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thanks mike, you gave me some ideas for an experiment. the bike fired just fine yesterday after taking care of the essentials, but once i had the enrichener on too long, it's possible the plugs got soaked. if the same happens again, i'll see if just pulling the plugs and wiping them dry changes anything.

i'd like to start verifying what the p/o did. what kind of gap do you guys run w/ the boyer?

i'll also try out the theory of revving it some while playing with the lights to see if anything changes.

i'm going to jump on searching some battery threads but if anyone has any suggestions as to brand/size/amp rating, i'm all ears ;)
 
yes, that's the one. i hope i didn't over pay, but judging from my car experience, it always costs more to build these things yourself. the p/o seems to be a "bike person" as you can see others in the background on his pics. here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 4629646376

thanks for the battery link... unfortunately the closest place in virginia closes at 6:30 and there's no way i'll make it during rush hour.

(looks like someone will be taking a 'detour' during lunch tomorrow :lol: )
 
those North Westerners are into their Nortons! That is possibly as close as you will get to a Dreer Norton as one can and you did well! He spent a small fortune or as I say ( before you know it, you've spent as much on upgrades as the cost of the bike - But they are WORTH It!)

Yeah, their hours are not the greatest.. Call them to make sure they have one in stock..... tho I believe they cross a few model lines...
 
If you are running the enrichener more than 1 minute or so, there is little doubt you are wetting your plugs. It needs to ridden and cleared.

Your battery may just need a good charge. If you don't have a trickle charger or Battery Mate, get one. They will bring your battery to full charge slowly and safely. Automotive chargers are too strong.
I charge all my new batteries before I use them.

I prefer Autolite Platinum tip plugs. I run AP 64's at 35 thou. The Platinums resist fouling and burn through the crud and take less energy to spark.
I realize the new Iridiums are even better and more trick, but I can buy the Autolites at the local discount parts house reasonably.

If you really want to learn how to tune the Mikuni, pick up a copy of 'Mikuni Tuning for British Twins' http://victorylibrary.com
Well worth it.

Cheers and Good Luck

Added: I use a the Battery Tender charger. I have no experieince with the Battery Mate.
 
tried to fire it up again today, no luck. checked and cleaned the plugs, drained 1/2 cup of oil from the sump... nothing.

this got me thinking, if the draining has to be done w/ certain frequency, have any of you guys ever used a fumoto valve on the drain? i realize there is a certain amount of (well founded) knee jerk fear reaction to these, but if it was positioned to the rear in respect to the bike's travel...
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
 
if the bike wet sumps that easily and that fast i say you may need to fix or replace your oil pump as it is letting to much oil through to fast while it is sitting i can have my bike sit for 5-7 days and have the smallest amount of oil in the sump and after around 1-2months the whole tank will be in the sump. so take a look at the oil pump correct me if im wrong people but that is the reason for wet sumping isnt it.
 
Unless the pump is physically damaged you can recondition using abrasive paper, a bit of plate glass and a few boring hours.
 
i'll address the oil pump issue later... btw, it's not that i'm averse to work on the bike, but rather that i have a car to take care of as well which has LOTS more work that's needed. this makes me a big fan of swapping instead of rebuilding. i'd rather put in a healthy pump and then at leisure rebuild the other one, rather than have the bike sit in pieces in the garage while i hurry the work... sooo... which supplier do you guys like to order from? i checked cnw's website but it's not listed there, maybe it's just a case of them not listing *everything* they carry.

by the way,
i live in an apt. building w/ somewhat restrictive regs regarding what can and cannot be done in a garage. a vehicle sitting in pieces is a nono. (you can already tell where my parking spot is from all the oil leaked from the car :lol: ) which is why replacing the pump is a much more appealing scenario.

i picked up the battery today so we'll see if that changes my startup woes.
 
ok, i've got some new developments (btw, should i start another "my bike won't run" thread or is it ok if i continue here?)

the new battery helped. lights were much brighter, bike fired up after 5-6 kicks, but still cannot hold idle. moreover, when i rev it past 3k, there was a constant popping/backfire as well as 1-foot flames coming out of the left pipe. :shock:
i didn't ride it, this just happened when stationary. either way, it did not happen when i first rode it.
(is that a bit rich? jetting issue or something more?)

also, when i get tired of kicking it, and turn the ignition to "off", the bike makes a pffffft (pssssst?) sound as if built up pressure was released

any ideas?
 
ok, will take a look at that. thanks.

by the way, when fishing the battery out yesterday, i've come across a little pouch w/ some spare fuses and plugs. (who knew there was a compartment for that stuff in there! :lol: -i really didn't know much ab these ;) )

so i will put in new plugs just to check if it makes a difference.

the plugs on the motor now have those little screw-on tips missing. even though the wires click onto the plug somewhat reassuringly, are those tips supposed to be on or off? (guess if the wires don't fit w/ them on i'll have my answer huh?)
 
}{arlequin said:
the plugs on the motor now have those little screw-on tips missing. even though the wires click onto the plug somewhat reassuringly, are those tips supposed to be on or off? (guess if the wires don't fit w/ them on i'll have my answer huh?)
Click to expand...

The photos you posted show NGK plug caps so you do not need the screw adaptors.

also, when i get tired of kicking it, and turn the ignition to "off", the bike makes a pffffft (pssssst?) sound as if built up pressure was released
Click to expand...

That could be the Boyer unit? When the ignition is turned 'on' or 'off' the Boyer causes a single spark at the plugs which will sometimes be enough to ignite some unburnt fuel mixture that happens to be the cylinders.
 
L.A.B. said:
That could be the Boyer unit? When the ignition is turned 'on' or 'off' the Boyer causes a single spark at the plugs which will sometimes be enough to ignite some unburnt fuel mixture that happens to be the cylinders.
Click to expand...
i see. like everything about these, i did not know that ;)

funny, i'm irrationally exuberant and optimistic about making this thing finally run well. just can't wait to ride it again. :D


what can i do about the idle? should i wait until the rest is sorted or can i play around with the setting? how?
 
Don't expect the bike to idle well until the engine is fairly warm.

You could try adjusting the (single Mikuni) throttle stop screw to give a faster idle speed?

You could also try adjusting the mixture screw but again the engine needs to be up to full operating temperature first.

Commandos can be a bit tricky to start, generally needing a fairly good kick to get the crank moving, a lazy prod on the kickstart won't normally do it!
But you should eventually master the technique of setting the throttle to the best position and kick starting it. My own Commando will sometimes appear quite 'lifeless' for a number of kicks, then roar into life on the next kick!
It's all part of the fun of Norton ownership!
 
I normally set my own Commando to idle around 900-1000 RPM at normal operating temperature. But (sorry to state the obvious here) the idle speed needs to be set sufficiently high enough so that the engine isn't constantly stalling! Which may result in your own bike (which of course has had some modifications) needing a slightly different idle speed?
 
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