1972 750 Hi-Rider

quawk

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Have just joined and hope I'm posting to the correct section. For my adult lifetime have admired and wanted one of the old British bikes from back in my youth. Have an opportunity to purchase a 1972 750 Hi-Rider. Certainly not my first choice of models I'd like to have. With the oddball apehanger handlebars, and the flared up seat tail seemed like kinda a miscue by Norton, but I realize they were hoping to cash in on the chopper craze of the late 60s. The bike is still in possession of the original owner, has 12,000 miles, and like a million other bikes was "running when parked". Has been parked and not run or ridden since the early to mid 80s. Most of the chrome is in poor shape, the original pea shooter mufflers are gone and were replaced with some unmuffled turnouts, and the owner had installed 3" or 4" over fork legs and the handlebars were tweaked from a fall over at rest. UGHHH. Can members here give me their thoughts on what a fair price would be for this year and model bike in the condition I've described. Something else is in all the other pics I've seen of these bikes, the tank and the side panels were always paint matched, but the tank on this bike is orange, and the small side panels are black. The owner, who seems like a straight shooter to me, claims he bought it new that way. I've owned and worked on many other bikes of many different brands over the years, but never had a British bike of my own. Would appreciate any thoughts, advice, or input from other members with more experience than myself on these bikes.
 
Welcome This forum can answer any questions you have. Jump in the waters fine!
 
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I bought a Hi-Rider in a non-running state a couple of years ago. It was missing the seat but the chrome was perfect. I paid $1800 but it had no title so I had obtain my own. I would say no more than $1500 but know that you have an expensive journey ahead of you.
 
I am looking for this bike sold in Kankakee last month # 20M3S 147045

1972 750 Hi-Rider
1972 750 Hi-Rider
 
Yorkie said:
I bought a Hi-Rider in a non-running state a couple of years ago. It was missing the seat but the chrome was perfect. I paid $1800 but it had no title so I had obtain my own. I would say no more than $1500 but know that you have an expensive journey ahead of you.
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Yorkie, I appreciate your response and viewpoint on what the bike I'm looking at might be worth. That's kinda what I was thinking, but the owner is wanting more than that. Did you have much trouble finding a replacement oddball seat? If I were to do the deal to obtain this bike, I'd consider replacing the flared end seat and hi-rise handlebars with more conventional Commando bars and seat. I'd guess others may have taken this route with these Hi-Rider models. Can I ask how much time, trouble, and $$$ did it take to obtain a title for your bike? I've posed this question on a mid-fifties Chevy forum that I belong to, and there were many responses and stories that were all over the place about this topic. There was much conversation and debate about what guys had to do and go through to obtain a title for cars that were purchased without one. It seemed to vary considerably depending on what state you were in. I personally avoid buying any untitled vehicle/bike that I intend to register/plate/ drive on the road.
 
Welcome. 🍻

Tell us about your skill set, and how much of the restoration work you can (and WANT) to do yourself.
I had always wanted a roadster. It came along.
 
I will also ask about availability and cost if I were to have to replace the wheels on this bike that I've posted about, a 1972 Norton 750 Hi-Rider. At one time this bike sat in a shed or barn that had no solid floor, and unfortunately the wheels, or at least the rear wheel, had sunk somewhat down into the dirt with the expected rusting and corroding result. I would consider getting decent used wheels, but are such wheels even out there to be had, and if so, what would be the price range for one.
 
quawk said:
Have an opportunity to purchase a 1972 750 Hi-Rider. Certainly not my first choice of models I'd like to have.
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You don't have to keep it a Hi-Rider.


quawk said:
I would consider getting decent used wheels, but are such wheels even out there to be had, and if so, what would be the price range for one.
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It sounds as if it needs a new rim (and spokes).
 
You will also need to go into the gear box to replace the lay shaft bearing . You will need a set of Whitworth British wrenches and a retainer ring tool for this job . Also a clutch removal tool as an essential , so budget a bit for this , it's affordable . As LAB said you can make the bike any way you want to suit your body type and riding style . Get a manual , it's positive ground too .
 
concours said:
Welcome. 🍻

Tell us about your skill set, and how much of the restoration work you can (and WANT) to do yourself.
I had always wanted a roadster. It came along.
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Don't want to sound like a braggart, but I feel I'm a very accomplished and first rate mechanic. I have over 50 years of experience working on many different bikes, and everything else for that matter. I made my living for 10+ years as a lift truck mechanic, and learned a LOT during that time. I have a couple of Suzuki RE5s (rotary engines) that were all new ground when I took them on and a couple of other oddball bikes. I'm well past retirement age but did an LS engine swap into my '57 Chevy as last winters project. I'd be doing all work on this bike myself, although I'm humble enough to realize I'll be having to do a lot of learning, and asking for advice to figure out something new and different to me.
 
