My First Commando...

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Tornado said:
Thanks...can you help me reach this Mr. Madass?

Cheers!
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Yeah he is here on this forum , his handle is madass , should be able to search him out ... also check out his SS axels , rear is one piece which is really convenient ....
Craig
 
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Of all the real and fictional cycles form Combat Bombs cream of the crop to degenerated E-start inspired > Spragthrop > dog kennel models nothing can test or satisfy like a fully fetter'd Commando testing your manhood successes to confront surprise stuck/broken/bent items to get the best highs of road going traces and orgasms to die for. Once all spiffed up you can look at it easier more often and longer more intensely than a naked movie star. Don't short cut, savor perfecting the most exotic mysterious pleasing complex competent cycle starter kit ever conceived by accidental cheap sake stop gap Norton genius in spite of criminal level parliament controlled management.

Realize factory Commando are over powered torequry thrusters into out of the blue out of control hinged terrors on let offs in sweet sweepers as can keep up with all but the the bravest on 200 hp elites in decent scenic roads to over the ton in opens so beware till sea legs wisdom limits programed. There are sad tales of first build to perfection finishes Commandos letting hair out a bit on tame rally rides ending up over the edge down long tumbles thrashing Commando and pilot bodies.

I consider Commando one of the most dangerous cycles ever sold but with some cheap simple mods makes best computerized race elites seem like corner cripples where it matters most.

Old vibe sensitive fart like sane sight seeing hobot highly suggest grinding front isolastic big cushions to narrow 1/4" rim so can linger savor low rpm speeds with magic flying carpet sense. Be aware than clutch wobble mostly comes form lingering in low gears slinging all lube out of AMC sleeve bushings so good habit to spring thru them for top gear ease and lube drip down perspiration.
 
Awaiting delivery of the old girl...should be here in a couple more hours. Went out to get stocked up on bike blood yesterday....found the Valvoline R1 product and grabbed some Royal Purple 75W90 gear oil. Still need to located some 140 for the swingarm, but I did manage to find a small volume push-type grease/oil injector which I think will work nicely for that job.

Although I am planning to take at least 3 or 4 weeks before actually trying to ride the bike (need to source/rebuild a rear wheel, get new tires, replace handlebars/cabling, rebuild brakes, chains etc), I would like to attempt an engine run in short order. What jobs other than fluid changes should I prioritize in order to just get her to engine startup stage? Bike is low mileage (apparently 8300 miles) and been well stored/cared for as a display piece for 30+ yrs. Apparently the seller did start it up just a few weeks ago when he first acquired it from original owner.
 
Don't worry too much about the proper weight of oil for the swingarm. Just make sure it's OIL, not grease. One of the problems is that if the previous owner used grease - which you probably won't know - is that putting oil in now won't help much. So unless otherwise verified, you should just pull the spindle/swingarm, clean everything with solvent (might need new bushings - check play), reassemble and add oil. The main thing 140 does is not leak as easily as lower viscosity oils but with good Orings and bushings, you can use engine oil and it won't leak to any noticeable degree and is always handy. I've been using engine oil for 10 years for that purpose and all I get is a film of oil around the pertinent seals, no actual dripping.

ONE THING TO NOTE: Depending on what you use to inject oil into the fitting on the swing arm, you can generate enough pressure to actually strip the threads on the long screw and blow the metal end-caps off the swing arm. That will require buying a new screw and maybe the end cap with the threads. It's also quite messy. It should not be necessary for me to explain how I know this! :)

FWIW, if it's been sitting all that time, the iso rubbers are shot so they will need replacement.
 
I have found that using one of those disposable single use enema bottles, available at any grocery or pharmacy, works perfectly to inject oil into the swinging arm spindle. Simply unscrew the small oil injection fitting and fill as much as it will take without dribbling out.
 
I hope it runs as good as it looks (condition)

The last red hot deal I located was a 2014 Triumph T100 with 154kms on the Odometer . This was in the fall of 2014. The seller purchased it new at International Triumph in Langley. This was in the Spring 2014. He rode it home to Richmond and went on three very short neighbourhood rides that summer.
In the fall he decided that he didnt like motorcycling and sold the bike at a 5 k$ loss:eek:
It still had the nubbies on the tires.

My friend bought the T100 and loves it, covered 11,000 kms with it on the first riding season.
Ive been getting free coffee for almost three years from that one.
The free coffee is starting to dry up now so I'm hopeful this Hi Rider turns out to be a worthwhile purchase:D

Glen
 
as far as the choice of rim size, i would go with an 18" on the rear just for the better tire selection and longer tire life.

