First gear jumps out in neutral

Edfury828 said:
Well, so much for the sticky plate theory, doh! How about the measurements in these pics? Do they indicate a bad stack height?

In my uncertainty about that and the mixed disc types I decided to replace all and hopefully assure a good result. I was torn as to which way was best. If I had a full set either disc type I would have been more likely to try and set up the stack. Extra money in my pocket contributed to the decision!
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You need to remove the plates and measure the stack height http://atlanticgreen.com/clutchpak.htm
 
Thanks, LAB! Being new at this I didn't notice at first, but those tangs are really worn! I wonder why it would only be on the one disc? More importantly, I am now concerned as to the condition of my Clutch Center. The 3 indentations on each of the cogs look uniform all around, so I am hopeful that it is OK. Any thoughts on that?
 

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Does the clutch release OK and also hold without slipping under full acceleration in top gear?
If so I would carry on.
Those are considerable notches though.
A new centre wouldn't be a bad thing, if the budget permits.

Glen
 
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Edfury828 said:
I wonder why it would only be on the one disc?
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The Barnett plates are alloy so they wear the tangs. The 'bronze' plates are steel.

Edfury828 said:
I am now concerned as to the condition of my Clutch Center. The 3 indentations on each of the cogs look uniform all around, so I am hopeful that it is OK. Any thoughts on that?
Click to expand...

That's worn and should be replaced.
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The budget does permit! If I need a clutch center I will get one ordered. Not knowing any better, it looked to me that the center was made with the indentations and that it was normal. I wanted to run it by you guys to learn if that was right.

I just bought an all new clutch kit, so I want to do the job right.

Ed
 
New clutch center ordered with bearing (which I probably don't need) inner and outer circlips as well as mainshaft circlip and main shaft nut. I don't think I would need the spacer?

I have read of the factory manual torque spec of 70 lbs ft for the center nut, which if followed damages the circlip, are there any other parts which I should consider? I know the previous owner had all this apart at least once, maybe others have also over time.
 
I think some like below suggest a torque of less as below

CLUTCH TO MAINSHAFT NUT:

The factory torque setting for this nut is 70 ft lb., however this torque setting runs the risk of breaking the clutch locating circlip (06-0752). It is recomended that you use locktight on this nut and torque to 35 or 40 ft lb. If you do want to use 70 ft lb. you should use a new circlip each time this nut is removed.
 
I used 70ft lb, before I knew of this advice. Been fine, so far, 7,000 miles on.
 
DennisMo said:
I think some like below suggest a torque of less as below

CLUTCH TO MAINSHAFT NUT:

The factory torque setting for this nut is 70 ft lb., however this torque setting runs the risk of breaking the clutch locating circlip (06-0752). It is recomended that you use locktight on this nut and torque to 35 or 40 ft lb. If you do want to use 70 ft lb. you should use a new circlip each time this nut is removed.
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And throw the tab washer away and use loctite instead
 
I have tossed the tab washer! I think I'll have to lose the flat washer that goes under the nut too in order to achieve enough exposed thread for the pushrod seal nut. Or, I could take a little material off the nut, making it thinner? Either way, it's blue locktite for sure! I'll know more upon assembly. Andover just shipped so hopefully not too long to the Left Coast, USA.

Now I'm wondering about my sprag (in picture). I've read that the dog bone pieces should be leaning over at an angle. Can anyone see if it's good or bad?

I am also wondering if anyone happens to know what threads are in the two holes for the crankshaft sprocket puller? They appear to be 5/16" but I had trouble finding bolts that felt right threading in.

Thank you in advance for your help!
Ed
 

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Edfury828 said:
Now I'm wondering about my sprag (in picture). I've read that the dog bone pieces should be leaning over at an angle. Can anyone see if it's good or bad?
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"The sprag bearing (06-4733) is inserted into the drive sprocket next with the flange side going in first."

Edfury828 said:
I am also wondering if anyone happens to know what threads are in the two holes for the crankshaft sprocket puller? They appear to be 5/16" but I had trouble finding bolts that felt right threading in.
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Yes, 5/16" UNF.
 
Thanks L.A.B.! I'll pick up some new 5/16" UNF bolts with the correct length for my puller an the way home from work.

Great article too. (Could be time to explore the Old Britts archive) Looking forward to further inspection tonight!
 
Having obtained proper bolts for my crankshaft gear puller, I was able to inspect the mating surfaces of the sprag on the gears. I think they're OK? The dark areas on the crank gear could not be felt. I'm thinking it may have some wear, but is serviceable?

I put the assembly together in my hand (with sprag flange inward) and found that it rotated freely clockwise, but immediately locked when rotated counter clockwise.

Unless advised otherwise, I will (momentarily) stop spending money and reassemble with these parts when my new clutch set, center hub, bearing and hardware arrive.
 

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I will be replacing my original Prestolite starter with an 06-4791B from Dyno-Dave soon. I am hoping these gears are up to the added strain of the more powerful starter?

I have also read something about the speed of rotation being a potential problem for first start up. Some say they use the kicker for that, then the button afterword. Does anyone know why? What happens or could happen if you cold start with an 06-4791B?

Ed
 
If it's the original split-case sprag...
First gear jumps out in neutral


...then (from personal experience, pic below) I suggest you replace it with the later type.

First gear jumps out in neutral
 
I've been coldstarting my MK3 with the estart for years now, no problem. It does have the 4 brush conversion on the stock starter and it has heavier than stock battery cables.
If it has been sitting for a long time I will charge the battery first. If the battery is up where it should be, no problem.
If the battery is a bit low and there isn't time for charging, then I would use the Kickstart for that first start only.
I have the older type Boyer which does not work well for estarting with a low battery.
Some say that this should be replaced with a newer type EI which will work at lower voltage. That's not a bad idea, but I haven't found it to be necessary.
It is best to have the battery right up in any case as the Sprag hooks in properly with a full battery.
The manuals for my modern Triumphs warn about possible damage to those sprags from attempts to start on a low battery.

Glen
 
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Which brand of later type sprag did you get L.A.B.? I would like to order a really good one that could be used with my existing gears, if advisable. That's the one with 18 "dog-bones"?

Glen,
I see now, it makes sense that you just need a fully charged battery for e-start operation, thanks!

I had trouble starting when I first got my new Commando home due to confusion with the choke. After cranking it repeatedly, it started to make a gear grinding sound when I pushed the button. I was hoping that just meant low battery, but didn't know. That's one reason I was relieved to see all was well with my gears last night, lol!

Ed
 
Edfury828 said:
Which brand of later type sprag did you get L.A.B.?
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It's so long ago (1999) I can't remember where I got it (Norvil or Mick Hemmings probably) but it's the 18 sprag type. I think the AliExpress ones are fine.
 
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