My 71 and 72 brochures show matching, painted side covers on the Highrider.
Interesting enough the 1971 SS shows Black side covers with Yellow tank.
Who knows how it came from the factory, dealers can also change things around.
Wouldn't surprise me he bought it that way.
It may also be a 1971, first registered in 72 as a 72.
All kinds of crazy things happened back in the day.
BTW, the tank is probably Fiberglass, or Glassfibre as they say across the pond, which creates another set of issues
with the modern fuel.
Not uncommon to find these parked for decades. As long as oil was left in them, it's probably OK.
They have a way of 'Self' preserving themselves.

WE live in a wondeful time. Most everything is available for these rides.
I'd be more concerned about the title.
 
quawk said:
Don't want to sound like a braggart, but I feel I'm a very accomplished and first rate mechanic. I have over 50 years of experience working on many different bikes, and everything else for that matter. I made my living for 10+ years as a lift truck mechanic, and learned a LOT during that time. I have a couple of Suzuki RE5s (rotary engines) that were all new ground when I took them on and a couple of other oddball bikes. I'm well past retirement age but did an LS engine swap into my '57 Chevy as last winters project. I'd be doing all work on this bike myself, although I'm humble enough to realize I'll be having to do a lot of learning, and asking for advice to figure out something new and different to me.
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Great news.

You know the drill.

How much sweat, how much equity.

Enjoy the ride! 🍻😎🏁
 
Torontonian said:
You will also need to go into the gear box to replace the lay shaft bearing . You will need a set of Whitworth British wrenches and a retainer ring tool for this job . Also a clutch removal tool as an essential , so budget a bit for this , it's affordable . As LAB said you can make the bike any way you want to suit your body type and riding style . Get a manual , it's positive ground too .
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Torontonian, Thanks, as these are the kind of tips and advice I'd be wanting and needing if I were to purchase this bike. By the way, I have no idea what the "lay shaft bearing" is in the gear box, and I have no Whitworth British wrenches in my tool box (never have had a need for them) or retainer ring tool or clutch removal tool, but these are things I'll need to consider if I were to proceed with this bike purchase. Thanks to all members that are responding with advice.
 
You then know you need the tools. No tools and you are done for. Yes, an expense but not a big one.
Handy to have a good resto book or Mick's DVD just makes life easier.
Your questions here are welcome.
 
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If you get the bike cheap enough I would build as a Roadster, bigger tank, better seat, lower handle bars and as for the wheel replace them with a set of alloy rims, as for the lay shaft bearing if the gears are changing ok then maybe just flush out the old oil and replace with new, as for the lay shaft bearing I think it was the later 850 models that had the problem of that bearing blowing, I could be wrong but my mates that had early 750 Norton's never had problem with the lay shaft bearing.
No matter what if the bike has sat for so long it be wise to pull it apart to service everything that moves, full pull down of the primary and replace the chains, pull the clutch apart for a good clean and service, make sure the charging system is all good, as for the motor might be a good idea to pull the head, check the bores in the cylinders maybe replace the rings and a light hone if the bores are good.
No matter what you will have to spend time and money getting it all working again, only if you get it cheap enough, if it needs a full rebuild then you be looking at big money and adding up grades to make it a reliable bike again, so you will need big pockets of money thrown at it.
So, depends on how far you are willing to go with this bike, spend $20k + at it to bring it back to a fully restored bike, or spend 1/2 that to just get it going and make it safe to ride, or spend the money on a Norton that is already going or been rebuilt or restored as no matter what you will have to spend money.
But it be good to save an old bike from the grave and why was it left to rot in the first place, lost interest, something major happened to it, or the owner thinks it's going to be worth more as it gets older, well they do but not in the condition that you have described as it seems it was just left to rot away, shame really, but as I say be a good project bike if you are willing to save it and bring it back from the dead, if the owner is asking too much for it and not willing to drop the price, then walk away from it, another better one will come around that will not need as much money thrown at it I am sure of that.
There are a lot of folks on here who have brought barn fine Norton's and I am sure they will give you some idea in how much you will spend to fully restore, but then some might be ashamed to admit on how much they really spent.
Lots of things to think about, the FG tank will have to be replaced with a metal one, as well think of the time and money that you will need to bring it back to life, so only you can decide that in how far you are willing to go and how deep your pockets are.

