Here we go again

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Here are a few pictures.
Pick a cam -any cam. Or choose your poison.
Here we go again

Here is the new cam in place. I didn't take any pics of replacing it but all that was required was removing the timing cover and chains and pulling the cam out with its RH bearing.
Here we go again

Here is the piston in the piston vise after cutting the deck and valve notches.
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Here are the pistons in the barrel, They even got the N about right.
I went through my pile of 850 barrels and found one that was .060 over with damage. An ultrasonic test verified there were no thin spots and I was able to bore it all the way to 80mm without a sleeve. [hope it holds]
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Here is the barrel ready to install the pin clips. Them little wire rings are a pain but they do hold great.
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Locktite anaerobic sealant and ready to slide it into place.
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Checking the piston protrusion over the deck. .015
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Head deck to squish is .036 give me .021 squish clearance.
Here we go again
 
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Since I have been having hot bike problems and I doubt the climate is going to change or the air is going to get denser I decided to add some more fin area to the Fullauto head. It had a little less fin area than an original head anyway. So I welded on an extra 3/4 inch of fin.
Here we go again

Here we go again

Here we go again

I also drilled two 1/4 inch holes under each exhaust port to help keep some heat away from the deck surface. They go all the way through and exit outboard of the port.
Here we go again
Here we go again

I also drilled a couple more holes in the center
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Here it is ready to install. Copper wire, a light film of teflon sealant and o-rings but no gasket.
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looks a bit different in place but not as bad as I though it might.
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Here we go again

Now a few more hours to install the injection and headsteady plus flush the rest of the oil system and It will be ready to run.:cool:
 

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Well, it's all together except for a fuel tank and a side cover.
I will give it the boot tomorrow.
Note the date on the battery. 4/07 I have had pretty good luck with Odyssey batteries.
Here we go again
 
Jim
And you please explain a bit more about:
The 4" holes under the ports, and
The two 1/4" holes into the ports

I may be a bit thick but I don't really see how these work.
BTW I'm sure I read in your post #21 about the 4" holes but can't see that text any more - something about keeping the heat away from the deck - did you edit that out?
Cheers
Rob
 
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robs ss said:
Jim
And you please explain a bit more about:
The 4" holes under the ports, and
The two 1/4" holes into the ports

I may be a bit thick but I don't really see how these work.
BTW I'm sure I read in your post #21 about the 4" holes but can't see that text any more - something about keeping the heat away from the deck - did you edit that out?
Cheers
Rob
Click to expand...

I didn't edit anything out. There were no 4 inch holes.

The Fullauto head has raised floors on the exhaust ports. That means there is plenty of room under the floor of the port to drill a couple 1/4 inch holes that pass under the port. So the holes start between the fins in front of the exhaust ports and end between the fins outboard of the exhaust ports.
The passage runs parallel to and just behind the seal surface at the base of the exhaust threads.

The two holes I drilled in the center just allow a little more air into the finned area under the rockerbox.
 
Here is a shot with two pieces of welding rod passing through the two holes under the exhaust port.
And actually the holes are 7/32" because 1/4 inch would not quite fit between the fins.
I might add that this is totally experimental at this point. It should help but I have never tried it before.
Here we go again
 
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comnoz said:
They are great -once I got past the leak from the machining error.
Click to expand...

Dodgy Kiwi's.

There are million things in these pictures.
What might the intake insulator material be and that (oil?) fitting on the D/S cam tunnel end........... (edit, I just saw the braided line going to that fitting in the last picture)
 
May sound contrary to all other opinion's but if heat control is an issue why not try using E5 fuel, apparently it burns cooler. Maybe any reduction in performance in the use of E5 will be worth the sacrifice.
 
I like that type of connecting rods. I know they are probably chosen for stroker clearance but it looks like it another advantage would be the possibility to inspect crank journals/rod bearings without having to split the cases.
 
Madnorton said:
May sound contrary to all other opinion's but if heat control is an issue why not try using E5 fuel, apparently it burns cooler. Maybe any reduction in performance in the use of E5 will be worth the sacrifice.
Click to expand...

I have certainly looked at E85. But it is not available consistently across the country yet. I wouldn't expect a power loss. Just a big fuel mileage hit.
 
comnoz said:
I didn't edit anything out. There were no 4 inch holes.

The Fullauto head has raised floors on the exhaust ports. That means there is plenty of room under the floor of the port to drill a couple 1/4 inch holes that pass under the port. So the holes start between the fins in front of the exhaust ports and end between the fins outboard of the exhaust ports.
The passage runs parallel to and just behind the seal surface at the base of the exhaust threads.

The two holes I drilled in the center just allow a little more air into the finned area under the rockerbox.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim
Much better understanding of your endeavours now.
Cheers
Rob
 
Time Warp said:
Dodgy Kiwi's.

There are million things in these pictures.
What might the intake insulator material be and that (oil?) fitting on the D/S cam tunnel end........... (edit, I just saw the braided line going to that fitting in the last picture)
Click to expand...

The insulator is silk-epoxy composite or SFRP.
 
Always fun to see all the details. Should get a good test next week, right?

Ken
 
Nice job on the head fins Jim, the head looks good on there
One of the first changes Terry P made when pushing his Vincent type cylinders out from the standard 84 MM to 92 was to add about 30% more fin area to the barrel and head. He is in Oz so very aware of heat problems. He said if we are making more power we need more cooling.
It all seems to work.
He also uses an oil pump with double the standard output for increased engine cooling and more lube, especially to the cams and followers. No doubt you have already done mods there.

I'm hoping the Alloy barrel will help with cooling my 920, although there have been problems with Maney alloy barrels & liners getting hot spots, out of round etc after just a few thousand miles.
From what I have read, the interference fit being used between liner and cylinder might be a bit inadequate for thermal transfer.
I'm going with 5 thou interference.
All a bit of an experiment!

Glen
 
Re; “Since I have been having hot bike problems and I doubt the climate is going to change or the air is going to get denser I decided to add some more fin area to the Fullauto head. It had a little less fin area than an original head anyway. So I welded on an extra 3/4 inch of fin.”

I’m not saying this is a bad thing, but you sound like you require more airflow over the top half of the engine for cooling- IMO it would be better to fit L shaped wedges enclosed in a fairing – a bit like PW did with his Arter Matchless 500. (Wagon Wheels) this will create a “Ram Air” effect

Here’s the F750:

https://www.bing.com/images/search?....&selectedindex=198&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6
 
comnoz said:
I have certainly looked at E85. But it is not available consistently across the country yet. I wouldn't expect a power loss. Just a big fuel mileage hit.
Click to expand...

Jim have you experimented with airflow acroos the head? I note that when I fitted a cooler up tight on the down tubes in front of the head, the engine runs cooler even if it is out of circuit.. Can only assume that air passing underneath accelerates before it hits the head and takes more heat away. A counter intuitive consequence for had expected the head to be shielded and run slightly hotter
 
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