Installing pre-MkIIa Air Filter

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Messages
11,520
Country flag
Here's how I did it. Took me less than 3 minutes. Next time I'll get more step by step pictures.

Installing pre-MkIIa Air Filter

The first trick is to take the Airfilter Adapters off the carbs. Put the rubber airboots on the adapters. It's pretty easy with these parts off the bike. :mrgreen:

Installing pre-MkIIa Air Filter

Screw the adaptors and boots on the carbs. Peel back the airboots just slightly to access the notches on the adapters and tap them tight. Now put the front plate on and work the boots through the holes. It's not difficult as you can reach in and work the rubber into place.

Installing pre-MkIIa Air Filter

Then by pressing in (forward) on the front plate, the boots deflect easily, you can slide the filter and perforated plate in sideways from the left side. Then by working the front plate you can continue to slide the filter in. Once in place you can fit the screws.

I'm sure this is similar to what other people have posted but I thought I'd share my version.
 
That's pretty close to the way the Riders manual describes it. Not much description in there though! There are two flats in the rubbers that should face each other when they are installed. Also the perf metal screen can really abrade the heck out of your nice shiny primary covers so I put heavy cardboard over them for protection.

On mine there are two small sheet metal screws (which do nothing) on the air cleaner front plate. I think they used to mount the 12V electric socket there on earlier models (?). I clipped them off so they don't stick out as far. This helps when rotating the air filter and screen into position.

Russ
 
I tried that method too, just like the riders handbook. There was too much scratching of the oil tank, nothing would stay in it's proper place like the rubbers on the carb. But then I have the central oil tank, maybe that makes a difference? I also cannot get the filter and ham can perforated thing in from the left with 'S' type exhaust. For me, I'll stick with taking the carbs off, it too doesn't take that much time and there is no trying to hold 3 or 4 things all at the same time. My 2 cents.

Dave
69S
 
Dave, that's also close to my method minus the 2 hours of swearing at god for making a norton and throwing multiple tools down the driveway or against the wall and kicking the neighbors cat.
 
britbike220 said:
Dave, that's also close to my method minus the 2 hours of swearing at god for making a norton and throwing multiple tools down the driveway or against the wall and kicking the neighbors cat.

What makes you method different or do you just have something against God or cats?
 
The book says from the right side, not the left. The ignition switch is in the way on the left (on most models). I too have resigned to remove the carbs from the head rather than risk hacking the frame with the sharp edges of that accursed air box.

I spent over 3 hours with my buddy last night trying to mount his carbs to a 72 Combat. His damn rubber bellows must be old or something because we couldn't bend them enough to get the manifolds to line up with the intake ports. We elected to mount the manifolds first, then try to stuff the lips of the bellows into the airbox front plate holes going round and round with a small screwdriver trying to poke things home. What should have been a 5 minute job took 5 beers.

Great design (NOT).
 
maylar said:
The book says from the right side, not the left. The ignition switch is in the way on the left (on most models). I too have resigned to remove the carbs from the head rather than risk hacking the frame with the sharp edges of that accursed air box.

I spent over 3 hours with my buddy last night trying to mount his carbs to a 72 Combat. His damn rubber bellows must be old or something because we couldn't bend them enough to get the manifolds to line up with the intake ports. We elected to mount the manifolds first, then try to stuff the lips of the bellows into the airbox front plate holes going round and round with a small screwdriver trying to poke things home. What should have been a 5 minute job took 5 beers.

Great design (NOT).

Ah, good point, my ignition switch is no longer attached to the airbox back plate. No wonder it was so easy! :mrgreen:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top