Ashley
 
ashman said:
If you get the bike cheap enough I would build as a Roadster, bigger tank, better seat, lower handle bars and as for the wheel replace them with a set of alloy rims, as for the lay shaft bearing if the gears are changing ok then maybe just flush out the old oil and replace with new, as for the lay shaft bearing I think it was the later 850 models that had the problem of that bearing blowing, I could be wrong but my mates that had early 750 Norton's never had problem with the lay shaft bearing.
No matter what if the bike has sat for so long it be wise to pull it apart to service everything that moves, full pull down of the primary and replace the chains, pull the clutch apart for a good clean and service, make sure the charging system is all good, as for the motor might be a good idea to pull the head, check the bores in the cylinders maybe replace the rings and a light hone if the bores are good.
No matter what you will have to spend time and money getting it all working again, only if you get it cheap enough, if it needs a full rebuild then you be looking at big money and adding up grades to make it a reliable bike again, so you will need big pockets of money thrown at it.
So, depends on how far you are willing to go with this bike, spend $20k + at it to bring it back to a fully restored bike, or spend 1/2 that to just get it going and make it safe to ride, or spend the money on a Norton that is already going or been rebuilt or restored as no matter what you will have to spend money.
But it be good to save an old bike from the grave and why was it left to rot in the first place, lost interest, something major happened to it, or the owner thinks it's going to be worth more as it gets older, well they do but not in the condition that you have described as it seems it was just left to rot away, shame really, but as I say be a good project bike if you are willing to save it and bring it back from the dead, if the owner is asking too much for it and not willing to drop the price, then walk away from it, another better one will come around that will not need as much money thrown at it I am sure of that.
There are a lot of folks on here who have brought barn fine Norton's and I am sure they will give you some idea in how much you will spend to fully restore, but then some might be ashamed to admit on how much they really spent.
Lots of things to think about, the FG tank will have to be replaced with a metal one, as well think of the time and money that you will need to bring it back to life, so only you can decide that in how far you are willing to go and how deep your pockets are.

Ashley
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Ash in my experiences with these old machines the original lay shaft bearing can go south at any time , regardless of the year of production or model . My 70s locked up and I don't think it was the dreaded Portuguese 850 bearing . Modern bearings are the way to go , I'm a big proponent of a roller bearing upgrade , as you know . NJ203E. TVP2 . C3 FAG X-life .
 
Any bearings can fail at anytime even new upgraded bearings, just luck of the draw, I am running a tapper roller bearing on my lay shaft and has been in there for a very long time now, I was at a shop down Sydney that built race bikes and the tapper bearing on the lay shaft was design for quick change the gears for different tracks, the shaft and gears could be pulled out together and the owner gave me the new bearing, well it's been in my gear box since 1984 and still in there today, I don't know if it is a quick change as I never needed to change my gear ratio, since 1984 but I only been back inside my GB to replace worn KS pawls 4x then replaced the kick start gear where the pawl engaged that was worn and caused the pawls to wear out quick and a broken KS shaft, that was over 30 years ago.
But any bike that has sat in a barn for a long time it would be wise to go through everything, gear box included.

Ashley
 
My first Commando/first classic bike/Second bike ever was also in Hi-Rider configuration with a dealer optional fatty type 16" rear wheel. Got it knowing it was possible to convert to any of the other types (Roadster/interstate). Nearly all parts are available, either NOS, new Reproduction or original used.
My bike was a '74 850 with ~8k miles on the clock...had been restored back in the '90s as the story went. Paid about $7200 CDN for it as a runner but needed a fair amount to get it road ready. Immediate spend was on Roadster re-pro seat (Wassell in UK, ~$240 CDN), Roadster bars ($50), Brake 1/2" re-sleeve kit (from Don Pender aka Madass140 on this site), a new rear wheel (also from Don) that I laced up myself, various gaskets and seals, rear brake shoes, carb & clutch cables and brake hose at roadster lengths (new from Andover Norton). Had it on the road within a month or two. That was 6 yrs ago. Since then spent way, way more on further improvements/major work etc. Put nearly 20k miles on the clock in that 6 years.

BTW, the clutch compression tool can also be homemade out of a bit of 3" wide ABS drain pipe cap and a few bolts/washers/nuts. Mentions this in the Haynes Manual.
 
Having owned two period Triumph 750 Bonnevilles and 750 and 850 Norton Commandos, I'll take a good Norton Commando every time. After a few years, I sold the '71 750 Commando back to the friend I bought it from (after he recovered from his divorce). Not long after that, the notorious layshaft bearing failed--he made it home safely.

I stood tall for my 850 back in 2018; the good news is the engine was (and is) in great condition. It was a rider, but the gearbox needed work, including replacement of the famous bearing. New premier carbs, Tri-Spark ignition, aftermarket front disc brake, new paint (tank and side covers) and elbow grease resulted in a great machine that is easy to start and is safe to ride. Just under $10k US invested.
No regrets at all. :)
 
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