Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

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British cross-point screws are generally "Posidriv" (or Posidrive, or Pozi ) type, not "Phillips". Therefore Posidriv screws require Posidriv bits or screw drivers to be used.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


http://www.justbrits.com/pozi/pozidriv.html
 
HortonsNortons,'
I know they were stock Amal srews on the float bowls so wherever they source their hardware
is what was on the bowls stock. Not sure if a metric or other.
A shallower bit is definitely in order as you alluded to.
Posi drive huh? Now I know their official name.
Thanks,
Marshal
 
The standard Amal Concentric Mk1 float bowl and carb top screws have always been 2BA. I presume the new Mk1 castings have the same threads.
 
Now if you are into brit bikes there is a tool you need.
A single screw driver that is about 23.00 US dollars. King Dick makes it a #14610 called a one for six. It has a tip that fits all the posi drives on the bike. It will do the PZ and PH #1,#2 and #3 screws norrow hex shank nice handle.
A Super 2000 King Dick.
I have been told that Posi drives are an American invention adoped by the Brits so don't go blaming them.
 
Thanks to all those who have posted tips etc, I ahve just rebuilt my gearbox and found that top gear would not engage. I ahd followed th advice in the manual and old brits site but was one tooth out on the cam plate and quandrant. So, I reoved the gear cluster and loosely assembled the gearbox with the quadrant and camplate along with the plunger, and checked the gear selection so that the quadrant arm did not foul the inner cover aperture.
Another, thing that I found was that the mainsahft would tighten off even with the inner over fully bolted down, this found to be the kickstart shft not correctly locating in first gear. Lokking at it it would appaer that it would be impossible to get the inner cover on if that was the case, but easily rectified by placing the kickshaft shaft in the first gear and placing the inner cover over it, then operate kick start shaft so that it locates properly with the spring hole facing aft.
 
I hope you guys find this.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Gasket in place, no sealer yet.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Checking end float.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

If I remember how to read the analogs ones, I'd say .060

Pulled out all three rear iso shims...
Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


Seems like a lot of play. I guess the only option is to shim and pray with a little sealer it doesn't get too high.
 
Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


Sure didn't take much with the Dremel, just went around lightly for a minute or two. Then shims slipped right on.

So loaded up all the shims and tested the float again... none. Not good. Eventually found a combination which gave me .010in end play. Which is more than I was hoping for. Might try some more before finally buttoning it up.
 
Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Ended up using all the shims. Dunno why. But it did work. Just about .005 end play.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Clutch end buttoned up.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

And outer cover, wait, what's this? ARRGH! Kickstart bush is missing!!! Dangnabit... So sealing this up will still have to wait. Getting closer now.
 
In the photo, the clutch operating lever looks as if it's in the "dropped" position (just in case you weren't aware of that?).

swooshdave said:
Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Clutch end buttoned up.
Click to expand...
 
L.A.B. said:
In the photo, the clutch operating lever looks as if it's in the "dropped" position (just in case you weren't aware of that?).
Click to expand...

With no pushrod pushing, the lever will drop as there is nothing to hold it. Once everything is in place it'll get put to the correct position.
 
Why didn't you put new seals in it while you had it apart?

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Why didn't you put new seals in it while you had it apart?
Dave
69S
Click to expand...

More motivated to get it together than worry about seals. It's getting new O-rings. Hopefully they will last a while. If the O-rings don't work I'll try X-rings...
 
I had AMR do new style seals in my outer cover as DaveS did.
Always leaking on the new pipes and burning off.
Gotta get underneath and clean w/ chrome cleaner.
When the new cover is installed, hopefully it will be the last time I have to clean up the drool from the side cover.
EP90 burning off the pipe looks like your bike is going up in smoke.
Also SwooshDave don't forget to check the clutch actuator alignment before you button it up.
If you didn't mark it at dissassembly you may have to fiddle w/ alignment to get a desireable cable pull.
OldBritts article covers this excellent if you need a reference.
Coming together very nicely.
Looking forward to the youtube video of you doing a wheelie. 8)
Marshal
 
Other side is far from done, once I have the primary more together and actually get to the clutch I'll worry about the actuator.

The cover comes off pretty easy if she does get weepy.
 
Ok, this side of the gearbox is basically done. Mystery part from another thread ended up being the missing kickstart bush. Popped it back in along with a new O-ring. A new gasket with goop on one side and sealed it up with a set of allen screws I've been hauling around for 15 years. Phew.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


Next up here is the sprocket on the other side and I should be done with the tranny.

I am missing the pointer (I think) and the screw that holds it on. Dunno what I'm going to do there.\\

<added> Apparently with rearsets the pointer doesn't work out too well. I'll just have to suffer...
 
I try to thread the nut on but it won't go. It's on the far side and I'll have to flip the workbench around to get at it. It's not a funny thread, is it?

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

(It's just sitting on the shaft in the picture, hence the odd angle)
 
As ludwig has pointed out this is a L/H thread, but I assume that you were aware of that, It could explain why you are having a problem if you didn't know!
 
ludwig said:
I hope I don't offend you by pointing out it is LH thread ?
Click to expand...

To be honest I assumed so but since the primary is on the side of the bike facing the wall all I could do is reach around and try to fit it. Thanks.

Oh, and I made sure to try it both ways, neither worked...
 
Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


So I crawled around to get a better angle and no matter what I tried the nut would not go on. It looks like they didn't change the nut over the years. Any idea why it wouldn't go on?

It says it should be a 1 1/4-20 but using my thread gauge it sure didn't seem like 20tpi.
 
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