Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

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L.A.B. said:
swooshdave said:
using my thread gauge it sure didn't seem like 20tpi.
Click to expand...

24 tpi? (Triumph?)
Click to expand...

I forget what it was, wasn't 20, that's for sure. I thought it might be 26 but my gauge doesn't do 26 so I may not have tried 24, just 25 which was close.

There is one person who will know but he's between CA and TX right now...
 
And yet again I am cursed with the gearbox nut. I got another used one and it too doesn't want to go on. :evil:

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


The ID of the nut is 1.125in and the OD of the threaded area on the shaft is 1.25in. Both are 20tpi.

I have no idea what to do now. I think my only hope is to get a new one and see if that works. I'm starting to fear that the threads on the shaft may be causing me this headache. In that case I'm really screwed. :(
 
Dave, It won't slide all the way up to the threads? And sorry if this is obvious but it's a left hand thread.
 
Hortons Norton said:
Dave, It won't slide all the way up to the threads? And sorry if this is obvious but it's a left hand thread.
Click to expand...

Yes, it will slide to the threads. Yes, it is LH thread.
 
Dave, it will be a little more difficult to see because of the separation in the threads, but try to locate the starting thread on the shaft. Using the tail of a dial indicater may help to determine which one is closest to the butt of the shaft. You may have to get some needle files and freshen it up. Also the chamfer on the nut will go inboard toward the gear.
Side note, Even if it was the wrong thread, it would still try to start.
 
pvisseriii said:
Dave, it will be a little more difficult to see because of the separation in the threads, but try to locate the starting thread on the shaft. Using the tail of a dial indicater may help to determine which one is closest to the butt of the shaft. You may have to get some needle files and freshen it up. Also the chamfer on the nut will go inboard toward the gear.
Side note, Even if it was the wrong thread, it would still try to start.
Click to expand...

That was my next thing to try, clean up the threads.
 
Just in case,
you didn't forget that this huge nut is LH reverse threaded?

hobot
 
There are a lot of ways to tighten this nut, but very few to torque it.

Here's a handy item. Autozone sells these deep 1 1/2" sockets for 9.99. Cut off the unwanted portion with a chop saw, grind a little bevel and weld it up. Slap it on a torque wrench and bring that bad ass nut to its knees(80 ft lb). It is also nice for removing with an impact.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures
 
pvisseriii said:
There are a lot of ways to tighten this nut, but very few to torque it.

Here's a handy item. Autozone sells these deep 1 1/2" sockets for 9.99. Cut off the unwanted portion with a chop saw, grind a little bevel and weld it up. Slap it on a torque wrench and bring that bad ass nut to its knees(80 ft lb). It is also nice for removing with an impact.
Click to expand...

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I was told that there was no need to torque the sprocket nut because the keeper would hold it sufficiently.


Also, I've found my SKF NJ203ECP for the layshaft (same as CNW sells) but I'm having trouble sourcing the correct RLS 9 bearing for the inner mainshaft.
The only SKF available comes as 1-1/8 ID, but I need 1-1/4 ID. The only suitable replacement I can find is a NICE 1654DCTN with double contact seals and metal shields. This doesn't provide a strong enough seal and the OD is slightly too big (although advertised as identical).

Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I can get a RLS 9-2RS (or equivalent?)

Jeff
 
pvisseriii said:
There are a lot of ways to tighten this nut, but very few to torque it.

Here's a handy item. Autozone sells these deep 1 1/2" sockets for 9.99. Cut off the unwanted portion with a chop saw, grind a little bevel and weld it up. Slap it on a torque wrench and bring that bad ass nut to its knees(80 ft lb). It is also nice for removing wit
Click to expand...

Doesn't do me a damn bit of good if I can't get the nut to thread. :(
 
Two types of Commando infection fever,
getting to the second kind is why we endure the first kind, repeatedly.

Ugh, no tool needed till threads started.
Happened to me for a few days too,
but turned out I was turning the nut [bike's]
the wrong way, Smacckk *

If that's not it then must be buggered parts, which I'd
assume would be obvious on your frustrated inspection by now.
It is the in-famous fast wear inside sleeve gear, vital to
avoid clutch wobble, $oo.oo may be its goods news in the end.

Sleek stance to me viewing your cafe right off the bat, cool.

hobot
 
I took a needle file to the threads and did my best to clean up the starter threads. No luck. :(

My next option is a new nut.

Yes, I'm still turning it to the left.
 
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