master cylinder for clubman bars

Sep 20, 2006
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I have mounted new clubman bars on my 72 Commando ,looks cooler and is better to ride now!!
But the master cylinder will not fit because it is too long, so I am looking for an alternative . Does anyone here have any suggestions for some good replacements. ?
I have found a nissin master cylinder on eBay ,is anyone here familar with that type?
Mr Purple, I'm seeing a spacial relationship problem here..

Try I might, I can't find a stock MCylinder to measure.. But a magura
measures 3-5/8th" forward from the throttle with the hose connection being straight out, in-line with the bars.. so you would need to add a bit for the banjo bolt ... The nissan (same one as one that keeps showing up on eBay) is only 3-1/8th" with the hose end connection opposite from the bar and perpendicular to same bar... REALLY compact!

Both come with dog leg levers the magura is natural aluminum, the nissan black anodized ..

THEN you can have a matching dog leg lever for your clutch which should give you a two finger pull on both sides..

Either of these units ARE the way to go OR I should say STOP! if your have the bar length
fireflake purple said:
the master cylinder will not fit because it is too long.....

Why? Send a picture...maybe I rode for ten years with another type of Clubman bars...mine were Magura...still have them, but I changed them out because I found some adjustable Clip-ons that relieved the pain I used to get in the wrists from leaning too much of my weight on the hands in that position.....but my original Lockheed brake fit on the "M" bars, as they are called here...maybe we are talking about different bars....could be. A bit of bar extension would also do the trick, any good welder with a WIG can fit an inch on the end of each side and that should be enough....welding area would be under the grips and not seen anyway......
master cylinder for clubman bars

Here you can see how it looks like! I could not find any magura mcylinder on ebay ,but they had a brembo from a streetfighter ,which maybe would fit?. Any idea of where to by one ,or is ebay the place :?:
You're going to get twenty different responses from twenty different people as to which brake will be the right one....I use the old Lockheed and with a new steel flex hose, it works 100 % better than it did with the old Norton rubber hose.....but that isn't up the par with what some of the guys expect of thier brakes....and I have'nt tried any other types, so I can't gudge if they are better or not.....but.......there appears to be enough place on there for the just need to get the 2 inches of clamp/switch area on that bar, the nose of it can hang out to the front. Personal decision in the long run.
Indeed...I had not assumed correctly, when I mentioned my "M" bars being the same.....mine have I think less area to play with than yours, and certainly are shaped differently...mine are real M shape....that bring the hands into a clip-on like position.

Ebay will also get radically different opinions...but I have had good luck with it, do check on sellers ratings before bidding though...

Magura is the maker of the bars I have. Whether they make brakes...lord knows.

I figure the Lockheed might fit...with a bit of fiddling...but I could be wrong... :wink:
yes ,the old lockheed fits ok ,and i can use it . Then i save lots of money.
What do you mean with the new steel flex hose you have on yours? can it be modified?
If you change the master cylinder to a more modern type then you will probably need to change the hose, as most modern (or European type) master cylinder units will have a metric hose thread fitting, otherwise you will probably have to use an adaptor (3/8" UNF x metric) to keep the original hose.

If you need to change the brake line because of the fitting then you may as well fit a complete new stainless steel braided line, and if the master cylinder will accept a banjo instead of the original straight fitting then you are likely to gain some more space.
Thanks for many good advices :!: What size of line do i need? and will i have to change the steelpipe from the caliper too? ..probably since that also is inches.

By the way (when i suddenly have so many Norton specialists on my hand); It seems like my bike is charging too much ,about 17V @3000 RPM ,and it cause the battery to overheat. According to my Norton riders manual it is the zener diode that is faulty. What do you think? any experiences?
It does not matter if you keep the rigid caliper pipe or not as the fitting to the rigid pipe or caliper should be 3/8" UNF, so you will still need a line with the correct lower fitting (or adaptor).
Most people would seem to choose to remove the rigid pipe and fit the braided line directly to the caliper.

If you are getting 17 Volts then I would expect the Zener diode to either be faulty or not earthed/grounded correctly.
fireflake purple said:
What do you mean with the new steel flex hose you have on yours? can it be modified?

That's all I changed on mine, with a new good set of brake pads.....hoses are to be gotten from most dealers, but I got mine from RGM....

Suddenly, after twenty five years of no brakes....I had brakes that actually worked. I'm sure some of the fancy setups will give you a bit more, any increase in stopping power is an investment in extending your life...but I have been thrilled with mine and I don't ride to the limit anyway, so I feel safe with what I have now. Course...I felt safe with no brakes for all those years too...if that tells you something.... :wink:
I have a braking setup where I can get the front tyre chirpping with 2 fingers.

Lockheed racing caliper
Ferrodo pads
Stainless pipe
Lockheed Racing lever on stock unmodified master cylinder

All parts from RGM