My First Commando...

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There's either something wrong with your ignition switch or it is wired wrong.
Each bike starts slightly differently and with a single carb like you have it can be even more different.
Also with an amal concentric it's possible the pilot jet bush is blocked , I'd take a look at bushman's carb tuning secrets and give the bush a clean out.
Cheers
 
Yes, if those carbies have been sitting around for months with regular fuel left in them, they need cleaning. Especially the idle port(s). If you suspect bad wiring, hot wire it. Leave the charger on the battery when trying to start it, or better yet, check the voltage when trying to start, it should be a solid 13V.

If you have access to avgas, try it, it makes it much easier to start, but everything still has to be right. I'm assuming you've checked for a nice blue spark at the plugs. Other thing to do is roll it down a hill and let the clutch out in about 3rd gear. When I lived in Monterey CA, that's mostly how I started my 500BSA, I lived way up in the Presidio.
 
Realize the pot metal of carbs leaches out whitish/ fuel dye stained zinc metal crust by oxidation, more so with ethanol, that no organic solvent will touch, so only physical methods, strong corrosives or mild acid bath/boils remove it from surfaces and pilot jet passage.
 
Change the plugs, I've had more plug issues with my commando running a boyer than i care to think about, plugs look good and spark when no load, but fail when under compression.

RoadScholar said:
Single cylinder English motorcycles are the only species of the genus motorcyclum that are just as happy in the barn as on the road and like to bite you if you show the slightest bit of hesitation. I had to threaten my Victor with my 6'3" 250 pound son and an S&W 9mm Shield, it got the message.

Seriously, beware of too many kicks, it can kill you.
Click to expand...

Our panther kicked back, had to get the old man to put it away as i couldn't put pressure on my foot for a while.
 
She's Alive!
Many, many Thanks to Glen for coming over and given'er a proper kick! We checked for decent spark...battery a bit marginal and ig switch quite flaky making unreliable contact in run positions. But, she did start after a few tries under Glen's foot. Likes a bit of choke and crack of throttle. Once running, all seems great. No clatter from top end. Idles pretty well though pilot could do with clean out.

And even I was able to start her on my own after Glen left...second or third try.
 
After it's started, it's easy, not so much cold. Need to get your routine down.
 
The bike is in near mint condition overall.
I would guess the engine is fresh. It is very quiet mechanically.
A couple of ancillary details to attend to and then it should be a good 'un.
On the drive home I was thinking you might just bypass the factory switch with a common automotive toggle switch dedicated to the ignition circuit.

I would run a new fused lead from the battery to the toggle, then from toggle to ignition.
Put the toggle in a somewhat hidden location that is easy for you to reach from the rider's position.
Several of us have done this and it works fine.
Your existing switch seems to be OK for lights on.

Glen
 
DogT said:
After it's started, it's easy, not so much cold. Need to get your routine down.
Click to expand...
Ya...proper shoe-ige seems to important too...stiff sole with a bit of heel would help...like my proper riding boots instead of beater walking shoes I've been using so far.
 
Great news !!! the Affair begins now , enjoy every step of ownership experience, a real biker now , your friend Glen deserves a good cuppa !
Craig
 
Checking Walridge...they've got genuine Lucas ig's without key tumbler for $57 CDN...or replica's for $29. I will attempt dismantling and re-working of the original innards first.
 
As for engine...no visible smoke coming out tail pipes....so rings good I guess. We did get a fair bit of burn off happening from engine surfaces/headers as she heated up...more likely due to the WD40 I'd sprayed on heavily day one to start working on rust knock down.
I did make note the head has the much coveted RH10 insignia on it....a good one, Eh?
She idles quieter than my T100 Bonne...we could talk without shouting over the Commando engine idle. Top end doesn't clatter at all...unlike the Bonne which sounds like a sewing machine. Engine doesn't show a lot of movement while idling....iso's might be ok for a while more.
 
Well done for getting it running well done to glen for helping you , brilliant news
 
Trying to rework the old switch is a waste of time,just geta proper replacement.

if i was doing a modernization i would not get the lucas switch. it makes no sense to have 4 positions when we have to have DRL's anyway a switch with off - acc - on or even just off-on is good enough, but then you need to rewire with a decent fuse box.
 
