Mk111 Project

Also went to install a breather valve today but no room thanks to huge airbox and the 90 degree split in reed breather for return hose hookups. XS 650 or Motomite both no room . Ideas ? :roll:
 
Torontonian said:
Also went to install a breather valve today but no room thanks to huge airbox and the 90 degree split in reed breather for return hose hookups. XS 650 or Motomite both no room . Ideas ? :roll:
Click to expand...


Doesn't Comnoz make a sump mounted reed valve?
Pete
 
I just have the stock MK3 breather and no leakage issues. It doesn't seem worth the effort unless I'm missing something.
 
Correct , my new motor also had no leakage issues also , I think installing one would free up a wee bit of horsepower though. :?
 
I have the ones that bolt up where the breather tube goes; very effective and simple, ESPECIALLY if you already have the timing cover off. $25

Mk111 Project
 
It's getting cold now. Thinking of putting the choke lever/cables/springs/slides that I have in a bag back on the MK 111. Cannot find photos re: the correct side to fit , left or right of the handlebar to mount the lever. Which side ? Also my lever says CHOKE in big letters on it. Is this the proper MK 111 lever or what ? My 72 has a choke lever with no word on it. Thanks.
 
Torontonian said:
Also went to install a breather valve today but no room thanks to huge airbox and the 90 degree split in reed breather for return hose hookups. XS 650 or Motomite both no room . Ideas ? :roll:
Click to expand...

While quite the tight plumbing job, I was able to fit a motormite breather into my Mark III..
 
Well I'm sitting here depressed with a beer knowing I have to walk back to the local Supermarket before dark. This is to move the MK11 before ticketing . I made a boo boo and installed a wiring bleedoff for electric vests wrongly that earthed out on the raw end . Stoopid. Then looked at the fuse there to find a 35 A in there . I assumed that since the restoration was done so well the restorer would have known a 20 is equivalent /proper . Anyays I'm going to walk over now with tools to do a test sequence push with pen test light with the plugs pulled on head. Not too hopeful and will have to push it nearby for an overnighter in my parking permit area. Toronto makes more money from Permits and ticketings than any city in the world I'm told .
 
Well just got back home via Norton Power , good news... took about 10 mins. to walk over there (contemplating pushings strategies) , then only 20 mins. of dicking about to pull the plugs , brass-wire brush them up , rest them on head/head/rose nuts. Pulled ign. cover to wiggle the Tri-Spark wires about. Turned key and then kicked over to observe ( it's Canadian Halloween night-time now...) bright white blue sparks at plugs. Mood improved . Key to off. Put plugs back in then tickled carbs key on , for a thunderous roar kick to life. Several observers asking irritating questions (and endless compliments ) which I am getting used to by now. Went into Liquor store for Hardys Stamp whilst everything warmed up. Drove home. One thing concerns me , there is no test light feature on my Tri-Spark , which tells me this could be an early model of it. Surprised me as I brought along a pen. Another thing that concerns me is the smell of hot electronic components as soon as pulling the cover. When I first bought the bike I pulled the cover to smell that. The unit receives no air for coolings as I see it. Ideas :?:
 
Came back from a great evening over at Mayfair Plating E. end Toronto this evening Dec. 12 th. , 5 C. ride home , after changing out the restrictive exhaust system for the 750 type. Runs a lot better and sounds like a Norton should. Fitted a new Odyssey battery too after trimming off a few fins to squeeze it in there. Power.
 
Torontonian said:
Well just got back home via Norton Power , good news... took about 10 mins. to walk over there (contemplating pushings strategies) , then only 20 mins. of dicking about to pull the plugs , brass-wire brush them up , rest them on head/head/rose nuts. Pulled ign. cover to wiggle the Tri-Spark wires about. Turned key and then kicked over to observe ( it's Canadian Halloween night-time now...) bright white blue sparks at plugs. Mood improved . Key to off. Put plugs back in then tickled carbs key on , for a thunderous roar kick to life. Several observers asking irritating questions (and endless compliments ) which I am getting used to by now. Went into Liquor store for Hardys Stamp whilst everything warmed up. Drove home. One thing concerns me , there is no test light feature on my Tri-Spark , which tells me this could be an early model of it. Surprised me as I brought along a pen. Another thing that concerns me is the smell of hot electronic components as soon as pulling the cover. When I first bought the bike I pulled the cover to smell that. The unit receives no air for coolings as I see it. Ideas :?:
Click to expand...

