How to polish the chromed fork tubes without taking them off the bike ?

I am rebuilding my forks and pulled everything out by jacking up my bike and leaving the forks in place.
I would like to polish the fork tubes that are still attached to the bike.
It looks extremely labour intensive as I think I don't want to use 2000 wet/dry paper on it which leaves me only using chrome polish.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

Always grateful and with thanks

Dennis
Vancouver
Use some 3000 grit and you will find they won't dull , get the high spots of , and have you tried the cheap felt angle grinder discs you can buy great with autosol or compound buy at least two, one for final buff .
 
tried this, worked gd

Takes the raised rust blisters off, but the pitting in the chrome remains.

A good trick if a seller wants to conceal rust damage.

I filled the pitting with cold galvanize paint on my beater bike. Holding so far.

How to polish the chromed fork tubes without taking them off the bike ?
 
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Really interesting. Would it look decent for things like footrests and rear brake levers?

Looks redneck as hell.

It filled the pits to allow seals to slide by, if only for a little while and stop the continuation/recurrence of rust.
 
@L.A.B. & @ludwig were right in calling out my post #12 above regarding limited damping on short Roadholders.
I have gone back through old information and what I should have said is there is no hydraulic bump stop for fully extended and compressed conditions.
The paper below (now in Resources) describes this in detail as well as how the Covenant Conversion fixes it plus how to do it.
Cheers
Norton Roadholders - The Hole Story

Atlantic Green (Dynodave) also has a briefer document that covers this.
 
I believe this still requires blocking & redrilling of damper body holes

That's a compression damping mod. Although I've done it I can't see what it is supposed to achieve.
 
From what I had read online, I had assumed that if there are holes through the lowest extremes of the damper tubes, then blanking them off and redrilling them slightly higher up, provides a small oil reservoir at full compression for damping purposes, n'est-ce pas?,
Or did I read that wrong?
 
From what I had read online, I had assumed that if there are holes through the lowest extremes of the damper tubes, then blanking them off and redrilling them slightly higher up, provides a small oil reservoir at full compression for damping purposes, n'est-ce pas?,
Or did I read that wrong?

Where the holes are below the taper in the early damper tubes I can understand but not in the taper of the later dampers.
 
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