I have made a kit for repairing Boyer wires

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Anonymous

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These kits have speeded road side repairs for many Norton riders. After two guys at this summer's Norton rally needed the two pair on hand. It had been requested I make them for sale so you can do this without running to the store twice. Here are the instructions. The kits are 15.00 plus shipping. I still do the fork kits as well and have some blanks machined for oil presure gage brackets. Privet mail me for more info. Greg Fauth AKA norbsa48503.

DIRECTIONS FOR BOYER WIRE REPAIR KIT




KIT CONTAINS TWO NEW LEADS THREE INCHES LONG. THEY HAVE ALL THE HARDWARE READY TO GO FOR INSTALLING ON THE BIKE. THIS KIT KEEPS YOU FROM RUNNING TO A NUMBER OF HARDWARE AND AUTO PARTS STORES AND FIGURING SIZES AND SHAPES IT'S JUST A TIME SAVER.THE NEW LEADS ARE MADE FROM THE BRAIDED PART OF THE COAXIAL CABLE USED FOR TV'S. . THE LEADS ARE SHRUNK WRAPPED BUT THE WRAP IS NOT HEATED YET. ON ONE END THERE IS AN EYELET CONNECTOR ATTACHED TO THE EYELET FITTING, ONE SMALL SCREW AND TWO NUTS. THE OTHER END HAS A FEMALE BULLET CONNECTOR THAT MATCHES THE MALE CONNECTORS THAT CAME WITH THE BOYER IGNITION.

FIRST RE MOVE THE POINT COVER REMEMBER WHEN REPLACING THERE IS A TOP AND BOTTOM TO THE COVER. NOW YOU NEED TO MARK TWO THINGS BEFORE GOING ANY FURTHER. I LIKE A FELT TIP SHARPIE FOR THIS JOB. YOU NEED A LINE LINKING THE BOYER BACKING PLATE TO THE ALUMINUM CASTING AND A SMALL DOT BY THE WIRE WITH THE YELLOW TRACE MARKING. THE FIRST MARK ALLOWS YOU TO RE-ASSEMBLE THE BOYER PLATE SO THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO RETIME THE BIKE. THE DOT JUST MAKES IT EASY TO REMEMBER TO PUT THE YELLOW RINGED NEW WIRE WERE THE OLD YELLOW WIRE WAS.

NOW YOU CAN PULL APART THE OLD BULLET CONNECTORS TWO PAIR OF PLIERS ARE GOOD FOR THIS. BE SURE TO KEEP FROM DEFORMING THE MALE SIDE GOING BACK TO THE BLACK BOX AS YOU REUSE THESE CONNECTORS. WITH THE PLATE UNWIRED YOU NOW CAN LOOSEN OFF THE PILLAR BOLTS AND GET THE BACKING PLATE UP ON THE WORK BENCH.

NOW YOU HAVE TO DE-SOLDER THE OLD SHORT LEADS FROM THE BACKING PLATE. BE FORE GETTING OUT THE TORCH OR THE SOLDERING IRON THERE MAY BE ONE OR TWO THINGS TO REMOVE FIRST. ONE IS THE FACTORY ZIP TIE IF STILL THERE AND NUMBERTWO IS THE GOB OF EPOXY HOLDING THESE WIRES TO THE PLATE.REMOVE THE EPOXY GENTLY SO AS NOT TO DAMAGE THE PLATE I USE MY FINGER NAILS BUT A SMALL SCREW DRIVER WILL DO. THERE ARE BATCHES OF EPOXY FOUND TO BE ROCK HARD THAT NEEDED SLICES WITH RAZER KNIFES TO BREAK UP AND REMOVE. DO BE CARFUL IF YOU GET ONE OF THESE.