I know a bit of your bike's history from when Mark owned it. As I recall, it came with an original Trispark when Mark bought it. That unit failed soon after he put it on the road (as so many did).

So, Mark then bought a new Trispark from Colorado Norton Works, and that should be what's in there now. That unit is new enough to be the version with a test button.

... Gregg
 
Torontonian said:
It's getting cold now. Thinking of putting the choke lever/cables/springs/slides that I have in a bag back on the MK 111. Cannot find photos re: the correct side to fit , left or right of the handlebar to mount the lever. Which side ? Also my lever says CHOKE in big letters on it. Is this the proper MK 111 lever or what ? My 72 has a choke lever with no word on it. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Choke levers are handed, the MK3 for some reason broke convention as it is left handed and thus should be on the left, not that it makes much difference. It may or may not have 'Choke' on it, I maybe wrong, but left hand choke levers with 'Choke' on them are no longer available new. I did look at converting a right hand choke which are readily available with the lettering to a left side, the way it is made makes it not possible.
 
Madnorton said:
Torontonian said:
It's getting cold now. Thinking of putting the choke lever/cables/springs/slides that I have in a bag back on the MK 111. Cannot find photos re: the correct side to fit , left or right of the handlebar to mount the lever. Which side ? Also my lever says CHOKE in big letters on it. Is this the proper MK 111 lever or what ? My 72 has a choke lever with no word on it. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Choke levers are handed, the MK3 for some reason broke convention as it is left handed and thus should be on the left, not that it makes much difference. It may or may not have 'Choke' on it, I maybe wrong, but left hand choke levers with 'Choke' on them are no longer available new. I did look at converting a right hand choke which are readily available with the lettering to a left side, the way it is made makes it not possible.
Click to expand...

The Mk.III choke lever was normally left handed, and does have "CHOKE" on it, however, the vast majority of period photos show a left handed choke lever but fitted on the right side of the handlebar.
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Broch ... LineUp.pdf
Mk111 Project
 
My 74 850 had the choke lever on the left side of the handle bars from new , but here in Aussie land it doesn't get cold enough to use chokes, I took my choke lever off as when i always park somewhere some one would see the lever with the cables pulled up and would push the lever to the closed position, poeple just can't leave things alone, same as if you have a bit of dust on your tank someone has to rub their fingers through it.

Ashley
 
Well fellow Nortoneers I've gone and done it again. Brace yourselves. Shattered Left Ankle from Kickback. :roll: Morphine drip with super new antibiotics started. Drilled stainless pins into shin to support bridge down to foot where a rod goes through the foot above the heel. Rotator cup shattered. Tibia snapped. 4 Anodized clamps (of the highest quality) tightens to the pins and then rod to hold everything in place temporarily , until the Big operation on Monday where the scaffolding and rod will be removed. Pieces of bone will be wired together temporarily to hold in place to fit the Titanium plate. After screwing in the plate the wire(s) are removed and the whole mess sewn up. Everyone here at Toronto Western has been great. Professional and cheerful. Others around me have it way worse so this keeps my spirits up , that and visitors so anyone in Toronto area after Monday 20 th fell free to visit. Fell Pavilion under Peter Gillett. I just learned how to self-inject blood thinner to the abdomen. And swallowed 2 Mg of Hydromorphone which makes pain tolerable. It's made in a lab so no more wonderful glow and no chance of addiction. Damn chemists. Using a borrowed computer here and will stop now for my doctor exam -assesment soon then 2 lovely ladies take me home for 4 days rest before the big one. More from home soon and I bet you all want to know HOW it happened etc.
 
Certainly you didn't break it kickstarting a MkIII with electric boot?

Sorry to hear it. An injury like that and I'd have to declare bankruptcy or be prepared to be a gimp the rest of my life; I have no bloody insurance apart from the VA which is APPALLING.

Here's to your quick recovery, and hopefully no significant reduction in your ability to enjoy your Commando.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top