It lives!

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74JohnPlayer

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The JPN started this morning for the first time in 30 years, and after repairing all the damage I showed earlier. Ran it just long enough to check oil circulation, adjust timing, and synch the carbs. I can't get over how smooth and quiet this thing is. Now to let it cool completely, then time for the first retorque and valve adjustment. The Pazon ignition works great.

Stu
 
Yes, Yes, video, and no geezers please.

Dave the geezer,
69S
 
Don't forget to re-tighten the exhaust header nuts too ...... Go work ! I can't wait for the video to come out .. :D


Tim_S
 
Good going! I can't wait to see it with the body work. I used to drool on one of these in the shop window of a hick town gas station.
 
It died

Well, now the fun starts. I put around 10 miles on it, just shifting through the gears with easy acceleration and keeping the revs moderate. It ran great. but about halfway through the ride, the idle rpm started decreasing. I didn't catch it quick enough at a stop sign, and it died. My right leg is toast from trying to kick start this beast, and I couldn't get it running again. Had a mile walk home to get my pickup and retrieve the bike. Now to investigate whether it's a spark or fuel problem and get it sorted.

Stu
 
Sorry for your grief. I'm sure you will sort it out.

How do you get the bike in the back of a P/U? It must take a couple of guys, I could not do it myself. I am worrying about getting stuck and not able to get the bike back without a big hauling fee. Was even thinking about a trailer with a ramp from Tractor Supply for $550, but I have the P/U.

Dave
69S
 
Dave, A milk crate with a 2X12X12 piece of wood screwed on top makes a stable step you can carry along with you. That and a folding aluminum ramp will make it possible to self load your bike. You would have to see it done and than practice it with some friends around but it is doable. Just a bit of momentum and some sure steps do the trick.
 
Stu, Anyone who has an Amal carb to take care of needs a #78 drill bit epoxied into a plastic red tube that comes on a brake clean can. Just pull your air screw and use the bit to clear the idle jet that .016 hole will plug up very quickly and often with just some dust in the tank. Use the brake clean can with the red tube to clear the drill sworf and put the air screw back in. About once a year does the trick.
 
Whoa, $2600 will buy a lot of towing for the baxley. It looks real nice though. I've looked at the ramps, and at my age, I would need about 2 or 3 friends to help push it up about 3' without dropping something. I was hoping I could get this 'S' into the back of my P/U without much help? But that may be asking too much for me. Maybe I could fasten a come-along to the bed somehow?

Sorry to kinda hijack this thread, but yes, hard starting is usually the idle pilot, look at Swooshdave's kickstarting video. I have a piece of guitar string in 0.016 that seems to do the trick on the carbs, except the left one seems not to respond too much to the pilot adjustment. But it starts fine.

Dave
69S
 
Dave, Get the drill much better.And a ditch to pull up to works wonders with loading you do have ditches?. Work smart not hard.
 
Several years ago at Mid Ohio I saw a powered dealie that scissored from the back of a pickup to the ground but I'll bet it was not cheap!

I'm lucky, I have a rental-place close to the house that has Baxley trailers.

Vince
 
Yeah, you're right. There are plenty of ditches around here in the Blue Ridge. Just don't want to be driving into any of them. I try to be smart, but it doesn't seem to always work, unless there is physical labor involved. I guess it helps to have 4WD on the P/U so you can get it out of the ditch!!

Thanks,
Dave
69S
 
I push my dirttracker up a ramp using a milk crate, It weigh's 300lbs. A small ditch work wonders. I've also read than on flat tappet cam's it's good to keep the rev's up above 2000 so as not to gall the cam, old or new after a long lay off.
 
A ditch, pile of dirt, embankment, or anything that you can pull up to so you get a level run at the tailgate will make it much easier. As the man says, work smart not hard!

I have a utility trailer with a drop tailgate that I use for hauling bikes. It's much lower than a pickup and I can load my bike by myself. The tailgate ramp is a little short for the Commando though, it just barely has enough ground clearance to make it up with out hitting the sidestand bracket.

Here's a photo. I use a Pingel chock to hold the front wheel:

It lives!
 
Tell me about the trailer Debby. I really don't want to be pushing my S into a P/U bed and then trying to get it off even if I have plenty of hills here.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Sorry for your grief. I'm sure you will sort it out.

How do you get the bike in the back of a P/U? It must take a couple of guys, I could not do it myself. I am worrying about getting stuck and not able to get the bike back without a big hauling fee. Was even thinking about a trailer with a ramp from Tractor Supply for $550, but I have the P/U.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...
Dave,
I have a Rampage Lift in the bed of the truck. It'll suck any bike up to 1,000 pounds right up into the bed with no fuss. http://www.rampagelift.com/
Probably not economical for most guys, but I used to use it for business.

The bike's problem was due to a hung float or maybe the float needle - the right float bowl was empty. I flushed about a half pint of gas through it with the bowl drain removed, and that fixed it. Rode it about 15 miles today, and all's good except for a minor seepage from the primary. I can live with that for now.
So now I can concentrate on repairing that fiberglass monstrosity of a fairing. One thing I can say about the JPN, it's probably the most uncomfortable and ergonomically screwed up bike I've ever ridden. Glad it's not mine.

Stu
 
Glad to hear you got it sorted, Stu. I rode a JPN a couple of years ago at the Mancos rally. It's a fairly aggressive position, very stretched out and pretty low clipon position. My Duc 998 (now sold) actually seemed less aggressive but my body couldn't handle that very well either.

Dave, the trailer came from Home Depot and was intended for hauling around riding lawn mowers and such. I added the chock and had some tie down hooks welded in, and it's worked well for me. I don't know if they still sell them, but you should be able to find similar trailers at the trailer dealers. It's pretty light - my RAV4 tows it easily and when I park it at home I just unhitch it and roll it to where I want it. Much easier than trying to back it up! :roll:

Debby
 
Tim_S said:
Don't forget to re-tighten the exhaust header nuts too ...... Go work ! I can't wait for the video to come out .. :D
Tim_S
Click to expand...

I would lockwire the exhaust header nuts ;-)
 
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