how to remove alternator rotor nut??? Tricks

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jeremy0201

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Hello I have a 74 commando 850 and can't get the rotor off, I saw in a manual that 1 person can get it off by simultaneously pressing brake pedal and wrenching on bolt... It just seems that it puts so much pressure on the primary chain etc, well so far i haven't budged it.. I am putting a 3 phase, rewiring and adding trispark ign and coil... This is holding up the show more questions to come I'm sure.. thanks for any help..
 
jeremy0201 said:
Hello I have a 74 commando 850 and can't get the rotor off, I saw in a manual that 1 person can get it off by simultaneously pressing brake pedal and wrenching on bolt... It just seems that it puts so much pressure on the primary chain etc, well so far i haven't budged it.. I am putting a 3 phase, rewiring and adding trispark ign and coil... This is holding up the show more questions to come I'm sure.. thanks for any help..
Click to expand...

Impact Wrench.
 
Yea ; A six point socket , of nicely fitting long ring spanner , and give it a good whack with a mallet . :shock:

A ' impact ' / shock & the relitive mass , means it will often crack loose .Youre only allowed three hits though . :P

Often this will have jarred it free for you anyway , when you come to put the spanner on it . AIM CLEAR at all times.
The instructions for the Falcon neglect to say ' refit nut a few turns ' where it says " Haul rearward to remove steering wheel ". :oops: :shock: . If it kicks loose ( the Spanner ) see it kicks loose clear . Putting the boot in , on the spanner
is a acceptted method. Much prefered to pushing down all your weight on your fist six inches from a obsticle,
when something gives / slips . Heaveings prefered if its the hands , but ( see ' steering wheel ) NOT toward
the cranium , jaw , nose or assistant .
1/2 drive socket prefered .
Have rags handy for spilt blood until familiar with the practise . :wink:
 
Good, primary chain still on, figure out some blocks of metal or tool to jam in the clutch teeth to bare on correct side of the center mount for the toque on nut being applied. You'd break your wrench or the nut before bothering the primary chain. Apply heat to everything that don't come right off with a bit more than expected effort.

Once ya find or make up a set of jam blocks, keep em around for later, so worth while doing it now. Mine are Al scraps.

how to remove alternator rotor nut??? Tricks
 
Not sure if it applies, but on Harley's it is generally regarded as a no no to use an impact wrench on the crank, most likely done all the time, but maybe not wise. Again, on Harley's they use a jamb bar, this is a lenght of flat mild steel of the right lenght to fit diagonally between the teeth of the two primary sprockets, you can round the ends to make it fit snugly into the sprocket teeth. This is a handy little tool to keep.

Not so keen on Hobots approach, just in case is damages the outer primary mount?

Cheers Richard
 
Hey now, its decade+ hobot fumble tested robust safe no damage fast secure lock up. More than one way to skin this kitten and if a cross bar good enough for a Harley then great for our Nortons. I carry my blocks in longer distance tool kit though. Did I forget to mention applying a thermal wrench-er first? Thermal expansion takes a bit of time and can be repeated till win win.
 
Yes ; With the Bar about opposite , putting the heal of the touring boot on the end , to take up the slack .
and . . . one Quick Stomp .

WE DONT use our rathets to kick things loose . DO WE . :roll: Knackers the little sucker in there , JUST LIKE A
KICKSTART PAWL . :shock:

HEAT . / Thermal Shock . Hard & Fast . propane or the like . a WET rag , Wrung just drip free . if a dramatist .
pansying around , ALL the HEAT walks of everywhere . Naughty naugty . Get in , hit it hard . and get out . :lol:

Chains , strtchy strety . :?: :( The bar thingo is like a bit of cardboard you put the two sprockets on , drew
and cut out & kept the bit between . Mk IIIs have a advantage here , the spaceings fixed . :lol:
Hardwood ( HARD hardwood ) as per Steves thingo's , If youre a timber chappie , often work .

TARZAN welded two clutch plates together ( male & Female , and welded a 2 or 3 Ft. length of waterpipe across & off.
Slideing this in the drum looks realy impressive. Figureing something similar for the front sprockets the go . :?

CLEANED , ONE drop of red loctite on the Nut is about right . TWO drops MAX. Or youll need the gas to kick it free .
 
jeremy0201 said:
I saw in a manual that 1 person can get it off by simultaneously pressing brake pedal and wrenching on bolt... It just seems that it puts so much pressure on the primary chain etc,
Click to expand...
That pressure is nothing compared to what happens when you grab a gear doing 60 mph and head into the passing lane. You can also put it 4th. and lock the rear wheel up but if you are able to stop it with the brake that will do. Just use a longer handle flex bar or a pipe over the handle of your ratchet. Make sure the socket stays square on the nut so you don't damage the nut and lean into it with the added leverage.
 