NOW I USE A BUTANE TORCH TURNED DOWN LOW AND LET IT STAND ON THE BENCH RUNNING TO DO THE DE-SOLDERING. GRAB THE PLATE WITH YOUR HAND AND THE WIRE TO BE REMOVED WITH A PAIR OF PLIERS AIMING THE FLAME AT THE SOLDER DOT ON THE BACK OF THE PLATE A STEADY PULL AT THE WIRE AND OUT COMES THE OLD LEAD. REPEAT FOR THE OTHER SIDE CAREFUL DON'T START YOUR PLATE ON FIRE. NOW YOU NEED A CLEAN COTTON CLOTH REHEAT THE HOLES A BIT AND WIPE AWAY THE EXCESS SOLDER AROUND THE HOLES REPEAT TILL CLEANED UP AND BOLTS FIT THROUGH. YOU CAN USE A #33 DRILL BIT TO REAM THEM IF YOU'RE HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THE FIT.

NOW YOU'RE READY YOU INSTALL THE BOLTS INTO THE BACK OF THE PLATE. THE SCREW GOES IN FROM THE BACK OF THE PLATE SO THAT THE THREADED PART IS WHAT YOU SEE STICKING OUT WHEN IT'S ON THE BIKE. RUN DOWN ONE OF THE NUTS ON EACH OF THE BOLTS HAND TIGHT TO HOLD THE HEAD UP TIGHT TO THE BACK OF THE PLATE. NOW WITH A SMALL BIT OF FLUX AND HEAT SOLDER THE SCREW HEAD TO THE BACK OF THE PLATE. ONLY A DOT OF SOLDER IS NEEDED YOU DON'T WANT IT BLEEDING OUT ONTO THE THREADS. ONCE IT'S ALL COOLED DOWN A DROP OF BLUE LOCTITE # 242 GOES ON THE NUT AND IT'S SNUGGLED UP WITH TOOLS.

PUT THE EYELET END OF THE NEW LEAD ON TOP OF THE LOCKTITED NUT AND ADD THE SECOND NUT WITH ANOTHER DROP OF LOCKTIE ON TOP OF THE EYELET. NOW PUT THE PLATE BACK IN THE BIKE ON THE MARK YOU MADE FOR TIMING AND SNUG UP THE PILLAR BOLTS. BOTH OF THE NEW LEADS GO FROM BOTTOM TO TOP IN A CURVE THAT GETS THE FEMALE BULLET END POINTING BACK DOWN TOWARDS WERE THEY ARE ATTACHED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PLATE. RE INSERT THE MALE BULLET CONNECTORS INTO THE FEMALES. YOU'RE ALMOST DONE.

I USE A THIN PIECE OF FOAM LIKE THAT FOUND IN HELMETS AND I CUT IT AND USE SILICONE TO FIX IT TO THE INSIDE OF THE POINT COVER. THIS MOD ALLOWS THE BULLET CONNECTORS TO HAVE SOMETHING TO REST AGAINST WHILE THE BIKE ENGINE IS SHAKING. PUT ON THE COVER AND IT'S DONE. THE HEAT OF THE MOTOR WILL CURE THE SHRINK WRAP IN THEIR PROPER PLACES AS YOU GO DOWN THE ROAD.
 
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Jun 14, 2003
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WOW - another testament of the reliability of the Boyer electronic ignition system!

I'm amazed that anyone has the nerve to say "bullet proofing" and "Boyer" in the same sentence. If a Boyer is bullet-proof, then a points system must be incapable of performing at all.

I think that reliability is being confused with ease of installation. It takes a certain nack to install and properly set up a points ignition system. And those people who struggle with the installation of a points-type ignition system are drawn to a Boyer ignition like vagrants to a freeway overpass.

I appologize for the rather harsh riposte but the bait has been dangling in front of me for so long I couldn't resist.

Regards,

Jason
 
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Sure sounds like a hassle doesn't it?

OldBritts sells a very nicely-done mounting bracket for the Boyer blackbox for those who don't want to just use duct tape or whatever. Their bracket is designed to hold *two* black boxes. So when the electronics die on you in the middle of nowhere you can switch over to the spare box and keep going!

Are these things that unreliable? Ugh. Think I'll just keep running points.

