Final Proddy Build

So the key component came back with me from the Barber trip, the clip ons.

So I decided to tear into the front end tonite. Now a smart person would have waited until they had the gaiters. Well, you know where this is going...


Here's the before, in case you'd forgotten.


I then jacked up the front and used tie downs to suspend the bike from the ceiling. It worked better than I thought.


I was determined to not disconnect the brake line although I will at some point to shorten the line and put a banjo fitting on it. I had to loosen the lower yoke to get the headlight ears off. Someone remind me to tighten that back up, will ya'?


Here's the front end with master cylinder propped up out of the way.


I cut a piece of inner tube to cushion the VIN plate (yes, Les, I know it's not really a VIN…)


Fitting the fairing bracket. Everything will be loose until the fairing is set. At least that's how I think it should be done.


Mating up the front end. Noticed I actually remember to fit the clip ons first.



Transferring the controls. (Sorry for the crappy pictures).


Back on the ground. So glad to have gotten rid of those horrible Honda bars.


Turning radius is virtually nil. With my short little arms I have to rest my big gut on the tank to reach the bars. But it looks cool! :mrgreen:

There's just enough wiring to the headlight so that worked. The brake line is way too long. I don't know if I can get away with the throttle cable, it might be ok. I have to see where the speedo and tach cables end up, they may be ok too.

I think the next step is to line up the fairing with the headlight and then finalize the fairing bracket location. Then I think I start messing with the bars and see if I'll have any clearance for the master cylinder. Then just fiddle with all the controls and instruments. Probably the last thing that will go on is the windshield. Then just wait 8 months for the sun to come out so I can take it for a spin.

Dave
You seem to have developed a tolerance for the butt buster seat so I'll hope you can take laying forward all day too.
You're a tougher guy than me for sure.
I doubt if you'll wait eight months to ride it.

Bob

Looks Nice , But yellow is very much in evidance in your garadge . Why there was a nice light battleship grey P.R. :shock:
in attendance in the paddock often at the Classic Races in N.Z. .Metallic brown or black would be equally confuseing .

Seeing yellow is high vis . I guess we'll have to get used to it . If you wear white gloves when working on it , youll know if its dirty . :roll: :mrgreen: .

swooshdave said:

Turning radius is virtually nil. ... But it looks cool!

Click to expand...

Sure does and you get used to the turning circle, you just learn to take your time.
What make is the fairing bracket may I ask? Looks like a serious bit of kit.

Do the bars contact the tank on full lock? if so then it would be a good idea to modify the steering stops to prevent this, as it very easy to end up with a dented tank. Alloy tanks designed for use with clip on bars often have indents pressed in to overcome this problem, and it worth while getting one of these if clip on bars are going to be used.

You just keep your Thumbs between the tank & bars . , ouch . yea , you dont want to ding that tank , might have to fix something temporary.Maybe the steering damper would do it ? but the mount wouldnt want to shift . After serious :shock:
contemplation , Ive decided you should paint it MAGENTA . Both high vis , unique , and classey . However some refer to it
as pink . This is not correct . :roll: its a mid shade of purple , or Plum . :wink: 70s Chrysler U.S. & Aus Hi Po colour . :lol:

If the bars contact the tank then its not advisable to use the bike until this has been rectified, as anything which deflects the steering when riding, may well cause riders hands to get crushed between tank and bars, and then to lose grip on the bars. Here in the UK any bike with bars which contact the tank would fail the annual MOT test.

I was just going to say good luck getting your stock Master cylinder into a place that allows the brake handle into a good place but the remembered your fairing mount moves the head light out of the way. I've ridden all my Nortons with clippons and even when I was a teenager it hurt after some miles, now in my 50's I'm thinking of trying a set of those Tomaselli adjustable kind that give a bit of lift. You will find those bars put a lot of weight on your wrists & it will hurt after a bit. Looks cool but hard to pay that price on long rides. I can't choose to use higher bars due to a lower back injury so I have allways ridden this way but it can be a pain, enjoy. Looks fun Swoosh.

That's a factory Proddy Racer mounting bracket. It's biggest drawback is that the fork tops contact the meters, making THEM your expensive steering stops unless you work out something else like the clamp-on varienty that strike the frame downtubes.

I got the factory master cylinder to JUST work, with the end fitting brushing past the tach cable.

Handlebars are well clear of the tank by the time the fork tops hit the meters.

