My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Finally some nice weather. Got after the crankcase. Splitting was fairly drama free (did have to heat it up a little)

Before:

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After:

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And looks like the PO already replaced the main bearings (not the best workmanship though :rolleyes:)

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Regardless, I plan to replace them.

Camshaft looks pretty good :)

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SS mark

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Next: crankshaft and connecting rods
 
TomU said:
And looks like the PO already replaced the main bearings (not the best workmanship though :rolleyes:)

Regardless, I plan to replace them.
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Any markings on them as they don't appear to be the R&M/RHP 6/MRJA30 or FAG NJ306E 'Superblends' (or at least, the timing side one doesn't).
 
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The oil sludge in the cases were the reason I asked mileage, What brand of oil did you use I think I would change brand
 
mean gene said:
The oil sludge in the cases were the reason I asked mileage, What brand of oil did you use I think I would change brand
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So i've had the bike some 25+ years. Think i rode it 20 miles when i first got it then parked it to be never ridden again :(

I don't recall changing the oil when i got it and it was never changed when it was parked. I do not know if the PO ever changed the oil. I'm assuming infrequent at best based on the insides. The good thing is the camshaft looks good. The barrels look good, but i measured some out of tolerance values (i had low compression in the starboard piston). Greg Marsh checked them out and he thinks they are ok. Hopefully new rings will cure the low compression (fingers crossed)
 
Good cleanup.

Plan on a good breather solution. Maybe something plumbed into the back of the timing side like the JS Motorsports reed breather, or whatever Norton Combat owner aficionados feel is appropriate. Based on the dark coloring in the timing cavity and crank cases that motor needs better PCV IMO. You may also need to drill a couple of holes on the timing side case for better crank case ventilation and oil return. Lots of info on how to do all that on the interweb. Most of it on this website or pointed to from this website.
 
Schwany said:
Plan on a good breather solution. Maybe something plumbed into the back of the timing side like the JS Motorsports reed breather, or whatever Norton Combat owner aficionados feel is appropriate. Based on the dark coloring in the timing cavity and crank cases that motor needs better PCV IMO. You may also need to drill a couple of holes on the timing side case for better crank case ventilation and oil return. Lots of info on how to do all that on the interweb. Most of it on this website or pointed to from this website.
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That's the plan :cool:. Probably going with the CNW breather (believe that's a JC design)
 
L.A.B. said:
Any markings on them as they don't appear to be the R&M/RHP 6/MRJA30 or FAG NJ306E 'Superblends' (or at least, the timing side one doesn't).
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Markings were outward. Interestingly one's a FAG and the other SKF
 
So much for drama free. Trying to get the inner races off the crankshaft is becoming a real female dog in heat. I'm using a bearing puller but can't seem to get it between the race and the crank shoulder. I tried heating the race up and tightening up the bearing puller as much as i could but it wouldn't budge enough to get the puller behind the race. Any suggestions?

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
TomU said:
I'm using a bearing puller but can't seem to get it between the race and the crank shoulder. I tried heating the race up and tightening up the bearing puller as much as i could but it wouldn't budge enough to get the puller behind the race. Any suggestions?
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Bigger hammer.

You need to be fully BEHIND the bearing shoulder; the puller jaws need to be nice and sharp to get into that fine little crack.
 
TomU said:
So much for drama free. Trying to get the inner races off the crankshaft is becoming a real female dog in heat. I'm using a bearing puller but can't seem to get it between the race and the crank shoulder. I tried heating the race up and tightening up the bearing puller as much as i could but it wouldn't budge enough to get the puller behind the race. Any suggestions?

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Rent, beg, borrow , buy (expensive) an inductive heater - they have different size blankets that plug in to the unit . They work better than a torch because you can focus the heat on the race and not the shaft . Mick Hemings uses a broad chisel - flat side towards cheek - to get race started away from cheek to gain a little purchase for the jaws of the puller .
 
Richard Tool said:
Rent, beg, borrow , buy (expensive) an inductive heater - they have different size blankets that plug in to the unit . They work better than a torch because you can focus the heat on the race and not the shaft . Mick Hemings uses a broad chisel - flat side towards cheek - to get race started away from cheek to gain a little purchase for the jaws of the puller .
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Another tool i didn't know i needed :) and you're not kidding they are expensive. Cheap chinese crap goes for $200. Industrial induction heaters are in the thousands.

So before going that route, thought i'd give it another go. I ground down the puller ears and heated the crap out of the race. That did the trick :D but bent the crap out of cheap chinese puller.

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One error i was making was pulling on the wrong place (arrow in post #234). The face of the race is actually here

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


I think i have now broken down every single part on this bike.
 
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Every single part and bolt on this bike is now dismantled and cleaned. Only thing left to do now is buy parts :p
 


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