I wish I had kept that picture I saw here years ago of a 90# woman starting a large Harley off to the side. She was way in the air and had all her weight on that KS with a determined attitude on her face. That's what it takes. Can't be pussy-footing around with a real machine. Then there's the video of the Italian dudes starting their Norton's with their loafers on. I've started mine in Crocks, but I doubt I'd do it again. There's also the video of Jim C. starting his injected one with his hand and hobot just 'thinking' it starting, so to speak. The hardest time to start it is when it stalls in traffic or when you're trying to show off.

Glad you got a good one, sounds like. When's the weather going to clear? I was in town today, it was 60F and all the bikes were out. But it's not even Feb yet.
 
Watched a video earlier of a South African guy start a ‘79 Yamaha XT500 3 ways one was by hand ......
Craig
 
A Commando may be the 'hardest' road cycle to kick over fooling many a HD with a kicker as the leverage make Hogs distinctly easier. Once ya get spark and fuel spot on should only take a firm step down nil body slam or kicking hard, so much so often starts before finishing step down so kicker beats foot to a short stop. Alas, humidity, moon phase can cause need of 2nd or 3rd kick but if no joy best double check key on, fuel on, plug leads attached, battery etc before 4th try.

2 Combats hand startable so cocky enough to yell out at clusters of parked HD crowds, "Hey Ya Know What a Thumb Commensor Is Known For"? cocked heads all looking as I step down for instant on at dead slow delicious sweet idle -" Lowering One's IQ!" then properly short shift to 4th tll block or 2 away 30mph around a bend to snick to 2nd leaving on cam Norton Snorts behind.
 
Had a peak into the swingarm spindle lastnight....sure enough, heavily packed with purple-blue grease. Scraped a lot out, hit it with de-greaser to get some dissolving action happening. Need to pull the spindle out to do more. What is the inside thread for a puller-bolt on that part? The rear wheel doesn't show much side to side play at the swingarm pivots...so seems the bearings are still in OK shape...would like to keep them going as long as possible (assuming bike has only the 8300 miles indicated on the clock).

Will be pulling the rear wheel off shortly to start making a new wheel from hub...will return to the spindle then.

To gain access to the lock bolt on swingarm cross tube, I needed to free up the mudguard and release the horn. Man that horn is a boat anchor! And since it didn't seem to be working (just clicked when hitting the button)....I might just swap it out to a modern Fiam FreewayBlaster...got one of those on my T100...huge improvement over stock and very loud indeed! Best $15 to spend on safety!
 
The internal spindle thread is 1/2 UNF. I bought a long bolt and taped a handful of heavy washers together to make up an effective slide hammer.
 
Once swingarm items removed and center set bolt removed should be able to hammer/drift right out as should not be lips worn to trap spindle with only 8-9000 miles, if can trust the odometer functional the whole time, which often isn't. Spindle threads are fairly fine and IIRC an engine/cradle through bolt threads in. Its traditional to pump grease in zerk as oil usually just leaks out only leaving the bush texture to retain enough oil, as designed, to prevent rusting as about only reason any lube needed here. If sticking with oil leaker design, this is maybe 2nd place RTV makes sense on Cdo's. The other is carb fasteners.

Should consider the collar clamp kit after grinding flats through hard spindle surface. A drilled through center bolt with a few inches of tube/hose on it to squirt oil in time to time is pretty simple and tidy mod if not injecting oil in zerk as intended to keep the leak prone mess going. Consider an engine 'honey' thick oil rather than thin 140 wt gear lube which is only about 50 grade engine oil.
 
Got the single Amal 932 carb off for cable replacement. Real tough time releasing choke cable end from the sluder...it seemed to be welded in place and some kind of fibrous material stuffed in the recess with it. Had the cut cable, pull it all out hold in vice and drill the end nubin free.
Carb fully dismantled and cleaned...pilot port looks clear-ish. New gaskets to go on. BTW, alu/silver paint from a previous owner on air cleaner/cylinder head seems to wipe of with any kind of solvent/WD etc.
Got the master cylinder and caliper off for renewing seals etc. Fitting MadAss' Resleeve Kit. Caliper pistons were tough to remove...badly corroded...SS set on order.
Though I have the WM3 alu rim SS spokes/nips, have been delaying that wheel build project...need some liquid courage..
 
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