Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

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So bad news, no nuts. So final assembly is still on hold.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Good news is that I now have a selection of rear iso shims at my disposal.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures

Meanwhile I did get some of the inner cover parts. Can someone tell me if this looks right?
 
You forgot the spring. Do you need some of the inner cover bolts or are you waiting on shipping? I have some if you need them, Chuck.
 
I'm going to put the bearings in after a 350 heat in the oven tomorrow. Have all the parts, Micks new super layshaft bearing and hopefully everything I need including "permatex sleeve retainer" for the sleeve bushings and the mainshaft bearing which was a bit loose. I'm going to use the permatex aircraft sealant liquid lightly on the gaskets. I hope this is a good idea. If everything goes smoothly (good luck) I'll be done by noon, kind of like watching Micks DVD. LOL.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
I'm going to put the bearings in after a 350 heat in the oven tomorrow. Have all the parts, Micks new super layshaft bearing and hopefully everything I need including "permatex sleeve retainer" for the sleeve bushings and the mainshaft bearing which was a bit loose. I'm going to use the permatex aircraft sealant liquid lightly on the gaskets. I hope this is a good idea. If everything goes smoothly (good luck) I'll be done by noon, kind of like watching Micks DVD. LOL.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

And you're going to take lots of pictures and post them here. Especially the inner and outer cover assembly!!!!!
 
What is the deal with the end play on the kick-start shaft. I have looked at OB site and they use the roller bearings in the lay-shaft instead of the ball which Mick recommends which then necessitates the end shaft shimming?? Mick's DVD doesn't even go into measuring the end-play as I remember? Or am I wrong? Do I need to check this endplay with the special Hemmings roller bearing layshaft bearing?

I could take some pictures, I'll see how it goes when the case is hot and I am trying to put those bearings in with the permatex on them.

Dave
69S
 
Dave, I wouldn't imagine you'll need to heat to 350 degrees. I've on occasion find that 250 isn't enough, but 275-300 has always done the job.

OTOH, I doubt the extra 50 degrees or so is gonna hurt anything.

IIRC, the shimming is LESS (or even "not") important with the Hemmings ball bearing than the roller, but perhaps someone else who knows for sure can comment. BK
 
BrianK said:
Dave, I wouldn't imagine you'll need to heat to 350 degrees. I've on occasion find that 250 isn't enough, but 275-300 has always done the job.

OTOH, I doubt the extra 50 degrees or so is gonna hurt anything.

IIRC, the shimming is LESS (or even "not") important with the ball bearing than the roller, but perhaps someone else who knows for sure can comment. BK
Click to expand...

Yeah, you can search here and find out more. Try "layshaft".
 
Well, upon dis-assembly, I could not get the layshaft bearing out with 250 with lots of banging on a piece of wood. Had to make up a puller and with a bit of heat from a propane torch it came out. Thinking that I really don't want to have problems getting the bearings in, so I am going to try 300 to start with and the bearings on the shafts in the freezer. See how it goes. I'll let you all know for sure after tomorrow. This will be exciting.

Dave
69S
 
Dave, if you've got a torch, why even bother with the oven? I used a torch to get all bearings/bushings in and out and had no issues. Much more convenient, as you can "spot heat" and do everything on the bench instead of running to and fro from the kitchen. I have zero doubt an oven will work at least as well, but just doesn't seem necessary.

Best of luck. - B
 
DogT said:
What is the deal with the end play on the kick-start shaft. I have looked at OB site and they use the roller bearings in the lay-shaft instead of the ball which Mick recommends which then necessitates the end shaft shimming??

Mick's DVD doesn't even go into measuring the end-play as I remember? Or am I wrong? Do I need to check this endplay with the special Hemmings roller bearing layshaft bearing?
Click to expand...

There has been some differences of opinion in the past about the need to shim the layshaft, and whether the amount of shaft end-play is actually critical or not? With the Hemmings ball bearing fitted, you may find there isn't all that much shaft end-play, and my own Commando's box is fitted with the Hemmings bearing and there is practically no end-play with no shims, and as Mick usually prefers to fit the ball bearing over the roller, that could be the reason why he doesn't mention the subject, or he may also think that shimming isn't entirely necessary, I don't know?
 
