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Frankenbike

Discussion in 'Norton Motorcycle Rebuilds' started by Norcoastal, Dec 13, 2019.

  1. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    Another newbie question.

    I’ve stripped, primed and painted the triple trees the correct silver and installed my fork legs.

    I tightened the bottom nut as tight as I could get it. The problem is that there is about a 1\4” play with the fork ears?

    I checked the manual and there isn’t a washer or spacer that I’m missing that I can see.

    With all of this isolastics and energy put into no vibrations, I find it odd that the fork ears have that much play.

    What am I missing?
     
  2. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    Never mind. I just double checked the manual again and what I thought was referencing the spring inside the tube was actually two O-Rings that sit in the fork leg presumably to eliminate the slop in the fork ears. I guess the legs got to come back off.
     
  3. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    There should be three O-rings (two below and one above) the bracket tube on each side.
     
  4. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    Thanks, my next frustration is where to find them?

    I just searched three of the “known” parts suppliers and the part number 061900 or 06-1900 come up with “no parts match”.

    Any advice or suggestions?
     
  5. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2020
  6. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2020
  7. htown16

    htown16

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    They can be a right pia to install. If you try to push the fork leg up through the fork ear with the orings assembled and the triple tree tight, the orings will slide out of place. Best way I've found is to leave the triple trees loose enough to do the following. Feed the fork leg up through the bottom triple tree, then slide two of the orings over the fork leg. Now slide the fork ear into place. Push the fork leg up through the ear and put the last oring over the fork leg. Now start the leg up into the top tree a bit. Tighten the pinch bolt on the bottom tree to hold it in place. Repeat the process on the other side. Now tighten the bolt at the bottom of the tree to bring the upper and lower in place and torque. Now you can loosen the pinch bolts and slide the legs all the way up into the top tree. Install the large fork nuts by first treading them on to the top of the rod through the fork springs. Now torque down the fork nuts then torque the pinch bolts.
     
  8. gortnipper

    gortnipper VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2013
    Smear the orings with a bit of very sticky grease, it will help keep them in place for assembly.
     
  9. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. I’ll let you know how it goes when the o rings arrive.
     
  10. Richard Tool

    Richard Tool

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2019
    Hi Steve - be sure to read through page 5 of Ben’s Interstate Rebuild in this forum regarding assembly of the yokes and headlamp brackets to avoid additional pit falls.
     
    Norcoastal likes this.
  11. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    Some small parts have been coming and I’m done touching up the frame. Yokes are stripped and painted and all aluminum has been polished. If it needs a new a bolt, it’s new British stainless.

    Today the center stand came so now I have the cradle, swing arm, center stand and side stand.I’ll sand blast these when my cabinet comes next week ( my son got it for me for Christmas), then they’ll be primed and painted.

    It’s come a long way since a bare frame.

    PS: unintentional advertising with the white sticker. I noticed it after I took these pictures. Not sure who it is, but I thought it looked cool and it came with parts


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2020
  12. gortnipper

    gortnipper VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2013
    Be sure to do the drilling for the Kegler mod on the swingarm before you blast and paint it.

    You dont really need the jig.

     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2020
  13. johnm

    johnm VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008
    Perhaps a bit late to say this but it's worth while looking at the Worlds Straightest Commando article. Nine out of ten swinging arms are twisted and it's definitely a good idea machining the isolastic tubes square so the clearance can be accurate. Also a good aftermarket head steady is worth the money. I have a Dave Taylor but most vendors have other options as well. They really improve steering in corners and very noticeable on roundabouts.

    Check you forks are straight and parallel. Fork yokes are commonly bent.

    Check wheel alignment. The front wheel rim should be central between the forks.

    I did all this and found twists and misalignment everywhere. On a bike that showed no sign of frame damage.
     
  14. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    I’ll check it out, thanks
     
  15. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    All great advice, thanks
     
  16. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    Little setback with the cradle, but it’s getting there...

    [​IMG]diesel near me
     
  17. jbruney

    jbruney

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2019
    Step by step....
     
    Norcoastal likes this.
  18. NPeteN

    NPeteN

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2018
    Feels good don't it? Throw the seat on and climb aboard.
     
  19. Norcoastal

    Norcoastal

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2016
    It sure does, I have a lead on some rims. When I get the bike on the ground, I’ll be pumped.

    Not too far away!
     
  20. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    If original Dunlop, make sure they are the correct rims.

    The front disc rim should be stamped (WM2-19) 'MC275' or MC288.
    The drum rear rim should be (WM2-19) MB41.
     

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