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Yeah ,wiring at Boyer pickup timing cover.Zombies eat brains and vibration eats electronics.
engine
- Thread starter andrewb
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G'day Andrew,
What do the plugs look like when you take them out.?
Have you got a new set of plugs to try, or even an old set will do.
Mikunis don't give too much trouble useually, but shitty petrol does.
The symptom you have can relate to several things, fuel starvation, electrics,... so ellimination is your only hope.
You're sure the vent is not blocked, you are sure fuel is getting through the carby to the float bowl but is the Idle circuit
working in the carb. Are you sure you have cleaned that carby out properly, and put it back together properly.
Are you confident with what you are doing, things that are obvious too sum of us are not obvious to others or learners.
When the engine stops, does it stop quickly as though it ran out of fuel or does it blubber a bit as though it flooded.
Does it spit back through the carby when you blip the throttle, usually means there is a leaness there.
The choke may be sticking on, although I think you said it starts OK without the choke.
The choke may be stuck on. Pull it to bits and have a look.
If you're in a cold climate and it is starting with out the choke, your idle circuit might be a bit rich.
In other words, I guess, if you are confident that the carby is OK, then that's elliminated.
Back to the electrics.....
AC.
What do the plugs look like when you take them out.?
Have you got a new set of plugs to try, or even an old set will do.
Mikunis don't give too much trouble useually, but shitty petrol does.
The symptom you have can relate to several things, fuel starvation, electrics,... so ellimination is your only hope.
You're sure the vent is not blocked, you are sure fuel is getting through the carby to the float bowl but is the Idle circuit
working in the carb. Are you sure you have cleaned that carby out properly, and put it back together properly.
Are you confident with what you are doing, things that are obvious too sum of us are not obvious to others or learners.
When the engine stops, does it stop quickly as though it ran out of fuel or does it blubber a bit as though it flooded.
Does it spit back through the carby when you blip the throttle, usually means there is a leaness there.
The choke may be sticking on, although I think you said it starts OK without the choke.
The choke may be stuck on. Pull it to bits and have a look.
If you're in a cold climate and it is starting with out the choke, your idle circuit might be a bit rich.
In other words, I guess, if you are confident that the carby is OK, then that's elliminated.
Back to the electrics.....
AC.
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Torontonian said:
Zombies ? I thought it was television . :?
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- Jan 20, 2011
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- 893
Oh dear o dear, sorry Andrew, must be old timers disease.
I haven't quite got over the DREER yet.
Kill switch,? might be worth a look. Vibration related.
It has to be something to do with the power supply, surely, if it was a coil or a plug etc.,
it would run on one cylinder.
Sorry not much help, will ring you.
AC.
I haven't quite got over the DREER yet.
Kill switch,? might be worth a look. Vibration related.
It has to be something to do with the power supply, surely, if it was a coil or a plug etc.,
it would run on one cylinder.
Sorry not much help, will ring you.
AC.
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- Jul 25, 2010
- Messages
- 5,947
One way to lick the sucker , would be disconect all wireing possible from engine , and throw in a ' jurey rig '.
Then if it still did it , you'd know it WASNT the wireing . :lol: .
Would actually be fairly elementary .Sounds like some people think its the split insulation through the grommet , trick. Though .Allways a prime suspect .
Youll get the wire with the insulation cracked right round under the little steel clip story if youre not carefull ,
No dampness involved though , we'd presume .
Old Non-Soldered conections in sea air can oxidise , and the odd Lucas wire goes all black in the coper strands
and becomes disfunctional though , after 20 years , like the coils .
Then if it still did it , you'd know it WASNT the wireing . :lol: .
Would actually be fairly elementary .Sounds like some people think its the split insulation through the grommet , trick. Though .Allways a prime suspect .
Youll get the wire with the insulation cracked right round under the little steel clip story if youre not carefull ,
No dampness involved though , we'd presume .
Old Non-Soldered conections in sea air can oxidise , and the odd Lucas wire goes all black in the coper strands
and becomes disfunctional though , after 20 years , like the coils .
How long do you have to wait to start the engine again?
Try running a jumper directly from the battery to power up the Boyer. Skip everything. If the problem disappears, the problem would be anywhere between the battery and the blackbox. Think about running a relay to the ignition, every contact is a liability.
I've had the pickup wires break on a Boyer right under the zip tie on the plate at the timing cover. It ran raggedly when warmed up due to vibration and the softened the insulation, but wasn't on/off.
I like the coil or caps, if they're resistor.
Try running a jumper directly from the battery to power up the Boyer. Skip everything. If the problem disappears, the problem would be anywhere between the battery and the blackbox. Think about running a relay to the ignition, every contact is a liability.
I've had the pickup wires break on a Boyer right under the zip tie on the plate at the timing cover. It ran raggedly when warmed up due to vibration and the softened the insulation, but wasn't on/off.
I like the coil or caps, if they're resistor.
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- Dec 28, 2009
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Yes rpatton advice is correct only I would put an inline fuse to this jumpline to the black box white power wire, just to be safe, after inspecting plate pickup leads first. Bypass everything else ,elimination and substitution if possible eg. the carb. sub. Good luck.
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