Need to get the paint off of the cases.

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I used this to strip the head on my Combat. Somebody had painted it black with some really nasty paint at one time.

Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper (swingpaints.com)

It left the head looking like it was vapour blasted when I was done. Quick and very little elbow grease required.
Derek,
That stuff is the "real deal". I looked up the MSDS for it. It contains dichloromethane, aka methylene chloride. That is the substance that was banned in consumer products here in the USA in 2019. That should remove almost any paint. Did a quick search. As I feared, it appears that it's no longer available here in the USA! :mad: Next time I visit family in Buffalo, I'll have to make a quick trip across the border [assuming they ever open it again]. Might as well pick up some "real" Labatts beer while I'm there!

Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper MSDS
 
Derek,
That stuff is the "real deal". I looked up the MSDS for it. It contains dichloromethane, aka methylene chloride. That is the substance that was banned in consumer products here in the USA in 2019. That should remove almost any paint. Did a quick search. As I feared, it appears that it's no longer available here in the USA! :mad: Next time I visit family in Buffalo, I'll have to make a quick trip across the border [assuming they ever open it again]. Might as well pick up some "real" Labatts beer while I'm there!

Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper MSDS
There are some off-brand versions of the same stuff available. Bought some at our local hardware store this past summer to strip a desk for my daughter. Cheers!!
 
Methylene Chloride strippers are still available in the US, but no longer from retail stores. You can buy it as a chemical reagent, as here on Amazon

Amazon product ASIN B08K9FG4CC
or here from Mcmaster-Carr


but you may find that they will not ship to some states. It's also available to professional painters with a business ID, from suppliers like Benco


but again, you may find that they will not ship to some states.

In any case, there are now some alternative strippers available that are said to be just as effective as methylene chloride, but I haven't tried the newest ones yet, so can't verify that.

Ken
 
Methylene Chloride strippers are still available in the US, but no longer from retail stores. You can buy it as a chemical reagent, as here on Amazon

Amazon product ASIN B08K9FG4CC
or here from Mcmaster-Carr


but you may find that they will not ship to some states. It's also available to professional painters with a business ID, from suppliers like Benco


but again, you may find that they will not ship to some states.

In any case, there are now some alternative strippers available that are said to be just as effective as methylene chloride, but I haven't tried the newest ones yet, so can't verify that.

Ken
Methylene Chloride is more or less totally banned over here, which is both good and bad I guess. Sometimes you´d like to have something like that available, to really get things clean. But it´s nasty stuff.....
 
I used Methylene Chloride in my first ever job cleaning the paint booths at the Longbridge plant at weekends, only nasty if you do not take simple precautions, use it outside with glasses and gloves and long sleeved shirt.

Somehow I survived, the beer money I was paid was more dangerous. :eek:
 
Final question please. You stripped your cases of paint by what-ever means.
Did you apply a final surface coating of; rattle can paint, epoxy or powder coat?
As I'm not fan of rattle can paint, behold; https://molyresin.com/
Comes in black, satin black, gloss black and stainless
 
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Spray aluminum paint on a rag and wipe it on. Otherwise it goes on too thick. Use a Q-tip for getting into the fins.
 
Factory silver engine paint was bright silver with a little amber in it. Warmer and better than anything I've seen in rattle can, and I've done a lot of tests.

Most of my bikes have been rebuilt at some point prior to my ownership, and the factory paint has been blasted off.

I was lucky to find one very original bike last year still in good factory paint, and used it for reference.

The same silver was used everywhere: trans cases, engine cases, head, wheels, innner primary cover etc.

A difficult job to match up correctly.
 
i've always bead blasted aluminum (alloy) components, although i was never worried about an EXACT factory look. sometimes i would follow up with an aluminum etch cleaner, similar to PPG DX-533. i'd guess the factory painted the cases purely for cosmetics. if it were a porosity thing, i guessing the factory would seal or coat things from the inside. ?????
 
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Maybe to seal it up, aesthetics, maybe to prevent staining or oxidation. Difficult to say for sure the reason or reasons.
Need to find an old timer factory guy to ask.

IMO, whatever paint they used , it looked fantastic. Kind of had a sunset silver glow to it.

Same with the black frame paint.
The factory didn't just use straight silver or straight jet black. These silver and black paints were mixed with different toners, to achieve a specific appearance I think.
 
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i refinished the yokes on my triple tree - used a satin nickel finish. best i could tell, a dead match. satin nickel has a slight warm tone to it.
 
Stripper's the best way to go to leave the original metal surface undisturbed. Anything abrasive enough to take off tough paint is going to change the surface finish.
 
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