HOW TO "BULLET PROOF" OUR NORTONS ?

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If I can make a suggestion that every regular contributor to this forum makes 1 good suggestion to help "Bullet Proof" our Nortons.

Be it in the electrical area, mechanical area, chassis area, tyres/wheels, suspension or even the painting of our bikes. Whatever your favourite mod is to help IMPROVE the norton, just list it. Maybe it is the type of nuts n blots u reckon is best, doesn't matter, just post it under this topic for all to read & evaluate.

I will start the suggestions off by suggesting the first thing to do would be replace the points system with an electronic system.

Over to you people.....................
 

Anonymous

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"Bullet Proof"

Sorry Nortonfan, But i'm going to through a wrench/spanner in the works already! Going to an ARD magneto and battery system myself.
Regards,
Lawrence
 

Anonymous

Guest
And obviously, not watching my spelling, THROW!!!!!!!!!!
Lawrence
 
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Lawrence you can't "through" a spanner in the works.
All opinions count & will be evaluated by all interested enough :D

Contributing is what matters :idea:
 

MichaelB

"Sons of Arthritus"
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Clutch rod seal, don't overfill fluids, store bike on center stand or upright position.
 
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Here's a few tips that I've learned:

If you have a fibreglass tank and alcohol "enhanced" fuel, get the tank cleaned out and lined.

Autolite AP63/64 sparking plugs

Clean up all the electrical connections and reassemble with some dialectric grease.

Invest in some new plug wires if the ones on the bike are old.

Go through the basics before throwing expensive parts at a problem.

Debby
 
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Check the lift of each cam lobe with an indicator at the valve spring retainers. Check out the known lift in the work shop manual for your cam. There's no use in letting all the metal from a bad lobe flow through the oil.

If that's ok put in a RMA automatic cam chain adjuster. Electrics are only as good as the cam motion and if you don't have an auto adjuster it jumps all over.

Stock charging system on most bikes just makes it. So get yourself a LED tail and brakelight and take some strain off the system.

Ride a Norton with a well sorted pair of Mark two Amals and you will be shocked.

Belt drive is the most bang for the buck. Easy maintanance, great dry clutch, quicker revs, lighter wieght.

520 X-ring chain, so nice, 1969 Chain guards with inside extention guard.

norbsa
 

Anonymous

Guest
Two of the things I considered a great help on my 75 were the 4 brush starter conversion and the addition of a sealed Gel-Mat battery.
Regards,
Lawrence
 
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It is very surprising to myself that only two or three regulars have contributed anything at all to this post.

What is it ? Are y'all trying to keep the secrets to yourselves ?

If you own a "Combat" engine or other "high compression" engine, I suggest also that running an extra breather from the inlet rocker cover will be a benefit.
 
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Here's another thing I've learned the hard way:

When you acquire a new-to-you Norton don't make any assumptions about its condition. Go through EVERYTHING, check it, and make it right. And do a proper repair even if it costs more money and takes more time than you wanted to spend. Otherwise you'll just end up doing it over. DAMHIK

Happy New Year!
Debby
 
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The addition of the Boyer-Brandson electronic ignition system in itself is one of the best up-grades going (imo). I'm from the old school and understand the concept of points, plugs and condensor ignition systems but the spark advance curve with the B-B unit is apperant on the first ride...............However, with that being said the B-B unit is not perfect and a couple of things need to be done by you to improve the reliability factor.
1) Cut off ALL the bullet conectors supplied with the kit and solder ALL connections.
2) Secure the wires to the pick-up base plate with silicon sealer or pliable glue by burying the wires to the plate. This is essential to keep the wires from vibrating and breaking.
3) Use a higher quality pair of wires from the pick-up to the module.
4) Install a dual output single coil.
5) Solder the power supply to the module and solder the ground wire into
a connector and clean the ground connector location.

The reason I know all this is because I've learned from experience. My sloppy installation work led to two tow truck rides and many hours in the garage chasing my own tail.

Just the differance from changing from the bullet connectors to ALL soldered joints was amazing in smoth idle, easier starts, and way more power.

Live, learn and pass it on.

Ride On
Dave
 
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May 22, 2004
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NF wrote:
replace the points system with an electronic system

I do'nt know what Boyer's are like these days.. but I recently found that the two bullet connectors leading to the pick up unit.. were not crimped properly .. in fact loose as!

