Dual Kehin PWK 32mm flatslides question

1up3down said:

Ok, good report, seems those old plugs were the problem

and you are "ok" in using the new NGK BP6es because that is only one heat range "warmer" than the prescribed 7ES,
just fine around for 30 mile loops but much longer the 7's

Ok now to the idle hanging up and not coming down right away

This is because your air screws are still too far turned out, too lean causes not settling down so turn those little babies in some more until it settles down, and then see if you need to further adjust your slide stop knurled screws

and on to the lower throttle cables pulling up out of their carb holders: ya gotta find a way to keep backward pulling pressure on those lower cables to keep them in the holders, maybe take tank off and duc tape the lowers kind or backward pulling to the big frame tube or something, also maybe wrap some duc tape on the cables right above where they go in the carbies and them pull them down and wrap the remaining duc tape around the carbs to hold them?

you are getting there!

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I am not doubting the Bosch plugs were of OK quality but I am thinking 1up was right in his advice the plugs could have gone through the ringer while on my timing and initial mixture settings adventure. They are sooty black.

I think I may try and create a more steep angle by affixing the junction box to the frame tube further back. This might do the trick. I might use a clamp or something to get the junction box to stay. It might help keep everything tight if my mind works well enough to think it through early. Otherwise it would be a great thing to have something like the car Kehin on my wifes XL250...



I

my expertise is not anywhere near most of these guys on this forum. when I post something it is just from personal experience, and that's it, so take it for what it's worth. The bosch plugs ran sooty black on my bike also, untill I put a larger K&n air filter on, then they cleared up nicely, no carb adjustments. Good ever since.

on second thought, forget the duc tape idea

it looks like you can wrap a loop of safety wire around the top of the lower cable sheath and then another wrap on the carb top extension it goes into, that ought to hold those buggers in place

Its all in the instructions that come with the carbs.

"DO NOT EXPECT EACH CARB TO NEED THE SAME IDLE SCREW MIXTURE SETTING"
also:
"If it loads up/8 cycles at low/mid RPM in 4th gear then its too rich and you need to raise the needle clip. "

iceteanolemon said:

If I stand behind the bike and listen to the exhaust it sounds like the left side is not hitting on every fire.

Also I have an issue withe the cable ends to the carb getting stuck above the copper fitting a few times when the bike is in an high vibration idle. One of the cables will get lodged up and until I manually reach down there and fix it the bike will surge up in rpm. I need to devise a solution for that one so I don't get irritated with that on the road.

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More idle mixture & speed screw adjusting is necessary - when you get it right your idle will settle down.

1up 3 down has it right - pull the cables back & fasten them to the frame. If that doesn't do it then see photo below. Should I change the cable adjusters that I supply? The bent cable adjusters should work but its hard the thread the cable through (they are only available on new carbs).



Alcohol in todays gas has caused some of the square section orings (that go in the rubber boots) to swell - they are unecessary so just discard them.

There is double wall (aka High Voltage) heat shrink tubing with hot glue on the inner wall that would work to hold the cables in place. It would have to be cut out when changing cables but no big deal. About 3/4" on each carb would suffice. I use this at my job and also sometimes it comes in handy for brit bike repairs. (Also good on cable sheaths that have been damaged by rubbing.) The glue doesn't get inside and comes off easily once the heatshrink is split with an Exacto knife.

Try: http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Elec ... B000QCPKE8

Russ

jseng1 said:

Its all in the instructions that come with the carbs.

"DO NOT EXPECT EACH CARB TO NEED THE SAME IDLE SCREW MIXTURE SETTING"
also:
"If it loads up/8 cycles at low/mid RPM in 4th gear then its too rich and you need to raise the needle clip. "

iceteanolemon said:

If I stand behind the bike and listen to the exhaust it sounds like the left side is not hitting on every fire.

Also I have an issue withe the cable ends to the carb getting stuck above the copper fitting a few times when the bike is in an high vibration idle. One of the cables will get lodged up and until I manually reach down there and fix it the bike will surge up in rpm. I need to devise a solution for that one so I don't get irritated with that on the road.

Click to expand...

More idle mixture & speed screw adjusting is necessary - when you get it right your idle will settle down.

1up 3 down has it right - pull the cables back & fasten them to the frame. If that doesn't do it then see photo below. Should I change the cable adjusters that I supply? The bent cable adjusters should work but its hard the thread the cable through (they are only available on new carbs).

Alcohol in todays gas has caused some of the square section orings (that go in the rubber boots) to swell - they are unecessary so just discard them.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I am following the instructions but I have been taking a methodical approach so I can see how it is to work from nothing to getting things tuned. Started without the timing either so I think I am making some great progress. I think at this point the left side carb needs a little attention and then I will be done and ready to break something else!

