Kick start won't clear muffler?

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staticmoves

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New rebuild and kick start will not clear muffler. ( bike is 72 combat )
I have heard of this being a problem, any thoughts on how not to wreck new mufflers with kick start. ( kick start is original, pipes and pea shooters are new ).
Just about ready to kick bike over for first time in 30 plus years.

Thanks in advance ..... 8)
 
Loose the exhaust nut, the pipe to muffler clamp and the rubber mount in back. While pushing the pipe in towards the frame along the bottom, tighten the exhaust nut and subsequent item all the while keeping the pipe tucked.
 
pvisseriii said:
Loose the exhaust nut, the pipe to muffler clamp and the rubber mount in back. While pushing the pipe in towards the frame along the bottom, tighten the exhaust nut and subsequent item all the while keeping the pipe tucked.

Thank you I will give it a shot right now.
 
Ok. How tight should you tighten these exhaust nuts, I don't want to strip threads. Oh and I have the new bronze nuts.
 
I had the same problem on my '72 Combat. The old pipes have a little jog right where they weld into the collar that goes under the exhaust nut. The newer pipes don’t have this jog and should flow a little straighter. There may be a difference in how tight to the frame the old pipes would go in comparison to the new pipes. When I tried my stock kick starter I could see no way to make up the inch or more that it interfered. What I did was go with the later model kick starter. ('74-'75 I think.) You still have to squeeze them in good and tight but it works out. Another thing I did was shorten one of the spacers out at the rear mount where the rear foot pegs go. This sort of relaxed the strain which was pulling the pipes toward the outside.
 
staticmoves said:
Ok. How tight should you tighten these exhaust nuts, I don't want to strip threads. Oh and I have the new bronze nuts.
Medium grunt. But a revisit will be in order 2 or 3 time after running. I am scared to over tighten but I need them just tight enough so they don't come loose. This is relative to your particular grunt facter. If possible, bring the wrench that you use along for the first few trips.

I burnt the tip of my shoe off reaching out to spin the left side back on while riding to get home after I installed my new bronze nuts.

As far as pipe clearence goes, tightening the exhaust nut on this side does favor bringing the pipe in towards the frame. How did that work out.
 
pvisseriii said:
staticmoves said:
Ok. How tight should you tighten these exhaust nuts, I don't want to strip threads. Oh and I have the new bronze nuts.
Medium grunt. But a revisit will be in order 2 or 3 time after running. I am scared to over tighten but I need them just tight enough so they don't come loose. This is relative to your particular grunt facter. If possible, bring the wrench that you use along for the first few trips.

I burnt the tip of my shoe off reaching out to spin the left side back on while riding to get home after I installed my new bronze nuts.

As far as pipe clearence goes, tightening the exhaust nut on this side does favor bringing the pipe in towards the frame. How did that work out.

Your method seems to have worked ,...... Though I still have to remove the zip ties.
 
I just had the same problem and no matter how I tweaked things it still would not clear. This included grinding down the mounting bosses on the new muffler. It looked like if you moved the inner mounting plate towards the wheel with a washer you might add some space but possibly foul the swing arm. I ended up buying a new EMGO arm that has a longer offset, about 3 inches versus the 2 inches of the stock one. However, the splines on the new arm were not cut deep enough and I really had to drive it on. Hoping it won't strip. Seems to be a problem with these aftermarket mufflers. I don't have a stock set to compare them too. Also, seems like the same people selling the mufflers are selling the offset kick start arms.
 
pvisseriii said:
staticmoves said:
Ok. How tight should you tighten these exhaust nuts, I don't want to strip threads. Oh and I have the new bronze nuts.
Medium grunt. But a revisit will be in order 2 or 3 time after running. I am scared to over tighten but I need them just tight enough so they don't come loose. This is relative to your particular grunt facter. If possible, bring the wrench that you use along for the first few trips.

I burnt the tip of my shoe off reaching out to spin the left side back on while riding to get home after I installed my new bronze nuts.

As far as pipe clearence goes, tightening the exhaust nut on this side does favor bringing the pipe in towards the frame. How did that work out.

Well it is still grazing the muffler, but the kick start makes it past, but still scratches.
 
Seems that all of the after market pipes don't have a bend that tucks them in enough. Most of us have had to change to a MkIII kick start arm. That will cure the problem.
 
Tighten the exhaust rings while running at about 4000 rpm. According to ludwig, they'll almost tighten themselves. Make sure to put some high temp anti-seize on them, I think hobot uses talcum powder? I have some nickel anti-seize that's good to 2400F. Otherwise, get a 2-3' extension and tighten them when hot. Don't over do it though. You'll feel them tighten up with a long bar though.

Can't help with the KS, I don't have pipes in the way of mine.

Dave
69S
 
I had mine all tightened and everything perfect. I rode then retightened. Then I went on a long ride and halfway through the day I noticed they must have moved and I got a nice little scratch :(

I came home and re retightened and it has cleared since. Totally sucks but frmo my experience you are gonna have to check them a few times!
 
Mine was in a similar spot. Just took it off and bent it out a half inch. Hasn't hit since.
 
DogT said:
Tighten the exhaust rings while running at about 4000 rpm. Otherwise, get a 2-3' extension and tighten them when hot. Don't over do it though. You'll feel them tighten up with a long bar though.

Dave
69S

+1 with tightening while running. I use a red paint marker, with a dot on the head and the nearest lug on the exhust ring and keep an eye on movement.
CNN
 
Had the same issue, did alot what was mentioned in the post's. Wasted alot of time "dinking around" adjusting, etc. Ordered a MKIII kick lever from Andover, solved the problem. Buying one for my 73 project in the near future.
 
illf8ed said:
Seems that all of the after market pipes don't have a bend that tucks them in enough. Most of us have had to change to a MkIII kick start arm. That will cure the problem.

All headpipes aren't created equal. Some tuck in better than others. Some will allow the kick lever to hit no matter what you do. The MKIII kick lever is definitely better though. Here's a comparison of the right side pipes from an original Norton set to some aftermarket cheap-o;

Kick start won't clear muffler?
 
I have the MK3 levers on both of my bikes. Lots of clearance. I recently purchased one of RGM's folding levers. I like it the best. Plenty of clearance. A bit longer and it folds nicely out of the way. So far the only downfall is It will not work with rearsets.
Kick start won't clear muffler?

Kick start won't clear muffler?


Kick start won't clear muffler?

Kick start won't clear muffler?
 
Here's a comparison of the right side pipes from an original Norton set to some aftermarket cheap-o;

I don't think this is exactly true. The left pipe may be from an aftermarket cheap-o or it could be just a later model pipe. Norton went to the "non-jog" pipes in '73 or so. I believe it is true that the little jog at the bushing does help it tuck in tighter but the later pipes also did a good job of getting in close at the lower frame rail level. I prefer the later model pipes because they just have to flow better!

I cant wait to get my pipes up and on the left so I can use my old style powder coat black kick starter!! :o
 
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