MK III cush drive rubbers

Almost finished with the refresh of the MK III and ready to reassemble the rear cush drive, And back came the memories. Does anyone have a secret on how to do this without using every curse word in the book? Thanks in advance. :x

It's been my experience that if you leave those words out, it'll be much harder :wink:

P-80 emulsion Temporary rubber assembly lube. I think you can get samples enough for free? I haven't tried it, I don't have the cush drive.

Dave
69S

I glue the pads cut from used tire cases into the hub holes with or w/o the drum pegs inserted. This keeps the pads stable and spaced enough the pegs can slip in out nicely to install wheel on hub. I put a folded rag or such under the tire to rise it to align with axle level then push wheel into drum, then get the spdo-drive set on then its big spacer, the slip in long axle then follow the shoe centering nip up sequence. If the spdo axle spacer is too tight to deal pretty easy then its worthwhile to spread swing are end a tiny bit. Getting the tire supported to right height is the main trick to ease the job at home or side or rain cold road flat after dark.

hobot said:

I glue the pads cut from used tire cases into the hub holes with or w/o the drum pegs inserted. This keeps the pads stable and spaced enough the pegs can slip in out nicely to install wheel on hub. I put a folded rag or such under the tire to rise it to align with axle level then push wheel into drum, then get the spdo-drive set on then its big spacer, the slip in long axle then follow the shoe centering nip up sequence. If the spdo axle spacer is too tight to deal pretty easy then its worthwhile to spread swing are end a tiny bit. Getting the tire supported to right height is the main trick to ease the job at home or side or rain cold road flat after dark.

Click to expand...

The Mk.3 rear wheel has a completely different cush drive assembly and the speedo drive is on the opposite (drive) side, so none of the above applies.

cjandme said:

It's been my experience that if you leave those words out, it'll be much harder :wink:

Click to expand...

I was able to leave a few of them (curse words) out, but of course they were replaced by repeats (see scientific theories - conservation of cursing theory).

Actually getting most of them in shouldn't be hard, it's only getting the last ones in when the two parts aren't easily rotated with respect to each other.

For me that last stage involved a combination of rubber lube (I would hope any good auto parts store will have it - in my area about $25 for a gallon, useful for mounting tires, handling squeaky bushings, etc.), the aforementioned cursing, some attempts of prying at the aluminum bits to make space, and using metal putty knives to try and get the blocks started followed by rubber mallet bashing.

Bottom line - most of it I think most people could handle, but if you not good at cursing, I'd take it to a pro.

Would there be a problem using silicone lube to do this?

ugh I only think of Commando as all 750's, sorry about the rest of ya woes.
There is research that shows cuss words actually does raise one's pain threshold, some what, for a short time, so helps to repeat and repeat and repeat till the air turns blue.

Am I the only one who has never had a problem doing this?
I mean...... it ain't like it's Rocket Surgery or anything!

Mark said:

Am I the only one who has never had a problem doing this?
I mean...... it ain't like it's Rocket Surgery or anything!

Click to expand...

No, it's easy after the first couple. Clamp the wheel down to something immovable, Put all the rubbers in on one side of the paddles. Then use a large pin spanner to turn the center hard against the rubbers you just installed. Now slide the rubbers in on the other side of the paddles. Last time I did it I used a small can of gasoline to dip the edge of the rubbers in so the new rubbers would slide easier. If the rubbers are used they will fall in. Jim

Thanks guys, I did use a silicone lube the first time around. They were as hard as a rock and seemed way too thick and i don't remember if they were factory ones or copies. I have sourced ones this time around from Norton. I'll try the above this time around, Thanks again, Chuck.