Brian,

I tried the torch to get the bearings out and I was not too successful. I'm just thinking that the oven may get it a bit warmer overall, it's not much of a problem, I don't want to fight it if necessary, I'd like the bearings to go in like Mick's in his DVD, just pop them in and that's that.

Dave
60S
 
Yeah, oven will work fine Dave. I did the Norton with a torch but I've done a bunch of other projects using the oven and it worked great. 275-300* always seemed to be the ideal temp for aluminum parts. Best of luck. - Brian
 
L.A.B. said:
DogT said:
What is the deal with the end play on the kick-start shaft. I have looked at OB site and they use the roller bearings in the lay-shaft instead of the ball which Mick recommends which then necessitates the end shaft shimming??

Mick's DVD doesn't even go into measuring the end-play as I remember? Or am I wrong? Do I need to check this endplay with the special Hemmings roller bearing layshaft bearing?
Click to expand...

There has been some differences of opinion in the past about the need to shim the layshaft, and whether the amount of shaft end-play is actually critical or not? With the Hemmings ball bearing fitted, you may find there isn't all that much shaft end-play, and my own Commando's box is fitted with the Hemmings bearing and there is practically no end-play with no shims, and as Mick usually prefers to fit the ball bearing over the roller, that could be the reason why he doesn't mention the subject, or he may also think that shimming isn't entirely necessary, I don't know?
Click to expand...

If you use the roller bearing the inner race is a tight fit on the layshaft and is not attached to the bearing. It can float.

With a ball bearing the bearing is "one piece", nowhere for the layshaft to go. So no need to shim.
 
Got the bearings in this morning.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


The bearing in the inner cover just dropped in after heating the case in the oven and cooling the bearing in the freezer. The layshaft bearing went in, same method with a small amount of persuasion. The mainshaft bearing went in hard. Probably because I put sleeve retainer on it and I think the heat made the stuff set up fast. Interesting because the mainshaft bearing came out when I started knocking the sleeve gear out. But they are all in.

Then I put the bushings with sleeve retainer in the sleeve gear, and the mainshaft was very, very tight in the bearings. I spent the rest of the morning polishing with 600 and then some polishing compound until the gear was a free fit on the mainshaft. Now I have just put the mainshaft and the layshaft in and popped the outer cover on just to make sure I have the bearings in all the way and things will go together.

I need to get some EP90 before I button everything up.

Dave
69S
 
Not much happening with the gearbox aside from getting it into the cradle and such.

I was going through some boxes and found this.

Gearbox Teardown with plenty of pictures


I honestly have no idea when I bought these. Not a bad price considering the are funny-thread-size... Anyways, damned if I don't need them. One less thing to buy. :mrgreen:
 
Swoosh,
I also bought a complete set of allen heads for the bike from an on line vendor made by Wassel.
I can't remember who sold the whole set off the top of my head. For that matter I can't remember much of anything off the
top of my head lately.
I kenw that when I go to remove the infomous cheese head screws from the outer trans cover they are probably going to get
wasted by the impact driver. Mine have never been off since Wolverhampton put them on.
Plus you will be able to use a modern key on your torque wrench and get them cinched down evenly.
I'm attending a April ride and then my gearbox is going under the knife.
Thanks for all the supporting info. Your teardown has been an excellent source for me to follow.
Marshal
 
MarshalNorton said:
I kenw that when I go to remove the infomous cheese head screws from the outer trans cover they are probably going to get
wasted by the impact driver. Mine have never been off since Wolverhampton put them on.
Click to expand...

If you use the exact right bit they may not be bad. Unfortunately there are several "Phillips" style screwdrivers and even if you have every size and variation, when you need to remove something you'll find that there is one you don't have.
 
SwooshDave,
I learned that when I went to remove the carb bowl screws w/ a traditional US screw driver.
The current screw drivers are too pointed at the tip. The screws require a less pronounced
point. I just changed the over to allen heads.
I'll keep you posted on my progress when I rip into the box.
I may need some advice along the way.
Marshal
 
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