My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

TomU

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Good video by the master.

Thanks, but not sure that answered my question. A shim on either the kickstart shaft or the layshaft will do the same IRT maximizing gear engagement (by pushing the gears in). I'm concerned about pawl engagement, either inside the 1st gear, or in the inner cover. Shimming too much on either the layshaft or the kickstart shaft affects pawl engagement. To maximize pawl engagement on both 1st gear and the innercover, I think i'll split the difference and shim both the layshaft and kickstart shaft
 

TomU

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My opening remark would be to start drinking heavily and get all you tools out, Nortons use every faster in the book Whitworth, Metric and Us. Plus three or four thread pitches, DON'T mix them up.

Got all the tools out. Now on to the drinking :p

IMG_1163sm.jpg
 

texasSlick

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@TomU

Your work bench looks like mine!
But, I have you beat ..... I have 25 linear feet cluttered like that, .... or worse.

Slick
 

TomU

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Back to the rear hub. Here's where i left off

IMG_2017sm.jpg


Options:

1. Smooth out the indents and get on with life.
Pros: - Cheap and easy
Cons: -May affect speedo drive
- Looks like crap. Although it's hidden beneath the speedo drive, i know it's there
- Can't use upgraded bearing w/o machining

2. Replace the hub
Pros: - Gets it back to a condition before i butchered it
Cons: - Parts NLA (may not be an option if there are no used ones to be had)
- More costly (if i can find a used one)
- Same issue with the bearing

3. Don Pender MkIII hub (if available)
Pros: - Better cush drive
- Comes with upgraded bearing
Cons: - Not cheap
- Possible issue with replacing cush rubbers and sprocket which are both wear items
- Compatibility with drum brake?

Adding complexity to the above options are options on the final drive:

A. Stock 530 pitch
Pros: - Cheap
- Lighter
Cons: - More Maintenance
- Messy

B. 520 X-ring
Pros: - Less Maintenance
Cons: - Cost
- Can't go with Option 3 above (or at least i think)


Thoughts? I'm on the fence, but leaning to 3.A.
 

Time Warp

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If you put the threaded ring back in you might be able carefully peen the high alloy down and fill any low area's with JB Weld then smoothed.
The drive seal rides on that surface but it might not be critical as far as function.
Easy to fix if careful.
I re peened the 70 year old slot screws on my Sunbeam, just like almost new.
 

Time Warp

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- Can't use upgraded bearing w/o machining.

What does that mean ?
The hub uses two the same open single row bearings which are as an option available as a 2RS (sealed) version over the OEM felts etc.
 

TomU

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What does that mean ?
The hub uses two the same open single row bearings which are as an option available as a 2RS (sealed) version over the OEM felts etc.
I'm probably mistaken. Truthfully, i have not done much reading yet on this part of the bike :rolleyes:
 

Time Warp

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I'm probably mistaken. Truthfully, i have not done much reading yet on this part of the bike :rolleyes:

If you elect to replace the double row bearing in the front hub with a wider (and easy to find off the shelf anywhere) double sealed 2RS bearing that does need the centre/center spacer tube machining to suit the new bearing width.
(A standard width sealed bearing was not available in Australia and refused to use bearings made in you know where)

The one single row bearing (front) and two in the rear hub are straight forward replacements as a sealed 2RS item.

https://www.oldbritts.com/wheel_upgrade.html

You will find plenty of reading on Old Britts as above.
 

Lineslinger

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I loved the smooth rev's of my RX7, you know, from my other life.
May i refer you to halfway down post #1. I'm partial to rotaries (and Nortons). Would love to get my hands on a rotary Norton, but that will probably never happen stateside
I loved the smooth rev's of my RX7, you know, the car from from my other life, before wives and kids.
 

TomU

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and back to the gearbox.

Polished the outer cover. Wasn't trying to get a show finish and purposely left some of it's history

IMG_2058sm.jpg


Painted the gear numbers (not that you actually look at them)

IMG_2074sm.jpg


Assembled the ratchet assembly

IMG_2105sm.jpg


Inner cover. So far so good :)

IMG_2135sm.jpg


Outer cover

IMG_2142sm.jpg


Then went to try changing the gears. Frick %$@#! It wouldn't go into first :mad:. Also, there was absolutely no play in the kickstart shaft. Ok, time to pull everything out, AGAIN. At this point, i'm getting good at breaking the gearbox down and fully assembling it in 30 mins. Since i was reaching 4th but couldn't get to 1st, thought maybe the camplate was off a notch. I rotated it so the quadrant would go higher, but it was hitting the top of the window. Damn. Maybe i missed a cog on the camplate so i backed it out AGAIN and moved it a cog the other way. It was back to where it was before. So i'm thinking do i have to grind out the top of the window??? I decided to put the inner and outer covers on, without the gears, to just check it. It seemed to get to all the gears. Hmmm, maybe i lucked out so i put all the gears back in, and the two covers. It seemed to work. It wasn't silky smooth transitioning through the gears, but i was able to get to all the gears. I'll call that a win and will find out for sure when i get everything back together. As for the kickstart shaft, when i measured the end play the inner covers were only hand tight. This made about a .01" difference. I pulled out this much shim and it's now good.

Final

IMG_2148sm.jpg


Now what to work on next ????
 

TomU

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101 times out of 100 it will be the pawl spring......
Yeah, i think i tried 100 different bends on that thing. If i'm having trouble when it's all back togehter, that's what i'll tweak, again
 
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One golden rule to adhere to is it MUST NOT touch the pawl at all. Not even brush it, rest against etc. etc....
 

TomU

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One golden rule to adhere to is it MUST NOT touch the pawl at all. Not even brush it, rest against etc. etc....
Old Britts advises the opposite

I tried both and ended up putting back the original spring (had bought a new one). The orginal spring touches. If i continue to have problems, i'll bend it out
 
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If that's your spring I would suggest the gaps are way too big... Clymer suggests 0.010" minimum

From oldbritts site:

The ratchet spring (04-0038) is bent correctly so the legs DO NOT touch the gearshift paw (04-0024), but there should be just a very small but perceptible clearance on each side.
 
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It'll probably go into every gear like slicing soft butter with the engine spinning the gearbox mainshaft. If you have any shift issues when the bike is assembled, the cause usually is the primary chain adjustment is too tight.

You've got to get a gear selection pointer. Once you have one, you'll have a reason look down and admire your painted numbers. Looking good
 

TomU

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You've got to get a gear selection pointer.
Yep. May intstal it a gear off, just to keep me on my toes :)

Decided to go with 3.A in post #204 for those keeping score

Shit's starting to add up o_O

Buchanan wheels next. Thinking Excel WM3 front and WM4 rear with Conti Classic Attacks 100 and 110 (18")
 
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