Good Thing I Have an Oil Pressure Gauge!

That doesn't mean they new what they were doing. I was a Chief there during the Rotary years and spent several enjoyable and profitable years trouble shooting engine design flaws, failures and anything else I could find to fix.
You must have been very busy. 👍
 
My go sealant is Permatex "The Right Stuff". Sets to the comnsistency of a rubber band. The only downside is that it can sometimes be tough to separate covers etc when it is used on the gasket. Is anyone familiar with it?

Sounds like Threebond 1184 is similar to it
I've used Right Stuff on a couple of Gen 1 SBC intakes at the valley ends (China walls some call them) without the cork gaskets. It is the only sealer that I can count on to seal well there on my Chevy engine. Sets very quickly can't dilly dally, and you have to drop the intake in place exactly where it belongs first time. I had to cut the Right Stuff with a very sharp putty knife and use a pry bar to get started removing the intake when I swapped heads and installed a roller cam.

I didn't use Right Stuff on the Norton. Thought about it couple of times. However, I knew I'd be back in there doing something and didn't want to fight with it. Fighting with Pliobond to remove the head on a Norton engine is also real fun.
 
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That doesn't mean they new what they were doing. I was a Chief there during the Rotary years and spent several enjoyable and profitable years trouble shooting engine design flaws, failures and anything else I could find to fix. If any of you has a Rotary bike, I did the work that led to the addition of molybdenum inserts in the rotor end plates.
Many of the staff there had worked at Norton for many years and I heard many horror stories, including how the final batch of Commandos were built.
And what part of 'some good some bad' implies I think they knew what they were doing?

What I said was, the parts need to match. They really do.
 
Okay - you guys have me converted - I am going to install a gauge, but I'm not a fan of "extra bits" hanging off handlebars, etc.
Mine has the cNw console with 2" volt meter. I'm thinking of replacing the volt meter with an electric pressure gauge (see below) with a sender unit under the tank. I've chosen Livorsi as that is the brand of volt meter that Matt installed and they have good reviews.
This set-up means no oil lines bending to-and-fro with handlebar movement.
Anyone tried this (or similar) or see any potential problems?
Cheers
 
Okay - you guys have me converted - I am going to install a gauge, but I'm not a fan of "extra bits" hanging off handlebars, etc.
Mine has the cNw console with 2" volt meter. I'm thinking of replacing the volt meter with an electric pressure gauge (see below) with a sender unit under the tank. I've chosen Livorsi as that is the brand of volt meter that Matt installed and they have good reviews.
This set-up means no oil lines bending to-and-fro with handlebar movement.
Anyone tried this (or similar) or see any potential problems?
Cheers
Looks good.
Don't have any experience with those items but do with Teague and can vouch that anything they sell is good stuff.
 
Okay - you guys have me converted - I am going to install a gauge, but I'm not a fan of "extra bits" hanging off handlebars, etc.
Mine has the cNw console with 2" volt meter. I'm thinking of replacing the volt meter with an electric pressure gauge (see below) with a sender unit under the tank. I've chosen Livorsi as that is the brand of volt meter that Matt installed and they have good reviews.
This set-up means no oil lines bending to-and-fro with handlebar movement.
Anyone tried this (or similar) or see any potential problems?
Cheers
Potential problems: the sending unit will (from vibration) break externally, break internally or break it's threads/adapters used to fit it.
Introducing an electrical device, adds another potential failure mode. (Like a poor connection altering the reading).

1/8" nylon tubing was used successfully for years, but the proper compression fittings proved a bit tough for laymen to get leak free.
The push connects are easy to fit, and the hose can be replaced periodically to avoid leakage.
 
Potential problems: the sending unit will (from vibration) break externally, break internally or break it's threads/adapters used to fit it.
You have seen this?
I was going to rubber mount it
Why will the vibration be worse on the sender than on a similarish complexity in the normal mechanical gauge.
I believe all IC cars made these days use senders and electric gauges - with overall improved reliability - no?

