Tri-Spark bites the dust two years in

Boo Hoo

Got to push my P11 uphill back to my house twice last week. Good thing I ride bicycles and am still an iron man. lol

Tri-Spark started crapping out on me off and on during a long ride. Not fun but made it home after a couple of full stalls. I thought I had garbage from my fuel tank in my carburetors. Pulled the not Amal carburetors and cleaned them out. They were clean. Checked for shorts and so on. Looked good so went for a short test ride. Lot of bucking and near stalls leaving stops after running nice for about 1 mile. So I turned around and headed back. The engine finally pooped out at the bottom of my street. Pushed it up the hill back to the house. It's not more than 1/8th of a mile, but it feels longer. When I got back, I tested the Tri-Spark and it tested like it was working, so I went through the guess/test procedure again and did another really short round a couple of blocks test ride. This time it died 1 bock further away from the bottom of my street. Much hotter day so it was a schvetty balls push back. Tri-Spark tested OK, so took the carburetors off again and they checked fine. Put things back together and fired it up. Seemed OK for a minute or two then started to misfire and I twisted the throttle wide open as if that would clean the carburetion out which is BS. The motor died as soon as I let of the throttle and the Tri-Spark is dead.

It has misfired off and on from day one. Dead after two years. Got it from Greg. It is the version prior to the TRI-0006. I use the Tri-Spark MOSFET reg/rect. Could be almost anything that actually killed the ignition. More guessing and testing the electrical system is in my future while I wait for a new ignition and coil to arrive.

If you are compelled to provide me with sage advice as if I was born yesterday and can't figure out which end of a hammer is the smart end knock yourself out. I await the wisdom.

Were you using the correct spark plugs?

I once had two bikes undergoing carb work, both had been running OK and both just started backfiring, coughing, and dying. I had filled them from the same gas can, got some bad stuff. Used some dry gas and all OK. It dawned on me after I yanked the carb bank off the CB750K. Normally I first think about what I did most recently that could screw things up, but it had been a couple of weeks and it didn't immediately dawn on me. Just an idea.

How are you eliminating coils as potential issue?

Tornado said:

How are you eliminating coils as potential issue?

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When I was using the Boyer I was using the same dual coil and the engine did not misfire. It started minor misfiring after installing the Tri-Spark. Ran it for 2 years with that same coil and the Tri-Spark hoping I wouldn't have to call a tow truck. Never did have to. Me thinks I was very lucky.

Das Testing: I have three 4.4 ohm dual coils. I tested with two of them installed on the bike using the Tri-Spark test function and then with a DVM. Simple stuff everybody should know how to do. Of course being an old fart I still had to google it to jog my memory.

concours said:

Were you using the correct spark plugs?

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For the last two test rides where I ended up pushing it home I was using NGK BPR-7ES plugs. I do like the look of those fancy plugs, but have never tried them.

gpzkat said:

I once had two bikes undergoing carb work, both had been running OK and both just started backfiring, coughing, and dying. I had filled them from the same gas can, got some bad stuff. Used some dry gas and all OK. It dawned on me after I yanked the carb bank off the CB750K. Normally I first think about what I did most recently that could screw things up, but it had been a couple of weeks and it didn't immediately dawn on me. Just an idea.

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Fuel was about 6 days old and I actually filter it into a 5 gallon jug that is clean before I put it in my tank. I did not stop and fuel up anywhere during the rides where everything went to hell. Water in the fuel would be similar as far as how it was misfiring goes, but this was pretty violent death and I'd cleaned my tank a few times before the last two test rides.

Are you aware ofthe Trispark bulletin regarding issues if using certain Podtronics R/R's due to electrical interference?

Tornado said:

Are you aware ofthe Trispark bulletin regarding issues if using certain Podtronics R/R's due to electrical interference?

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I've been using a Tri-Spark MOSFET reg/rect with the Tri-Spark ignition. I bought it at the same time I bought the Tri-Spark. I mentioned the Tri-Spark MOSFET reg/rect in the first post.

And yes I read that electronic interference note moons ago. Doesn't apply in my case.

I will be using a larger 3 ohm coil next go round with the ignition. 3 ohms usually produces a little bit more spark. However, I don't know how long they last because they probably tend to run on the warmer side. The small 4.4 ohm dual firing single coils I have barely get warm. The Tri-Spark ignition module on the other hand gets hot sitting in my timing cover. That's probably what did the deed. Maybe it needs air scoop.

