Hydraulic clutch

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Matchless said:
Would I be correct in thinking, that a hydraulically activated clutch, cannot be made any lighter than a cable operated clutch. Just less prone to temperature changes etc. This is assuming they both give equal lift.


Does it not depend on the differences in size between the diameters of the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, whether or not you can get a lighter pull with a hydraulic system?
 
chasbmw said:
Matchless said:
Would I be correct in thinking, that a hydraulically activated clutch, cannot be made any lighter than a cable operated clutch. Just less prone to temperature changes etc. This is assuming they both give equal lift.


Does it not depend on the differences in size between the diameters of the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, whether or not you can get a lighter pull with a hydraulic system?

Of course it would but you still have to move the pushrod far enough to eliminate clutch drag. The higher the hydraulic ratio the less will be the slave cylinder travel. Jim
 
That was the best modification i did to my mk3. I just purchased another one for my 750 build. Worth saving up for. Thanks Jim!

I almost got killed once A long time ago when a clutch cable broke on an old BSA and the bike jumped into traffic.

Cheers
 
Forget anything and anyone but Matt @ CNW or Jim Comstock this kit is worth twice the money !! I have one in each of my commandos and love,love ,love them....fit....finish,exactly what you'd expect from them ! Just do it !
Jeff
 
zefer said:
Forget anything and anyone but Matt @ CNW or Jim Comstock
Jeff

I would add: if the information is contrary to that of Matt of CNW, or Jim Comstock, double forget it. Some of the information I've seen posted here I would put in the category of old wive's tales.

Owning and riding a Norton is NOT a cheap hobby. Any attempt to make it so will result in failure, if not outright disaster. If you are of a frugal nature, I suggest you look elsewhere for a hobby other than owning and riding a vintage motorcycle.
 
You never know where you might find a cool gadget.

I bought a hydraulic clutch actuator that mounts in the clutch cable abutment at the tranny cover, and has an internal "pull" plunger with a cable-nub shaped bit on the end that slots in just like the cable. I have yet to try it, but it seems nifty...

This gizmo would not be direct-acting (wouldn't eliminate the ball and lever, nor the pushrod), and would need to utilize a universal clutch master cylinder & lever.
 
I like the looks of the new system seen on these pages, but I bought a Magura Hymec system for my Atlas about 15 years ago and it still works great. I haven't seen it offered anywhere so I assume it has to be purchased through Magura and put together at home. But it is a nice installation and works well. Why the Atlas was such a bear in the clutch dpt is still a mystery to me even after fighting it for a few years. Best thing you can do for an Atlas is a dry belt drive and an hydraulic clutch
 
seattle##gs said:
I like the looks of the new system seen on these pages, but I bought a Magura Hymec system for my Atlas about 15 years ago and it still works great. I haven't seen it offered anywhere so I assume it has to be purchased through Magura and put together at home. But it is a nice installation and works well. Why the Atlas was such a bear in the clutch dpt is still a mystery to me even after fighting it for a few years. Best thing you can do for an Atlas is a dry belt drive and an hydraulic clutch

Venhill uk offers these up. They look pretty clean and easy. Having an after market front brake cylinder, my issue is getting an after market switchgear to work with the clutch side, (hi low beam, horn, turn signal, dip). Holland offers up a nice narrow one but I am not sure it would work with the Magura Hymec perch.
 
Just took a look at Venhills home page, and there´s no model fitting the Norton.
Tommy
 
Ok, now I´m with you, that PDF didn´t show when I watched their site. Looks pretty slim even though it´s mounted on the outside of the clutch cover. Anyone got any info on prices?
 
Jerry Doe said:
That was the best modification i did to my mk3. I just purchased another one for my 750 build. Worth saving up for. Thanks Jim!

I almost got killed once A long time ago when a clutch cable broke on an old BSA and the bike jumped into traffic.

Cheers

Old injuries mean I can struggle with a motorcycle clutch, not initially but after prolonged use. I fitted the CNW kit and at first, didn't notice it at all. But that is a good thing as it meant that even after a decent ride with prolonged clutch, use I STILL didn't notice it cos there was no issue!

It is definitely lighter to pull, but seems to give a better action as well, more feel I guess.
 
fiatfan said:
Just took a look at Venhills home page, and there´s no model fitting the Norton.
Tommy


Venhill said to me that they would work with you to work out the dimensions to come up with one that would work, but might not be much cheaper than buying the CNW system?
 
I'm sure that you all know this... but if you stack you clutch plates high enough the action on the lever is feather light... my clutch on my Combat can easily be pulled with two fingers and works great. (And I didn't have to spend a fortune on a hydraulic system>)
 
Johnnymac said:
I'm sure that you all know this... but if you stack you clutch plates high enough the action on the lever is feather light... my clutch on my Combat can easily be pulled with two fingers and works great. (And I didn't have to spend a fortune on a hydraulic system>)

That's true, but it also reduces the clamping force and makes the clutch more prone to slippage. I did that on the MK3 I recently built for my grandson to ride, and got a nice light pull, but with the mild 883 street motor I used in it, it slips under full throttle. I'm planning to redo it for more clamping force, and fit Jim's hydraulic kit to make up for it. FWIW it's a Barnett clutch pack.

Ken
 
chasbmw said:
fiatfan said:
Just took a look at Venhills home page, and there´s no model fitting the Norton.
Tommy


Venhill said to me that they would work with you to work out the dimensions to come up with one that would work, but might not be much cheaper than buying the CNW system?

I know that in the states you can get the unit for just under $300. The key point to the Magura units is, is a 10mm throw enough for the Norton clutch release lever to function. They say if you need more, it won't work.
Then I would need the switchgear to add to the expence. Venhill offers a nice one of these too.

FWIW, I am having a hard time finding the CNW unit on their site. Edit, found it!
 
My 850 clutch has always been light ever since new, I am still running the orginal plates have never stacked them, I use to break clutch cables often till I started to put a bit of grease on the cable ends where it goes through the adjusters, I have been doing this now for 35 years and have never broke a cable since, I have never broke a cable down at the gear box lever but I still put a bit of grease there as well, I do check the cable for wear but not to often and the newer cables with the liner inside are so much better than the older cables, using tranny oil type F and my clutch never slips, but of course you still got to maintain your clutch as part of general maintenance.
If my clutch was a hard, heavey clutch then I would in vest in a hydraulic clutch, but as it is now I have no reason to do so, I can easly pull my clutch in with one finger if I need to.

Ashley
 
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