I personally think that the rims are to narrow for the size of the tires. the front 4.10 ( 4.1 inch) is being squeezed onto a rim that only has 1.85" between the flanges. the tire vendors will not say it shouldn't be done, but they do give a preferred rim width for this size of tire and it is not WM2 (1.85).

i have ridden more modern bikes with 19" front wheels run 2.5" rims, Factory choices in 1973 represent the compromises of the factory , but not what i chose. hence if you have to replace rims, consider that CNW supplies their current models using a 18"x 2.75" wide rear rim

just my 25cents.
 
Bike is now received in very nice condition. Tank/covers paint likes absolutely perfect. Some dings/scraps on silencers. Rust visible on the sales ad seems quite superficial up close and should clean up well. Inside of metal tank looks to need derusting/sealing treatment. Single carb fitted is a 932 Amal...two more of these included in a box. A fresh battery was also presented, though not stock sizing. Will put it on charger and see how it performs....might just fit my T100 which does need renewing.
Gave whole bike heavy spray down with WD40 to start to work on surface rusted bits and halt further decay.
Found a couple of disconnected female spade connectors in battery box area...white/red and maybe white/brown tracer colours.
Tires look to have no mileage, yet are dated 1994.
Drive chain looking fresh.
More to come...
 
Guess I missed photo of your new Norton , maybe you can post one now that it yours .... belated good got U !
Craig
 
Tornado said:
Found a couple of disconnected female spade connectors in battery box area...white/red and maybe white/brown tracer colours.
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White/red and a white/purple in the battery compartment are unused extra wires.
 
Tornado said:
Bike is now received in very nice condition. Tank/covers paint likes absolutely perfect. Some dings/scraps on silencers. Rust visible on the sales ad seems quite superficial up close and should clean up well. Inside of metal tank looks to need derusting/sealing treatment. Single carb fitted is a 932 Amal...two more of these included in a box. A fresh battery was also presented, though not stock sizing. Will put it on charger and see how it performs....might just fit my T100 which does need renewing.
Gave whole bike heavy spray down with WD40 to start to work on surface rusted bits and halt further decay.
Found a couple of disconnected female spade connectors in battery box area...white/red and maybe white/brown tracer colours.
Tires look to have no mileage, yet are dated 1994.
Drive chain looking fresh.
More to come...
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Don't be in any hurry to seal your tank. Yes, give it a treatment to de-rust the interior (Phosphoric acid), but unless you have suspicion
that there is rust that may be migrating towards the outside of the tank, don't coat it. Do lots of research first. You can always coat
it later if a problem arises.
 
Craig said:
Guess I missed photo of your new Norton , maybe you can post one now that it yours .... belated good got U !
Craig
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Just signed up as VIP today...not yet sure how/when photo upload will be enabled. I'll upload some shots to my standard on-line photo gallery (called "PBASE.COM"; not P.Bucket!) and serve them to here....
 
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Here ya go:
From the original AD:
My First Commando...


My First Commando...




And today parked in my parkade next to the Triumph Bonneville Steve McQueen T100:

My First Commando...


The placard that came in the box states 1974 bike. What should I look at to confirm that? Matching numbers are 3131XX....which I believe falls in the "missing" range on most factory reports I've found so far.
 
Oh, checked the two extra carbs...one is a 930 while other is 932, while the bike has a 932 fitted. Looks like a 930 was bought to run as a single but likely too weak for the 850 and reverted to one of original 932's as single. Still weak I suspect (headers showing some bluing...lean condition).
 
Tornado said:
The placard that came in the box states 1974 bike. What should I look at to confirm that? Matching numbers are 3131XX....which I believe falls in the "missing" range on most factory reports I've found so far.
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The number (3131xx) basically confirms it to be '74 (850 Mk2) and the date of manufacture is often stamped on the headstock plate.

http://atlanticgreen.com/commandoframes.htm

http://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/CommandoID.aspx

http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Brochures/1970/74NortonBrochure.pdf
 
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Nice looking high bike , maybe keep that configuration ? Whatever you do with it ,once on the road , will be start of new affair .....
Craig
 
Craig said:
Nice looking high bike , maybe keep that configuration ? Whatever you do with it ,once on the road , will be start of new affair .....
Craig
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It's not something that appeals to me in current config and I fully intend to Roadsterize it. I may hang on to components for future collectors but more likely to sell them piecemeal to help defray replacement part costs.
 
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