Debby
 
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A long long time ago Boyer made thier kits much like this mod. These old Boyers run and run and run what problem? Nortons are the only bike that break the wires as a matter of course. It's the iso's that keep us free from vibes but witch shake the motor a lot. Keep in mind that both my Boyers went 4000 miles or so before showing simptoms. I have discribed in detail on this form how to set points and I like points but there are no good points left unless you have a old stock Lucas stash. With this simple fix a fusable link for the Vibes if you will, the thing is bullet proof. A spare black box rediculus. It' almost always bad wireing. norbsa Greg Fauth
 
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Hi Norbsa,

What exactly is the problem with the non-Lucas contact points? Is it primarily an alignment problem between the contacts, or premature wear?

Remember:
You can't win,
you can't break even,
but you can't quit!

Jason
 
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Jason Curtiss said:
Hi Norbsa,

What exactly is the problem with the non-Lucas contact points? Is it primarily an alignment problem between the contacts, or premature wear?

Remember:
You can't win,
you can't break even,
but you can't quit!

Jason

I can tell you the repop points require some fettling to get the contacts to line up, or at least mine did. And adjusting them is a little trickier than I would have thought. But hey, everything's like that.

I'm also told the rubbing block wears fairly rapidly requiring frequent adjustment. That could be an issue for high-mileage riders.

Sorry about hijacking your thread Greg! The kit does sound like a nice convenience for those who have unmodified Boyers. I just couldn't resist teasing a bit...

Debby
 
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First thing you get with the new repops is rapid closing during running in. Then as Dave says the spring steel they use for the springs seems to fall prey to long hot rides. And as Deby says the nylon just dosn't resisit wear like real Lucas points. I have a man here in Michigan who has a stash of real Lucas points the last price I got was 20.00 for each pair. I am sure it's higher now. And then there's that rev limiter thing.
As I say I was asked to do these kits and I only charge what it costs to produce and mail them. The front end kits are in the same boat it's a cheap fix for a common problem. Just trying to make it easy. norbsa Greg
 
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"These kits have speeded road side repairs for many Norton riders. After two guys at this summer's Norton rally needed the two pair on hand."

Their is a simple method of installation for a boyer system to help stop anything "breaking".

Where the two stator plate wires go through the hole in the timing cover & out to the frame downtube...leave some slack. This allows movement for the wires, I also put a "zip tie" around the wires and frame to make certain the wires have free play. They should not pull out of the bullet connectors if you take care doing this.

My boyer has been on my Interstate for 2 years now & I have had one break down there before I thought to install it the way I just described.
It took me about 15 minutes to fix it.

It never ceases to amaze me that some of the people that ride these older bikes, carry no tools/spares & get other people to fix em !

Debby,
It would appear that Jason Curtiss's comments in this post have only added to deter you from installing a good ignition system. Do not be fooled by his comments. You will have a lot more maintenance on your norton if you stick to points, to keep it running at its' best.

The amount of "downtime" you have after installing a boyer would be very little compared to a standard points setup. I guess that may be a reason most vehicle manufacturers chose electronic over the points system. Better performance, reliability, less maintenance etc, etc.......

Jason,
"And those people who struggle with the installation of a points-type ignition system are drawn to a Boyer ignition like vagrants to a freeway overpass."

It is possible that the two who may or may not have been able to fix their bikes fall into that category, as we know, there many out there that wouldn't even know which system they even had.

And maybe some of us just realise that the electronic ignition system is way better.
 
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Jun 24, 2004
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Installed Greg's kit today...

Did the removal of old wires and installed the new wires today. Took it leisurely, still managed to bend-off a male connector, replaced connector and on went the new wires from Greg. Took an hour or so. No sweat.

-David in Houston
 
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Glad the kit worked out for you David.
The wires that break are very short they go from the backing plate to the female connectors. The break in them is never visible but none the less is there. First sign rough running when the motor is at max tourque.
The wires in the kit are made of a hollow braid like thumb hand cuffs and will not break. No matter how you mount the rest of the wires leading to the black box this kit is for repairing the short wire breaks so Reg's talk about leaving slack in the run up the frame is a point well taken.
This repair kit forms a vibration dampener and allows one to still use bullet connector system with no problems. It is a good idea to use some soft foam inside the point cover to give the connections something to rest agaist. norbsa
 

Anonymous

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Boyer wires

I'd like to buy one of your kits. It will keep give me something else to do when it comes time for spring refurbishing. Contact me at dwardo4@comcast.net
 
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