Mobil One

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Coco said:
Thanks. I'm basically learning as I go with the oil system and its connections. I'm going to tear into it this weekend and I actually have to install one of those anti-wet sump valves too.

There are two metal tubes side by side, running out of the engine that rubber oil hoses are connected to. I assume the one on the outside is the hose I splice the anti-wet sump valve into? That is what I gathered by looking at my parts book diagram.
Click to expand...

You are correct in saying that the outer of the two pipes from the junction block is the feed side and the inner should go back to the oil filter.

In terms of fitting a valve, have you borne in mind that the Mk111 already has an anti-drain valve in the timing cover ? It is a small plunger which is held by a light spring against the (thicker than previous models) conical rubber on the oil pump outlet.

This is really the correct way to do things as any oil pressure pushes the valve open which means there is no possibility of oil starvation which remains a fear with in-line valves. The only problems are that Nortons probably erred on the side of caution by fitting a very weak spring and the small bleed hole behind the piston is so small that the it can effectively "hydraulic lock" and remain open. I have polished mine so it is probably a little undersize but moves freely.

If the plunger is stuck "open", it will look as if it's not there. Under no circumstances should you put one on top thinking that it is missing. Investigate first or you'll seize at the very least.

I still have doubts about after-market valves. If the spring is too strong then there will be starvation and even if not, it is an obstruction in the oil line to avoid something which is at worst only an inconvenience. A half-way OK oil pump will not let your tank drain from one weekend to the next, even if your valve is sticking open.

Obviously, this is only my opinion but I think that it could be another case where it will do no harm to run it as it is and see if you have a problem before you start looking for a solution :) I haven't used my Mk111 for a fortnight and I've just checked the dip-stick which is still showing "full"
 
79x100 said:
You are correct in saying that the outer of the two pipes from the junction block is the feed side and the inner should go back to the oil filter.

In terms of fitting a valve, have you borne in mind that the Mk111 already has an anti-drain valve in the timing cover ? It is a small plunger which is held by a light spring against the (thicker than previous models) conical rubber on the oil pump outlet.

This is really the correct way to do things as any oil pressure pushes the valve open which means there is no possibility of oil starvation which remains a fear with in-line valves. The only problems are that Nortons probably erred on the side of caution by fitting a very weak spring and the small bleed hole behind the piston is so small that the it can effectively "hydraulic lock" and remain open. I have polished mine so it is probably a little undersize but moves freely.

If the plunger is stuck "open", it will look as if it's not there. Under no circumstances should you put one on top thinking that it is missing. Investigate first or you'll seize at the very least.

I still have doubts about after-market valves. If the spring is too strong then there will be starvation and even if not, it is an obstruction in the oil line to avoid something which is at worst only an inconvenience. A half-way OK oil pump will not let your tank drain from one weekend to the next, even if your valve is sticking open.

Obviously, this is only my opinion but I think that it could be another case where it will do no harm to run it as it is and see if you have a problem before you start looking for a solution :) I haven't used my Mk111 for a fortnight and I've just checked the dip-stick which is still showing "full"
Click to expand...

The anti-wet sump valve I bought is from RGM. I bought it simply because when my bike sits unused for a while, the oil seeps into the crank case so I assume the stock anti-drain valve is not really working properly.

The bike was sitting unused for quite a while so that is probably why the oil tank was very low. I bought the anti-wet sump valve right when I first got the bike and didn't know much.

I still don't know much but I know a heck of a lot more about the MKIII since I bought it and am starting to really wrap my head around everything.

You are probably right about not putting that valve in, so maybe I'll hold of on installing it and re-evaluate the scenario once I start riding the bike regulaly and keep an eye on the levels to see if it is draining.

If only it would stop snowing. :cry:
 
Coco said:
The anti-wet sump valve I bought is from RGM. I bought it simply because when my bike sits unused for a while, the oil seeps into the crank case so I assume the stock anti-drain valve is not really working properly.
Click to expand...

I totally agree withn 79x100 that it would be wiser to try and do without this extra valve if possible, although there are many owners who use them and have experienced no problems, -as long as you are aware that there could be a certain risk involved? http://www.nortonownersclub.org/technic ... etail.html
And there may be nothing at all wrong with the existing (850 MkIII) valve, as the oil will just take an alternative (although slower) route to the sump by draining along the oil pump shaft from the feed side to the scavenge side of the pump where it will then easily drain to the sump.
 
L.A.B. said:
Coco said:
The anti-wet sump valve I bought is from RGM. I bought it simply because when my bike sits unused for a while, the oil seeps into the crank case so I assume the stock anti-drain valve is not really working properly.
Click to expand...

I totally agree withn 79x100 that it would be wiser to try and do without this extra valve if possible, although there are many owners who use them and have experienced no problems, -as long as you are aware that there could be a certain risk involved? http://www.nortonownersclub.org/technic ... etail.html
And there may be nothing at all wrong with the existing (850 MkIII) valve, as the oil will just take an alternative (although slower) route to the sump by draining along the oil pump shaft from the feed side to the scavenge side of the pump where it will then easily drain to the sump.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I think I will just leave the valve in the parts box for now.
 
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