Your near 5Ohm dual output coil is a good choice IMO, the 3Ohm coils do run hotter and have a bigger load

Re TriSpark, take a good look at the rotor and make sure both magnets are properly seated flush with the face, and with no wiggle at all. I got stranded and this was the cause, rotor magnet backed off. Matt at CNW sent a replacement even though it was easily fixed with a drop of super glue down the back of the magnet bore, but he did note this is not the first time he's seen this.

If this is the problem the symptoms will be exactly what you're describing, and the self diagnostic test will still show that all's well

TriSpark technical sheet states coils of no more than 3 Ohm for coils. You should contact Mr. Marsh if you feel the ignition is faulty, there is a 3 year warranty on them according to TriSpark website, so he might be able to do something for you.

acadian said:

Your near 5Ohm dual output coil is a good choice IMO, the 3Ohm coils do run hotter and have a bigger load

Re TriSpark, take a good look at the rotor and make sure both magnets are properly seated flush with the face, and with no wiggle at all. I got stranded and this was the cause, rotor magnet backed off. Matt at CNW sent a replacement even though it was easily fixed with a drop of super glue down the back of the magnet bore, but he did note this is not the first time he's seen this.

If this is the problem the symptoms will be exactly what you're describing, and the self diagnostic test will still show that all's well

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The Tri-Spark self diagnostics no longer lights the LED or fires the plugs. I would not have posted if the self diagnostics still worked. I would still be hopeful and wasting my time trying to make it work.

I checked the rotor when it first happened before all the fun bike pushing episodes. The rotor was steadfast not wobbling then. It's all coming off in a few minutes. I'll look at it again for giggles. Edit: The rotor is still tight as it ever was. Magnets are still good too.

Matt sells a 3 ohm dual firing coil that works with the Tri-Spark ignition.

I like the product. It just happened to crap out on me.

Tornado said:

TriSpark technical sheet states coils of no more than 3 Ohm for coils. You should contact Mr. Marsh if you feel the ignition is faulty, there is a 3 year warranty on them according to TriSpark website, so he might be able to do something for you.

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3 ohm to 5 ohm epoxy filled single dual firing coils was what I read in the instructions for the unit I have. Reading different specs at the same time. Edit: I think Tri-Spark would prefer people use two oil filled coils.

Greg and I do not see eye to eye.

Schwany, so far it seems you have tested coils and the TriSpark in situ. It might be an idea to do a bench test of the components, to rule out cable breakage or connector problems. Could there be a power supply problem causing the TriSpark not to run the self-diagnosis?

- Knut

mdt-son said:

Schwany, so far it seems you have tested coils and the TriSpark in situ. It might be an idea to do a bench test of the components, to rule out cable breakage or connector problems. Could there be a power supply problem causing the TriSpark not to run the self-diagnosis?

- Knut

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I've bench tested the coils a few times. Definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again with the same results expecting different results. I'm pretty good at insanity. I have not tested the ignition unit out of the timing cover yet though. That was what I plan to do today after I take the garbage cans out to the curb.

Thanks for the reminder. And Yes it could be a power supply problem. A dead short or loose crimp on the length of wire from the ignition switch to the ignition unit would certainly do it.

Fast Eddie said:

I know you don’t like folk posting comments like this Schwany, but in the interest of balance for other readers I’d like to state that I’m currently on 5th Tri Spark (I think) and have never had one fail. The Tri Spark and coil kit from Matt has been in my Commando since 2014.

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I've evolved and I don't actually care anymore. There's always somebody that has never had a problem with whatever it is somebody else has had a problem with. I was one of those people regarding the Tri-Spark until I wasn't. The cheap coils might have something to do with it, or I have a bullet connector I have not checked that has lost its crimp. I know I should solder those connections but the solder doesn't hold on the metal in some of the crimp style connectors.

Schwany said:

I've bench tested the coils a few times. Definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again with the same results expecting different results. I'm pretty good at insanity. I have not tested the ignition unit out of the timing cover yet though. That was what I plan to do today after I take the garbage cans out to the curb.