Looks good, Dave...but be prepared for much less comfortable riding. Also, not sure if it makes a significant difference or not, but with that setup the brake fluid reservoir doesn't sit level. Here's a few suggestions:

1. I think you'd be much much happier with the Tomaselli clipons. Made all the difference for me.
2. If you decide to keep the ones you have, consider purchasing a "wrist saver" device that allows you to give your right hand some rest from time to time...resting the left one is easy of course.
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3. And, most importantly....call your broker and invest in "Advil" stock :lol:

swooshdave said:

l. With my short little arms I have to rest my big gut on the tank to reach the bars. But it looks cool! :mrgreen:

Click to expand...

Funny you should say that. I was at the Ducati dealer a while ago and some Harley rider was looking at a Sport Classic. They have a very aggressive riding position, really stretched out with low clipons. The guy said something like "I don't know about having to rest my belly on the tank like that" :mrgreen:

Enjoy the new position. I hope your neck and back are in better shape than mine are. :?

Debby

I really can't see you living with this, going out on your extended Oregonian countryside rides. Could this possibly be a pre-sale maneuver?
Even a drag bar, stock seat and rearset gets old in a hurry if not doing 75+.

Ah, the wonderful thing about a Commando is that you won't have to sell it if you decide you want a roadster or an interstate. You just have to buy more pieces! Sort of like a Barbie for motorcyclists.

Carbonfibre said:

Do the bars contact the tank on full lock? if so then it would be a good idea to modify the steering stops to prevent this, as it very easy to end up with a dented tank. Alloy tanks designed for use with clip on bars often have indents pressed in to overcome this problem, and it worth while getting one of these if clip on bars are going to be used.

Click to expand...

Since it's apparent you don't know much about Nortons, let me fill you in on something: this is the Production Racer configuration, the setup is designed to go together, so no, the handlebars won't hit the tank.

rvich said:

Ah, the wonderful thing about a Commando is that you won't have to sell it if you decide you want a roadster or an interstate. You just have to buy more pieces! Sort of like a Barbie for motorcyclists.

Click to expand...

Ah, finally someone with some common sense. Well, maybe more like Mr. Potatohead than Barbie… but I'm sure it gets lonely in AK. :mrgreen:

swooshdave said:

Carbonfibre said:

Do the bars contact the tank on full lock? if so then it would be a good idea to modify the steering stops to prevent this, as it very easy to end up with a dented tank. Alloy tanks designed for use with clip on bars often have indents pressed in to overcome this problem, and it worth while getting one of these if clip on bars are going to be used.

Click to expand...

Since it's apparent you don't know much about Nortons, let me fill you in on something: this is the Production Racer configuration, the setup is designed to go together, so no, the handlebars won't hit the tank.

Click to expand...

If the bars dont hit the tank then no problem..............good luck with the racing.

Swooshdave,
I've just spent Friday looking round the British Motorcycle Museum and your bike has a double on show yellow with a matt alloy tank. The clip-ons didn't look too close to the tank either.

Sorry no photo I forgot the darn camera.

Cash

It's lookin good. I found once I built up new muscles in my neck and shoulders the riding position was great. It took a few months before I quit getting fatigued. Turning radius? Not a problem, just crank the bars and lean it over till you just about fall then release the clutch. Bikes turn fast when you're on the sides of the tires.

cash said:

Swooshdave,
I've just spent Friday looking round the British Motorcycle Museum and your bike has a double on show yellow with a matt alloy tank. The clip-ons didn't look too close to the tank either.

Sorry no photo I forgot the darn camera.

Cash

Click to expand...

Which museum? The Birmingham one?

Just a bit of clearance for the master cylinder. I did move the front brake switch and brake line to get more turning radius. As Paul said the instruments are the stops.
I have some ideas around adding material to the fork stops. I think that will work.


I added some o-rings to the instrument mounts to give them some isolation. Not sure if that needed as the stock ones are not.








I need to get some hardwear to mount the windscreen. The hardware and side mounts are missing. They were lost in transport when my uncle brought the pieces from NC. We think they may be in Arizona, where they stopped at their winter home on the way back. In the meantime I'll put some temporary stuff in. I'll make some side brackets like Paul did.

I also need to figure out how much to shorten the brake line. I think all the other control cables will be ok.

The headlight switch is still on the headlight shell. I may need to build a dash to hold that switch plus the turn signal and high beam indicator.