My First Commando...

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All a bit different to start , till you figure what your bike likes .... the instructions above are a good starting point ... you may want to get new bolt and locknut for kick lever .... you want to rotate engine with lever till you feel you on compression, then giver .... make sure all connections are good too , first week with my bike I walked funny , now no problem one kickstart almost always ...
Craig
 
One can almost not flood a cold Commando, so if not staying running or firing again, next try slight throttle crack which helps kick speed some, then WOT. If no joy retard ign tiniest bit possible, a few times, till obvious wrong direction then creep back till firing starts and try closed, cracked then WOT. Often can be float level issue that does not allow pilot air screw to function so will rev up and die rev up and die if backing off throttle much. A chainsaw trick is heat sparkplug electrodes pretty good.

KS splines may be weakness feature and no good permanent solution but expoxy or welding or make own square pegged contraption that next guy can curse you over. Once the lever splines are semi buggered you will only be able to temporary get sem- stable a few kicks or even just step downs before buggering up the more difficult to renew tranny shaft. SOooo better shop for tough new lever then remove a few splines from the gap and widen gap at least hack blade wide then drill through factory thread hole to put grade 8 bolt in, after grinding head so its trapped by the kicker boss and seriously nip nut down to squeeze gap. Not permanent but lasts rather longer and easier to re tighten better till new lever needed.

I've got 2 KS levers to attach, both still in good shape and modified but this time will use low temp fast set JBW on outter splines and a torch to soften it for removal as much easier to wiggle off the sticky gummy JBW than shear though hardened worn edge lips and crooked crossed up splines. If not for the looks the best way would be tack weld around end face and grind or torch off for removal.

Oh yeah KS level is infamous for bothering pilot leg after a while so can grind peg stop flats to flip more inward beyond leg, Same stop on kick pressure unless grinding wrong flats.
 
I didn't see any reference to the plugs. I'd fit a brand new pair, if I were in your place.
And be sure you're not trying to make it run with full choke, which works opposite to most: The relaxed position is choke "on".
 
I pulled plugs and though black, not crusted with soot. Cleaned up easy and set gap. Overall, looked quite fresh. Recall seller stated he had run bike only 1-2 mths ago...so should be OK for a test start.

I've got some epoxy on the KS splines and gave a breaker bar torque. Will have another try once set overnight.
 
I had a chronic loose kickstarter on my bike. I solved the problem by grinding away a number of the spline teeth around the pinch bolt hole within the kickstart lever. Those splines that I removed had prevented the kickstart lever to clamp tightly around the circumference of the kickstarter shaft. Apparently the new Norton kickstart levers are built with those splines already removed. Here is a picture. If you look closely you will see that the splines around the pinch bolt hole are not there:

https://andover-norton.co.uk/img/imagescaler/1b/1bac0dbaf77f1c44c6d32e406d756ad8.jpg
My First Commando...
 
Hobot says grade 8 bolt , but I use a grade 12 bolt , with a breaker bar , super strength to it.
 
So KS now seems to be gripped decently with epoxy on splines. However, I do get a metallic clack every once in a while as the KS suddenly moves with low resistance...is that a problem with the pawl mechanism inside?

Still no more firing. Checked the plugs and do get both sparking but only when key is in the On with lights position, not in the ignition on without lights position. Knarckered switch?

Why are 1/2 my kicks so hard that my full body weight will not turn engine...bike tries to lean over on me from CenterStand? Is this indicating flooded clyinders?
 
Try not to be discouraged, we all went through the process ... remember for engine to start you need spark , air and fuel .... so far you got spark .... keep trying and eventually you will have the eureka moment ....
Craig
 
Thx. I just bought a seals kit for the carb and will be going through that tonight. Talked to a couple of shop guys locally...both confirm my issue with the full body weight on the ks is just poor technique, so i'll work on that I guess.
 
I might be able to have a look see at it on Saturday.
Best to leave the carbs together and on for now.
If it was running fine two months ago then it should run now.

