Here we go again

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Better there than laying it down on the road. When I saw the word "crashed" I was thinking much worse!
 
rvich said:
Better there than laying it down on the road. When I saw the word "crashed" I was thinking much worse!
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Me too.

I also need to check before lowering the lift, I've luckily caught it every time. Because I have the Harbor Freight lift the safety bar goes on every time the lift goes up. No exceptions. It will not stay up all night.
 
comnoz said:
The worst part was I was really looking forward to a ride this morning.
Maybe tomorrow. I put the video camera on the charger.
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At least you weren't there when it happened, you'd have been tempted to catch it on the way down and that can end badly.
 
From the looks of the windscreen, it could probably be reused if you cut it down about an inch to remove the damaged parts. coincidentally I cut down my fairing windshield today with a dremel with a small diameter, diamond wheel cutter.
 
o0norton0o said:
From the looks of the windscreen, it could probably be reused if you cut it down about an inch to remove the damaged parts. coincidentally I cut down my fairing windshield today with a dremel with a small diameter, diamond wheel cutter.
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Great minds think alike -but I used a large belt sander.
Done and installed and ready for a morning ride. And with a little Flitz and a foam wheel the scratches even came out. Jim
 
There is something wrong with this picture. First of all only one piston is damaged. The other looks perfect. Something went wrong on one cylinder and not the other (why?). Second - the damaged piston seized off center when it should have seized across the vertical centerline of the skirt as usual. 1/2 the skirt from the centerline over is undamaged. This suggests that either the piston was machined incorrectly (doubtful) or that the bore went out of round when it overheated (likely). Extra large bores create thin wall cylinders and distortion becomes a problem when the thin cylinders heat up. Increased power from the large displacement causes even more heat and now you are caught in a viscous circle. Cast iron cylinders don't cool as well as aluminum cylinders. Ideally you need aluminum cylinders with thick liners. My 750 Maney alum cylinders have .111" thick liners and seal just fine with less than 1% leakdown (measured hot) with total seal rings after 40,000 miles. Maney 920 cylinder liners have only about 1/2 that thickness (.060"). If you went to Maneys style 1000cc cylinders made for 83mm bore (wider cases and crank) then you could go down to 80 or 81mm bore with thicker sleeves and you would have rounder cylinders that stayed cool. That would be a sweet deal.

Now take it a step further with solid thick wall alum cylinders and Nikasil coating. Somebody step up.


Here we go again
 
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Cool thread, except for the little tumble the bike took.
The photos really keep it interesting.
 
If you want to go for a nice easy 20 minute ride here is the break-in video.

The bike is on autotune due to the new cam. It has a few rough spots for a while.

 
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comnoz said:
I live out in the high desert. Not much more than little bumps here.
Now 50 miles west of me is a different story.
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Last shot of tank shows what looks like a Monza pattern filler cap. Do you have a Fibre tank?
 
That was a nice cruise. You're stuck with unbanked curves same as me. I have to drive 60 mi. or so to get into some of the old roads that still have a few.... that is if they've not gone through and flattened them since I last was there. Bike is running strong too.... Most impressive.
 
jseng1 said:
There is something wrong with this picture. First of all only one piston is damaged. The other looks perfect. Something went wrong on one cylinder and not the other (why?). Second - the damaged piston seized off center when it should have seized across the vertical centerline of the skirt as usual. 1/2 the skirt from the centerline over is undamaged. This suggests that either the piston was machined incorrectly (doubtful) or that the bore went out of round when it overheated (likely). Extra large bores create thin wall cylinders and distortion becomes a problem when the thin cylinders heat up. Increased power from the large displacement causes even more heat and now you are caught in a viscous circle. Cast iron cylinders don't cool as well as aluminum cylinders. Ideally you need aluminum cylinders with thick liners. My 750 Maney alum cylinders have .111" thick liners and seal just fine with less than 1% leakdown (measured hot) with total seal rings after 40,000 miles. Maney 920 cylinder liners have only about 1/2 that thickness (.060"). If you went to Maneys style 1000cc cylinders made for 83mm bore (wider cases and crank) then you could go down to 80 or 81mm bore with thicker sleeves and you would have rounder cylinders that stayed cool. That would be a sweet deal.

Now take it a step further with solid thick wall alum cylinders and Nikasil coating. Somebody step up.


Here we go again
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How about you?
 
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