I have more than a few comments on the performance of this, but I'll just put in my $0.02 on the really basics.
1) Breathing in an norton, from the factory setup, is....not that good. On a 750, the timed breather is a neat idea, but is not really a smart way to implement it. On the combats, the breathing problems and oiling problems together cause the whole system to be a little....funny. By the time the mk2/mk3 850's were around, the breathing made more sense but is still not great. To breathe a 360 twin correctly, you need two things: you need the crankcase to not be under pressure when the pistons go down (i.e. air needs to escape through an orifice without restriction at an average rate of 0.03 CFM per rpm), and you need to pull some partial vacuum when the pistons are going up (i.e. air needs to escape through an orifice with restriction at an average rate of 0.03 CFM per rpm). If you pull too much vaccum, you induce a fair bit of pumping loss at speed and also end or sucking in gas past the piston rings. On the stock setup on an 850, the crankcase is pressurized on the downstroke, and is connected to the timing chest via holes. The timing chest breathes through a 1/2" port at the old mag area. this goes to the top of the oil tank (at the filler) which acts as a catch can, with the outlet at the highest part of the oil tank (the raised middle section). The air from the outlet goes right to the stock breather into the airbox. On piston upstroke, the crankcase pulls a vaccum which then pulls air through through the timing case breather, which pulls air through the top of the oil tank from the breather. This leads to no real vaccuum when the pistons move up and due to the restrictions in the breather, there is also some crankcase pressure when the pistons are moving down. To solve this setup, the simplest thing one could do is check the flow out of the timing chest (using a reed valve or other style of check valve) and restrict the flow inwards. This can be done by punching a small hole in the reed valve or putting a check valve ~12" away from the timing chest and teeing off a small line before the valve to allow air to come in in a restricted manner. That should provide more than adequate breathing.
2) Your breather setup half makes sense (because the reed valves follows this method) but in some regards doesn't make sense. First off, because the airflow is not checked or restricted on that inlet, the crankcase pressure can also come out of that filter. This is not reall a problem because.... secondly, the filter requires that all the breathing go from the crankcase up the pushrod tunnels to the head, of which there is not any real unrestricted path. This means that when the crankcase tries to pull a vaccum, it's easier to pull gasses blowby past the piston than it is to pull 0.03 CFM per rpm of air through the cam follower tunnels, which is NOT what you want. Thirdly, at speed there will not be appreciable pressure at that filter to cause a positive effect. Ram air intake systems almost always end up being more of a gimmick than anything based on actual performance, especially when filtering/restricting the intake flow a lot. If the flow is restricted below the net air speed a small positive pressure builds up over the entrance which causes fluid to flow around instead of into the filter.
3) "Internally cooling" an engine is not going to happen reasonably as the internal castings of the engine are all smooth and don't really get a good convective cooling effect, and the thermal conductivity of oil is very very poor. All that's happening is you're letting in a lot of air with moisture from outside inside the engine to react with hot oil, which will end up producing a tan coloured goopy mixture anywhere the oil is allowed to foam. The concept that the hot breathed air inside the crankcase "contaminating" the oil is not a real concept as the breathed air from the crankcase is already interacting with that oil in regular engine running. All the breather gasses in the crankcase interact with oil inside the crankcase (at the sump) as well as in the timing chest before going to the oil tank. On the plus side of the stock system, once the engine heats up on a somewhat closed system the moisture from the air is removed, but if you continually introduce large quantities of outside temp air you're continually pumping moisture into the engine (not good).
Not to say the work isn't neat, but I think you should spend a little time looking at the details of why the bits work before making statements that your system is fixing problems.