I'll wait for more comments before I push the button on being a guinea pig.
Cheers & thanks
 
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You have seen this?
I was going to rubber mount it
Why will the vibration be worse on the sender than on a similarish complexity in the normal mechanical gauge.
I believe all IC cars made these days use senders and electric gauges - with overall improved reliability - no?

Ill wait for more comments before I push the button on being a guinea pig.
Cheers & thanks
You go on ahead.😎🍻
You're correct.
The armchair engineers will be along soon to tell us the real story.
Meanwhile, I fix junk. Every day.
Million dollar junk.
And Chinese made junk.

JMWO


Edit: to rubber mount it, you mean to plumb flexible line from the engine to a chassis mounted sending unit?
 
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Okay - you guys have me converted - I am going to install a gauge, but I'm not a fan of "extra bits" hanging off handlebars, etc.
Mine has the cNw console with 2" volt meter. I'm thinking of replacing the volt meter with an electric pressure gauge (see below) with a sender unit under the tank. I've chosen Livorsi as that is the brand of volt meter that Matt installed and they have good reviews.
This set-up means no oil lines bending to-and-fro with handlebar movement.
Anyone tried this (or similar) or see any potential problems?
Cheers
The website shows MANY COLOR options for the face.....
Where are these gages made?

2" looks gharish on a bike, 1-1/4" is more common/proportionate.
Again, JMWO
 
Put this on after engine rebuild, never took it off. That was 15k miles ago

Good Thing I Have an Oil Pressure Gauge!
Good Thing I Have an Oil Pressure Gauge!
 
Yes - plus rubber mounting it to the frame
Well, that would solve the vibration situation. 👍🏻🏁

If you go to the effort to plumb a flexible line, I would offer, simply add 2' feet of line up to a mechanical gage.💡

JMWO


Serious question, what is the attraction to an electrical gage?
 
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I don't worry about a leak to the gauge , nice to use some AN-03 it's only going to have a pathetic 50-80 psi in it , dash .03 has a very high pressure rating , in black or shiny , i have found that mostly people who deal with electricity , like sparkys , tend to have electric lawn mowers , trimmers etc . 😗
Good Thing I Have an Oil Pressure Gauge!
 
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Serious question, what is the attraction to an electrical gage?
It all stems from not wanting "add-on" things on handlebars, etc. I think I may be on the spectrum;):rolleyes:
Matt's excellent console looked like a good place and the volt meter isn't critical so that looked a good spot.
That meant it had to be 2" dia and, unless I drilled a hole in the triple clamp, an oil line would not work (have not seen any with side feed)
Happened to look at the Livorsi site (volt meter is that brand and Matt always chooses good stuff) and the electrical gauge with remote sender is what they offer.
Not wedded to that solution hence my query in #105 above.
The sender is designed to be screwed into a marine engine so would have a very easy life on my bike.
I'll post which way I go when I decide 👍 👍
 
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It all stems from not wanting "add-on" things on handlebars, etc. I think I may be on the spectrum;):rolleyes:
Matt's excellent console looked like a good place and the volt meter isn't critical so that looked a good spot.
That meant it had to be 2" did and, unless I drilled a hole in the triple clamp, an oil line would not work (have not seen any with side feed)
Happened to look at the Livorsi site (volt meter is that brand and Matt always chooses good stuff) and the electrical gauge with remote sender is what they offer.
Not wedded to that solution hence my query in #105 above.
The sender is designed to be screwed into a marine engine so would have a very easy life on my bike.
I'll post which way I go when I decide 👍 👍
Thank you for indulging me.🍻
I forget sometimes the aesthetic factor.
Form follows function.
 
Fighting with Pliobond to remove the head on a Norton engine is also real fun.
That's why I like spray Coppercoat. It seals well but releases when disassembled. I've used it for years on all types of gaskets including head gaskets.
 
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