Forks (2007)

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L.A.B. said:
.....then tap the stem upwards with a mallet or hammer and wood block, the yokes should then come off fairly easily.

The head bearings are a sealed *ball* bearing type, these bearings cannot be adjusted, the tightness of the lower stem nut does not affect bearing adjustment.
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That is what I needed to know. Thanks! I removed the nut and washer from the yoke assembly but I didn't want to start bashing at things before I asked you guys.

Thanks again.
 
Should I be hitting downward on the bottom yoke with a rubebr mallet or hammer and block of wood?

Those fork yokes of mine are going nowhere when I hit upwards on the bottom of the stem with a wooden block and hammer.

I did spray some penetrating oil so maybe by tomorrow things will loosen up a bit.
 
looks as though I need new fork tubes. One is shot and the other is fine but I might as well buy a pair.
 
Coco said:
looks as though I need new fork tubes. One is shot and the other is fine but I might as well buy a pair.
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Bummer. I had to spend the $100 USD for a pair. How are your damper rods? Have you checked them out yet? I had to replace these as well.

wrench
 
wrench said:
Coco said:
looks as though I need new fork tubes. One is shot and the other is fine but I might as well buy a pair.
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Bummer. I had to spend the $100 USD for a pair. How are your damper rods? Have you checked them out yet? I had to replace these as well.

wrench
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The originall damper rods aren't that bad but I have all new aluminum ones from Clubman I'm putting in so by the time I'm done I can safely assume that I've shaved a few pounds off the front end.

I got a pair of brand new Norton fork tubes for $167.00 CDN from Walridge which I thought was a decent price. I ordered them today and should have them by Friday.

I still can't get those damn yokes off. :evil:
 
Coco, the yokes are not usually a problem if the stanchions are out.

Have you tried turning the lower yoke against the lock-stops and giving the top yoke a whack with a hide mallet ? It should move a bit further and once it moves a bit, you should be able to worry it back and forth until it loosens.

Once the lower yoke is off, then you'll have to drift the stem upwards. It might be a good idea to put the nut back on but backed off a couple of turns to protect the thread.
 
79x100 said:
Coco, the yokes are not usually a problem if the stanchions are out.

Have you tried turning the lower yoke against the lock-stops and giving the top yoke a whack with a hide mallet ? It should move a bit further and once it moves a bit, you should be able to worry it back and forth until it loosens.

Once the lower yoke is off, then you'll have to drift the stem upwards. It might be a good idea to put the nut back on but backed off a couple of turns to protect the thread.
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I tried something similar with a dead blow hammer. Maybe I'm just being too gentle as I am concerned with bending something.
 
They're not Featherbed bottom yokes and I'm not suggesting using a sledge hammer ! :) I can't imagine any sort of normal wallop doing any damage.

One well-aimed blow is worth a thousand little taps and all that !
 
Before I mount the rebuilt forks I was having a look at my steering head bearings. They seem okay. Anyway, how do I test to see if they need replacement or not? Obviously now would be the time to do it.

Also, after my trees come back from the powder coater, what is recommended to lubricate the stem with before installation?

Thanks in advance.

wrench
 
wrench said:
how do I test to see if they need replacement or not? Obviously now would be the time to do it.
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If you can feel any roughness when the bearings are turned, or if there was any play felt when pulling and pushing on the forks with the wheel removed (or off the floor), then they would need to be changed, otherwise I wouldn't bother. I would grease the stem before refitting it.
 
79x100 said:
They're not Featherbed bottom yokes and I'm not suggesting using a sledge hammer ! :) I can't imagine any sort of normal wallop doing any damage.

One well-aimed blow is worth a thousand little taps and all that !
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I got them off no problem after a bit of fussing about.

Now, I need to get the steering lock out. How does one do it?

I noticed there is no through hole to knock out the roll pin holding the lock tumbler in the yoke. Does one have to drill it out or just kncok it inward and hope it falls through into the tumbler cavity in the yoke?
 
Coco said:
Now, I need to get the steering lock out. How does one do it?
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Coco--

Just tap it out from the underside. I expected it to catch on something, but it didn't. No problemo.

wrench
 
L.A.B. said:
If you can feel any roughness when the bearings are turned, or if there was any play felt when pulling and pushing on the forks with the wheel removed (or off the floor), then they would need to be changed, otherwise I wouldn't bother. I would grease the stem before refitting it.
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Thanks L.A.B. Bearings appear to be in good working order. Nice to know something on this bike doesn't need replaced.

Cheers--

w/
 
I knew somewhere in this thread there was a Covenant discussion going on. For 9 yrs I've used ATF and put the conversion in 4 yrs ago with little effect on the clanking at full extension. At the same time I replaced stanchions and the aluminum caps and control rods. Well I just drained the full 150cc from each leg and replaced with 10/40 semi-syn engine oil. What a difference, no matter what I do I can't make the forks top out and the action has smoothed out so much. Before, they were always a lttle rough even with new bushes etc. It's definitely worth a try in my book. On the road they feel better with less dive under braking (also have RGM's low cost progressive springs.
 
wrench said:
Coco said:
Now, I need to get the steering lock out. How does one do it?
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Coco--

Just tap it out from the underside. I expected it to catch on something, but it didn't. No problemo.

wrench
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I simply smacked it out with a bolt around the same size and just broke the roll pin. I seriously doubt I'll ever put the lock back in anyway.
 
wrench said:
Coco--

Just tap it out from the underside.
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Certainly not recommended for 850 MkIIIs, (as Coco's is) because the MkIII lock is fitted into the underside of the top yoke and has to be knocked downwards to remove it as I think Coco has now done.
 
In looking at other Commandos (on Ebay, for example), I'm now wondering if my trees were powdercoated the wrong color. I don't necessarily dislike them - they look mucho cleaner and professional - but they seem to be leaning toward a muddy gray silver rather than a metallic-looking silver.

Forks (2007)

I can't make up my mind if they are too much of a contrast with the fork tubes and chrome bars (and now highly polished instrument holders) and if I should just have them redone in a more metallic-type paint. Any feedback would be welcome.

Cheers.

wrench
 
The original finish was a rather thin and brightish silver and powdercoat is different, not least because it covers up a lot of the rough-cast finish. If silver powdercoat is rubbed, it seems to go even greyer.

I wouldn't think that you need to get the yokes refinished as you have a good protective base coat which you can leave. A tin of the aerosol paint sold for tarting-up steel car wheels should be quite close to factory finish.
 
79x100 said:
The original finish was a rather thin and brightish silver and powdercoat is different, not least because it covers up a lot of the rough-cast finish. If silver powdercoat is rubbed, it seems to go even greyer.

I wouldn't think that you need to get the yokes refinished as you have a good protective base coat which you can leave. A tin of the aerosol paint sold for tarting-up steel car wheels should be quite close to factory finish.
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A nifty plan 'o action, 79. Cheers to you for the advice.

wrench
 
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