how to remove alternator rotor nut??? Tricks

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If using ole points system got to pay attention to which jug is on TDC compression so go by both valves being loose on that side, then permanently paint and scratch the correct rotor mark to go by. If electronic ign, then just set jugs to TDC and mark cast in rotor mark, plus one on the stator and also a 28' or 30', or 32' advance mark before the TDC mark. Real BI mechanics don't need no stinking air impacts, just group mind focus and a torch.
 
Hi there , a piece of rubber from an old tyre tube around the rotor (stator removed first), then a cheap oil filter wrench (the screw on one , around the rotor , it helps to hold the rotor while you unscrew(screw) that nut ......
 
marinatlas said:
Hi there , a piece of rubber from an old tyre tube around the rotor (stator removed first), then a cheap oil filter wrench (the screw on one , around the rotor , it helps to hold the rotor while you unscrew(screw) that nut ......

Isn't there a history of rotors that come loose?
 
swooshdave said:
jeremy0201 said:
Hello I have a 74 commando 850 and can't get the rotor off, I saw in a manual that 1 person can get it off by simultaneously pressing brake pedal and wrenching on bolt... It just seems that it puts so much pressure on the primary chain etc, well so far i haven't budged it.. I am putting a 3 phase, rewiring and adding trispark ign and coil... This is holding up the show more questions to come I'm sure.. thanks for any help..

Impact Wrench.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Strong secondary recommendation.
 
I'm undertaking this particular task at the moment, so thought I'd resurrect this thread to solicit Your esteemed opinion.

A word about my situation: I have the motor in the frame, on a jack... no wheels, or breaks to re-attach and "apply fully" (as per Workshop Manual).

One the older thread about rotor nut removal, there was some mention about wedging some milled steel between the two triplex sprockets (the Harley method). I was curious as to the effectiveness of said method and possibility of damaging the two sprockets and their teeth (engine sprocket and clutch drum). It seems given my setup (see above), this might be my only way forward.

Anyone tried one of these, or something similar:

Primary Drive Lock Tool HD
or
Primary Drive Lock Tool 2 HD

The second of the two seems to even be nicely machined, with rounded ends. Just have to go and measure the distance between sprockets inside the primary case...

Thanks everyone!
 
I have used a piece of wood between the chain and sprocket ,and a rattle gun to undo the nut not tighten it !
 
an old chainsaw trick was to take the spark plug out and feed some fat rope into the cylinder leaving the tail hanging out of the spark plug hole. Then when you go to turn the rotor nut, the rope inside the cylinder stops the piston's upward travel and the nut spins off. Usually you just use the rope to break the nut free, then turn the crank backwards to take pressure off the rope and pull the rope out. The nut should turn pretty easily after it's broken free... I'm not sure if this trick is inherently bad for a norton, but it's done on big chainsaws in place of threading in a "piston stop" in the spark plug hole when removing the drive sprocket.
 
I've used the rope method, very easy to do. No drama with heat or impact wrenches :D
 
click said:
I've used the rope method, very easy to do. No drama with heat or impact wrenches :D

Sounds a good tip - my preferred method is to run front wheel up against a wall put bike in top ,screw up back brake , sit on bike and use
breaker bar with extension and good socket
 
o0norton0o said:
an old chainsaw trick was to take the spark plug out and feed some fat rope into the cylinder leaving the tail hanging out of the spark plug hole. Then when you go to turn the rotor nut, the rope inside the cylinder stops the piston's upward travel and the nut spins off. Usually you just use the rope to break the nut free, then turn the crank backwards to take pressure off the rope and pull the rope out. The nut should turn pretty easily after it's broken free... I'm not sure if this trick is inherently bad for a norton, but it's done on big chainsaws in place of threading in a "piston stop" in the spark plug hole when removing the drive sprocket.

Same for snowmobiles and their ilk. Two things:
1) tie a knot in the end of the rope so it can't fall into the hole,
2) make sure you're coming up on compression in that hole, or you'll bend a valve/pushrod.

As for earlier concerns about what might be happening to the crank roller main bearings if an impact is used, no worries. The impact will impart a rotational movement to the crank, whereas it would be a radial displacement that would damage the rollers. As was pointed out by Concours, the Norton uses plain sleeve bearings on the rods which are not adversely affected by the impact's impacts. I used an impact to pull mine over 6 thousand miles ago, and we're still running strong.

Nathan
 
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