Glen
 
Good man Glen , nice offer , try not to wear your leg out too ....
Craig
 
Silver lining to the ten and a half to one 1360- everything else is like kicking over a Honda 90

Glen
 
Far as starting, hobot's right. You can just about not flood the thing starting it unless it's already hot, but not to say to over do it. Also push the engine over with the KS until it just goes over compression stroke, you'll know. Then let the KS lever all the way back up, this gives you some impulsion. Give it some tickling if not already, choke won't hurt, some throttle. Then give it both barrels, a hard push, not really a kick and make sure you get the KS through 2 compression strokes. You should end up with the KS lever all the way down. It should start on the second compression, usually won't start on the first compression, at least mine won't unless it's hot but if I can get it over the second one it almost always starts. I actually have to get up on both foot pegs (off the ground) and give it all my weight and all my muscle to get mine through the second compression. Make sure the battery is full.

Some people start from the side but I have to start standing off both pegs.

I give up and figure something is wrong if mine won't start on the 3rd try. Once you figure the routine, they get easier, but it takes some experience. Actually I can't go much past about 4 tries before I have to take a break. You also have to believe it will start, there's some attitude in the process.

Grade 8 or better bolt for the KS is good, and also crank that honey down. You don't want to be eating the splines off that trans shaft$$$. Use a flat under the bolt head so it's a bit easier to torque. Use some anti-sieze. Doesn't hurt sometimes to ream out the non-threaded part where the bolt first goes in, sometimes they bind and makes it hard to tighten correctly or even tries to bend the bolt.
 
DogT: "I can't go much past about 4 tries before I have to take a break. You also have to believe it will start, there's some attitude in the process."
Well, at least I'm going for a good 4 or 5 minutes before huffing for O2 ;-) There may be hope for me yet!
 
Be carful about too many kicks, the action and the effort can cause blood clots in your leg, even if you are a younger guy.

Something is wrong, it should never take that many kicks to light off a Norton; I can't speculate on what may not be right, but it sure is easier to look for the trouble then to find it on the kicker.

You got the attitude part right-on. You may have noticed that NO motorcycle starts by itself (even ones with electric starters need to have their buttons pushed), but they like being taken for rides. You mount the motorcycle and exude the attitude that you are there to ride and will tolerate no lame BS. You locate your foot on the K/S use your left leg to propel you upward, cock your knee in the initial act of gravity, shift all your weight onto the right and begin un-cocking your knee on the way down to increase the force (the force is with YOU). The motorcycle senses that you mean business and that you might just do this again if it doesn't start, it works.

Single cylinder English motorcycles are the only species of the genus motorcyclum that are just as happy in the barn as on the road and like to bite you if you show the slightest bit of hesitation. I had to threaten my Victor with my 6'3" 250 pound son and an S&W 9mm Shield, it got the message.

Seriously, beware of too many kicks, it can kill you.
 
Still no more firing. Checked the plugs and do get both sparking but only when key is in the On with lights position, not in the ignition on without lights position. Knarckered switch?

Why are 1/2 my kicks so hard that my full body weight will not turn engine...

Something def wrong if ya can't get spark in the first "on" switch position.
I think DogT might be on to something with that battery comment, as the Boyers don't appreciate a low battery. If you're turning on the head and tail lamps, it gets worse. And along these lines, the low-battery condition with a Boyer can generate a vicious kickback on that lever. Having felt it twice now, I never leave my foot at the bottom. The second time it happened, it almost took my knee out.
At your weight, the motor shd kick around. Have you pulled the plugs to see if it kicks easily without them?
Are you absolutely sure you're not in gear (wheel turns freely by hand) when trying to start it? I only ask, 'cause I learned the hard way that it's possible to spend several minutes of maximum effort for no payoff doing this...:rolleyes:
 
One common thing that happens is the amal's idle jet gets clogged if fuel is left sitting in the carb for a prolonged length of time, so starting on the idle jet alone isn't going to happen... A trick is to overcome this obsticle is to tickle the bleeder til the carb pukes fuel, then hold the throttle up at half throttle and kick it. The bike should get a good gulp of fuel this way and if the ignition is working, it should roar to life. (but cough and die if you release the throttle since the idle circuit is blocked) it's worth trying. If it will start but won't idle, or run at low rpms, that's a possible sign of a clogged idle jet which is easy to remedy.
 
Something def wrong if ya can't get spark in the first "on" switch position.
I think DogT might be on to something with that battery comment, as the Boyers don't appreciate a low battery. ...:rolleyes:

Bike is on OEM points not E.I. at this stage.
Kicks much easier with plugs out....so compression is real.
Not in gear...freewheeling back wheel.
I suspect ignition switch needs some decarbonizing.
 
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