My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Now on to the crankcase. Installed bearing outers

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Also replaced the timing side cam bushing with the earlier (and later) bushing (below, PN 06.3020) that has a shoulder. The stock bush for the '72 did not have a shoulder, but rather a tabbed washer on the camshaft where supposedly the tab may brake off inside the crankcase.

Cam Bush sm.jpg


The '72 bush is flush on both sides of the crankcase shell, however the earlier/later bush seems to protrude a mm or so into the timing case (see arrow below). Is that a problem? Looking at pictures and videos on line, that seems normal and not a problem

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Oh, i found it interesting that although I thoroughly cleaned the crankcase shells (see post #220 on pg 12), when i heated up the shells to drop in the bearings, a bunch of old oil oozed out of the pores. It was amazing how much old oil is in there :oops:
 
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Who says Norton cases aren't porous. Last one I was blow drying and oil was coming thru to the outside LOL
 
If you try to buff out all the freckles while polishing these old sand castings you wind up with ... air where the casting used to be .
 
Spray can and brush-on clear coat can look nice for a bit but no matter how much you prep, polish and cure, sooner or later it will begin to yellow, some brands in a week, others a few months.
Always does. Especially on aluminum. Light and consistent temperature fluctuation will compromise it every time and I was using the Eastwood products not the hardware store offerings.
 
Lineslinger said:
Spray can and brush-on clear coat can look nice for a bit but no matter how much you prep, polish and cure, sooner or later it will begin to yellow, some brands in a week, others a few months.
Always does. Especially on aluminum. Light and consistent temperature fluctuation will compromise it every time and I was using the Eastwood products not the hardware store offerings.
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Try Shine Seal - formerly known as Zoop Seal . Simple wipe on / buff out chemical sealant . I am the world’s biggest skeptic when it comes to snake oil but this stuff does what it claims. It ain’t cheap but it works .
My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

My Es 2 eight years after Shine Seal treatment and I live within a 3 minute walk of the Atlantic Ocean in the corrosion capital of the universe .
 
That looks really good Richard, especially in the salty stuff...thanks for the information.

I used the clear coat on this intake manifold and set of heads and a few months later I am grousing and considering a teardown as the "guaranteed to remain clear" and "won't yellow" clear coat applied did exactly that. You can almost see the shading in the pic although I didn't notice it then.
I eventually moved to a clear powder coat with much better results.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
The beauty of Shine Seal is you can use it on rough surfaces ( see the crankcases ) by just wiping it on . For polished surfaces you wipe it on then rub out with the polish that is included.
It truly is that simple .
 
Wish i knew about shine seal before polishing all my parts :rolleyes:

Going through some old pictures, i found this (taken in 2005). I totally forgot about it

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
TomU said:
Wish i knew about shine seal before polishing all my parts :rolleyes:

Shine Seal is applied as a top coat after all polishing is done by whatever method you use to polish - it is not a polish in and of itself. Perhaps I didn’t explain well enough - my apologies for any confusion.
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80F in Feb allowed me to get some work done (thank you global warming)

Sent the cam to His Greatness Mr. Comstock for scrolling

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


It was weird that neither the cam nor the bush were scrolled
 
And put back together the crankshaft

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Weird pt II, the shaft halves would not fit back together the way i pulled them off. The two top studs were way out of alignment (started at the bottom). I banged the crap out of them and got one in, but the other was nothing doing. I flipped them and they went in somewhat easier. Still had to bang, but not nearly as hard. Wonder if they were split at one time and put back together backwards??? Good thing the bearings were the same because i had already installed the inner bearings on the crankshaft.

I also ground down the top 4 nuts. If i didn't, the nut would turn into the recess in the crankshaft. Originally, these were nuts/bolts, but you can only get studs now.

IMG_2569sm.jpg
 
TomU said:
80F in Feb allowed me to get some work done (thank you global warming)

Sent the cam to His Greatness Mr. Comstock for scrolling

It was weird that neither the cam nor the bush were scrolled
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How did you communicate with Mr C? Did you use the phone to get in touch?
 
Are you saying the inner flywheel is rotated ?
The flywheels I have seen did not have asymmetrical balance hole locations.
 
Time Warp said:
Are you saying the inner flywheel is rotated ?
The flywheels I have seen did not have asymmetrical balance hole locations.
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That and I would get it rebalanced after the fastener changes just for peace of mind. Maybe I'm over thinking it though.
 
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