Soldering them resolved that (real time ) problem I was having! (As per TBR suggests!) Can't comment on the coil mod..

A suggestion that was made to me, (by a electronics guru) was that the Boyer unit which is usually mounted diretly above the coils, should be moved to the rear of the head steady ~ and even wrapped in aluminuim foil ~ and this grounded to the chasiss, as the original / common possy is prone to electrical/ magnetic interference to the master unit from the coils. (??)


Spark Plugs ~ NGK Niridium ~ although Autolite is good though!

Auto chain adjuster: A brilliant mod.. mime has been in there since 1993!

The electronic rectifier/ warning light assembly is a great mod too . I ditched that stupid allloy can years ago..

I fitted a PCV (Positive control valve ) from a GMH six cylinder breather to brake booster to the engine breather pipe .. near as possible to the oil tank. This I believe lessens the crankcase pressure build up (on the power stroke) and subsequent oil leaks/ misting on the crankcase.

Fit a chain guard extension (from Norvil shop UK) .. great little mod!

Adapt the rubber muffler mounts to the oil tank .. (this I beleive can be aproblem if you have the iso's too tight.. I kept breaking them .. but in doing so do not over tighten the base mount.. or at very least .. make sure the base is well mounted..

RGM in Cumbria UK sell brilliant instrument (rubber) boots to cover the base of the instruments.

Nylon carb cables.. would never have believed the difference till I fitted them!
 
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Although this isn't something that is readily available right now, I think it would be a big help to have a fuel injection system that could replace the caburetors. The Amals are antique pieces of @#$%, the Mikunis are better but not perfect a good digital FI would be excellent. Maybe a system could be adapted from a Harley or Ducati. It would take some dyno time to get the mapping right but this would definetly be a huge improvement. Yeah I know FI is more complicated but the improvements in the last few years has made them reliable to the point that its the norm on most new bikes now.

Anybody out there with the time and money to start something on this?

Last thing; LED tail lights and turn signals and maybe a HID headlight to bring old Normie into the 21st Century. :idea:

Scooter
 
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May 22, 2004
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Scooter ~ rite on !

"maybe a HID headlight to bring old Normie into the 21st Century"

I converted my headlamp several years ago to a "brilliant' QI headlamp .. 'Wagner' H4 and the lense protrudes some 10-12mm from the chrome headlamp bezel.. and this gives the headlamp a fantastic lateral / side spread of light.

Just to add sugar to the pie.. it cost me $15 AUD ~ ~ from a auto acessory place ~
It took a just little tinkering but works just great ~~ Can't give enough credit! 8)
(OPPS be careful ~ if you have an ammeter in the headlamp shell, as this may well hinder the placement of new'er headlamp !!)

And be careful about 'chucking in' higher output globes.. beyond the 60-65 watt rate as the standard alternator winding WILL NOT not respect you at all for doing so!! ~
 

Ron L

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1) Electronic ignition (RITA or Boyer)
2) Sleeved Amals, MkII Amals, or single/dual Mikuni
3) Headlight relay and H4 bulb with appropriate reflector
4) Horn relay
5) Solder or replace bullet connectors with more robust (Weatherhead?) connectors.
6) Three phase (180-220 watt) alternator with electronic regulator/rectifier
7) Magura or Brembo front master cylinder (disc brake models).
8.) Ducati or Jap handlebar switchgear.
9) 850 box section headsteady (or Norvil or rod-end style)
10.) 850 swingarm for 750 bikes.
11) non-crossover belled-end exhaust pipes (MkIII style) with 850 lockring (nuts) and collets and spherical seats.
12) Vernier adjustable isolastics.
13) Superblend main bearings
14) Roller type layshaft bearing
15) Lip seal on kickstart shaft
16) Lip seal on tachometer drive
17) Harley oil tank rubber mounts
18.) Quad ring seal for gearchange shaft

This list is for improved reliability. Many others needed for improved performance and handling.
 
Joined
Dec 24, 2003
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362
Good addition Ron L.

Having the Brembo master cylinder on my own, I can say that it certainly makes a difference. The Autolites AP63's also :wink:

I have been running a "Sparx" rectifier/zener diode replacement for some time now. It has been no trouble.

Has anyone else tried this mod ?

If so, Has it been a successful reliable mod ?
 
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