Thanks for the reminder. And Yes it could be a power supply problem. A dead short or loose crimp on the length of wire from the ignition switch to the ignition unit would certainly do it.


I've evolved and I don't actually care anymore. There's always somebody that has never had a problem with whatever it is somebody else has had a problem with. I was one of those people regarding the Tri-Spark until I wasn't. The cheap coils might have something to do with it, or I have a bullet connector I have not checked that has lost its crimp. I know I should solder those connections but the solder doesn't hold on the metal in some of the crimp style connectors.

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Ign switch itself can also be suspect.

Tornado said:

Ign switch itself can also be suspect.

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The ignition switch tests good and there is no issue with power getting to the unit.

I'm not going to bother with the out of bike unit test. Seems redundant and frankly pointless. I will be replacing it.

I have not tested the alternator yet. I better get to it. The alternator is 50+ years old.

Never looked but does anyone make a single fire electronic ignition for Norton? Now would be a good time for a product review from Schwany!

mean gene said:

Never looked but does anyone make a single fire electronic ignition for Norton? Now would be a good time for a product review from Schwany!

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Schwany doesn't even know that air goes in inner tubes. I wouldn't listen to anything he says.

Dual fire for a Norton is cheaper silicon logic and wiring wise. Would be too high end for me personally. Wasted spark gets the job done.

What Nigel said.

Stator does not test shorted out to chassis ground. It shows 1.3 ohms between the two leads. I actually have no idea what the ohms reading should be on a 50 year old stator. I'll have to do a running test for the stator and reg/rect after I get it running again. Battery shows over 14.14 volts sitting, but it's one of those scary LiFePO4 things that could start a fire and throw the earth off axis.

Schwany said:

Schwany doesn't even know that air goes in inner tubes. I wouldn't listen to anything he says.

Dual fire for a Norton is cheaper silicon logic and wiring wise. Would be too high end for me personally. Wasted spark gets the job done.

What Nigel said.

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Imported British air if you want it to be all original.

The entire electrical system checked out before I started this thread and checked out again with a more thorough nitty gritty examination. My P11 is wired really simply. Although I do have a tendency to prototype stuff to see if it works and used a lot of the same colored wire for the long runs. I'll be rewiring it this winter with unique colors for each subsystem, for lack of a better word. My wiring choices will not match anything Norton ever did color wise. It will still be very minimal and easy to ring out for someone familiar with wiring.

One thing I forgot to mention was I'm sure it was my fault that the ignition failed. Not the electromechanical part, but one really big No No with the TriSpark ignition timing procedure the first time I did it two years ago. I think but can't verify it due to loss of brain matter over the course of my existence that I turned the key to the ignition position with the plugs out of the boots while getting the pistons to the right position of 28 degrees BTDC and watching the Red LED on the TriSpark unit. I read the note about not ever doing that a little late. I never did that again, but it might explain the fact that it misfired once in a while and eventually failed after getting really hot. I can't come up with another explanation. The alternator as a whole could be out of spec, but I can't check that until it is running again.

Thanks for playing guess and test.

I'll get back to this after I install the new ignition parts.

Schwany said:

The entire electrical system checked out before I started this thread and checked out again with a more thorough nitty gritty examination. My P11 is wired really simply. Although I do have a tendency to prototype stuff to see if it works and used a lot of the same colored wire for the long runs. I'll be rewiring it this winter with unique colors for each subsystem, for lack of a better word. My wiring choices will not match anything Norton ever did color wise. It will still be very minimal and easy to ring out for someone familiar with wiring.

One thing I forgot to mention was I'm sure it was my fault that the ignition failed. Not the electromechanical part, but one really big No No with the TriSpark ignition timing procedure the first time I did it two years ago. I think but can't verify it due to loss of brain matter over the course of my existence that I turned the key to the ignition position with the plugs out of the boots while getting the pistons to the right position of 28 degrees BTDC and watching the Red LED on the TriSpark unit. I read the note about not ever doing that a little late. I never did that again, but it might explain the fact that it misfired once in a while and eventually failed after getting really hot. I can't come up with another explanation. The alternator as a whole could be out of spec, but I can't check that until it is running again.

Thanks for playing guess and test.

I'll get back to this after I install the new ignition parts.

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So you gonna change the thread title to "I Made My Tri-Spark bite the dust two years in" ?