Changeing UP into second from 3rd , ? or putting the brake pedal in gear ? :lol: 8)

Hardly Ablesons , haveing a three piece or 5 , Crank / flywheels / mainshafts , the mallet is used to align it .The Crank.
On the Bench . I think you can imagine the rest relateing to the above . :x
 
Like Swoosh said, get an impact wrench. Done, end of story.
One of the most valuable tools one can have in their tool box.
You'll wonder how you ever got along without one.
Unless you already have one and just didn't think about it then never mind.
I'm losin' it man!
 
stockie2 said:
Not sure if it applies, but on Harley's it is generally regarded as a no no to use an impact wrench on the crank, most likely done all the time, but maybe not wise. Again, on Harley's they use a jamb bar, this is a lenght of flat mild steel of the right lenght to fit diagonally between the teeth of the two primary sprockets, you can round the ends to make it fit snugly into the sprocket teeth. This is a handy little tool to keep.

Not so keen on Hobots approach, just in case is damages the outer primary mount?

Cheers Richard
Click to expand...

Good Q... on Harley's, a roller bearing is used on the con rods, impact wrench can damage the bearings slightly, leading to eventual failure. The plain rod bearings (like on the Norton) are fine to deal with it. We see it occasionally when people use impacts to remove snowmobile clutches, 2-stroke rod bearings may be damaged.
 
stockie2 said:
Not sure if it applies, but on Harley's it is generally regarded as a no no to use an impact wrench on the crank, most likely done all the time, but maybe not wise.
Cheers Richard
Click to expand...

To remove, not tighten. Of course Harley are made from raw pig iron so it doesn't take much to damage them. :mrgreen:
 
jeremy0201 said:
Hello I have a 74 commando 850 and can't get the rotor off, I saw in a manual that 1 person can get it off by simultaneously pressing brake pedal and wrenching on bolt... It just seems that it puts so much pressure on the primary chain etc, well so far i haven't budged it.. I am putting a 3 phase, rewiring and adding trispark ign and coil... This is holding up the show more questions to come I'm sure.. thanks for any help..
Click to expand...

I have used the brake method only to discover the weakness of the break cable. Many have broken spokes by putting a piece of wood or the like to stop at the swing arm. Also a bad way to go.

On sale today is the fabuless Harbor Freight Electric impact wrench. Honestly, these things are very very handy.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-electri ... 68099.html
 
The rear brake thing sounds good in theory but...

I use a length of drive chain over the countershaft sprocket, bolt a block of wood through one end and then run it up to where it hits the frame. For tightening I reverse it. If the primary chain is in good shape I wouldn't worry that you are going to damage it though application of leverage. Impact would be a bigger concern to me, if I went that direction I wouldn't block the primary so as not to shock the components, but that is just me.
 
I always wondered if using an electric or pneumatic impact wrench on a crankshaft with rolling-element bearings causes the rollers and balls to peen the races they run in. Seems like common sense and a possibility to me, so I don't do it......
 
beng said:
I always wondered if using an electric or pneumatic impact wrench on a crankshaft with rolling-element bearings causes the rollers and balls to peen the races they run in. Seems like common sense and a possibility to me, so I don't do it......
Click to expand...

You know that an impact wrench is rotational? How is it going to affect the races? Besides they just help in jarring the nut loose. After that there's no load.
 
Well hold a crankshaft in your hands sometime while someone is taking a tight nut off the end with an impact wrench and tell me how smooth it feels.

If you put a hardened ball bearing or roller on a surface, even a hard steel one, how hard do you think you can tap it with a hammer before it will leave an indentation or mark on the surface or either?

The impact tool sends sharp shock waves and vibrations through any metal that is mechanically attached to the nut it is working on, until it reaches a rubber barrier like an isolastic mount or the tires doesn't it?

If you put your ear against the wall of a steel and concrete building, I could use an impact wrench on the opposite wall of it a hundred yards away and you would hear it.
 
beng said:
Well hold a crankshaft in your hands sometime while someone is taking a tight nut off the end with an impact wrench and tell me how smooth it feels.

If you put a hardened ball bearing or roller on a surface, even a hard steel one, how hard do you think you can tap it with a hammer before it will leave an indentation or mark on the surface or either?

The impact tool sends sharp shock waves and vibrations through any metal that is mechanically attached to the nut it is working on, until it reaches a rubber barrier like an isolastic mount or the tires doesn't it?

If you put your ear against the wall of a steel and concrete building, I could use an impact wrench on the opposite wall of it a hundred yards away and you would hear it.
Click to expand...

For loosening a nut every few hundred years I'm not going to loose any sleep over it.
 
Holy moley. Thats alot of great info sorry for the inconvenience I used heat, spanked it with hammer/spanner and then used best fitting ratchet and she gave in immediately and my break cable didn't even break!!! Thanks all... now to figure out timing marks for new rotor and reinstallation...
 
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