The angled cable adjusters would make things better. I will make it work of course but as for a well fitted setup I think a slight angle on the adjusters would be nice. I think I may try the shrink tubing idea. That looks like it may be a good one. The only time the cable jumps out is during high vibration and it only moves a tiny bit. The result though is irritating...

All in all this install has been great fun!! I also cant say enough about the packaging and full detailed instructions given with the purchase of the carb kit. I do though enjoy being able to document the process and share with the group.

Funny thing is I was irritated with the timing to other day and pulled the trigger on a new Old Britts Power Arc electronic ignition. I will probably ride this around a while as it is tuned with the points before throwing the electronic ignition on.

I gotta cut my credit cards up! :|

iceteanolemon said:

I have an issue withe the cable ends to the carb getting stuck above the copper fitting a few times when the bike is in an high vibration idle. One of the cables will get lodged up and until I manually reach down an fix it...

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Here's the super easy solution - give the cable a slight bend to reduce the angle tension where it fits into the cable adjuster. Some recent carb kits were supplied with nylon lined cables and so the housings are stiffer and need the silght bend. You can identify the nylon lined cables by the stepped aluminum ends.

Looks great Iceteanlemon. We'll get together for a "two JS carb'd" Commando ride.

xbacksideslider said:

Looks great Iceteanlemon. We'll get together for a "two JS carb'd" Commando ride.

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Hell yea man!

I really want to be dialed in before I go on my next ride with this thing. Last ride I got from my house to halfway through Angeles Forest to the fork on Big Tujunga and noticed my oil lines leaked all over the rear tire and such.

This buying frenzy came out of that one incident. I replaced the oil lines and then left to Alaska, then my wife went and got the carb kit while I was out there. It's been down hill from then!

I am going to be good to go in the next week or so! The poor RC51 sitting in the corner with metal showing on the rear Corsa3... *Edit Ill have to throw in a RC51 pic for fun...

Wow, you makin all that steam?

:lol:

xbacksideslider said:

Wow, you makin all that steam?

:lol:

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when ya gotta go ya gotta go!

Hey IceT,
Take up some more slack from those cables with the adjusters on top of the Carbs.
They look too loose in the photos., then give yourself some slack at the throttle end.
Don't forget,... Synchronize the Carbs, and as Jim says, the Air screws might end up in different
positions, check the cables for adjustment, recheck the synch, recheck the cables.
Tape or Zip tie the junction box to the frame.
Have fun, AC.

I had this problem with my PWK''s. The angle of the dangle of the cables caused them to jump out the adjuster. My solution is a little different. The adjusters in the top of the carb was removed and the threaded hole drilled out to accept a cable stop. The throttle cables were swapped out for a set of cables with the mid cable adjuster. It was bit of messing about to get the correct cable length but it did address the displacement problem.

The soft springs were replaced for the gold springs. Throttle twist was too heavy and the gold springs were shortened.

The carbs were not working properly and upon dismantle I found a crushed o ring under the jet block.

norsa1 said:

...The adjusters in the top of the carb was removed and the threaded hole drilled out to accept a cable stop. The throttle cables were swapped out for a set of cables with the mid cable adjuster.,,

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When I first started sending them out I did the same thing with the mid cable adjuster and cable stop (machining the carb top). But machining the carb top got old when all you have to do is put a slight permanent bend in the cable housing so it points straight down at the carb.

I have a new electronic ignition to install this weekend so when I do I am going to remove the tank and attach the junction box to the frame and try to create a more of a bend to the carbs on the two lines. I will make an effort to do some pictures so as to help anyone else in future installations....


I did simply reach in and give each cable a tweak a little and havent had an issue just idling and revving in the garage so far....

On my two year old JS flat slides, I wrapped some safety wire around the lower cable end pieces and then down to and around a couple times the carb tops where the cables go in, tightened it up and they are NOT going anywhere

So since I had the tank off for the ignition I decided to fix the Junction box to the frame rail. This way I can place it back a little bit to create a natural curve in the throttle line. It also allows me to tighten up how the throttle lines fit into the junction box inputs. When loose the ends are kinked or at an angle and it looks like that could add to sync issues or something sometime down the road.

This took about 5 min and three zip ties.

I backed the junction box up about a half inch and zip tied it to the frame. I also too ka zip tie and bound the throttle cables to each other right before the junction box. Nothing too tight, just sug enough to keep it from moving.

Hopefully it does the trick and I dont end up with some huge issue down the road. I think it should be fine. it looks to have created a nice angle for the throttle lines to match the inputs.

When testing it I have not had an issue with the binding or the throttle lines getting messed up. I have been playing with it an hour or so... On the second pic I took this right before I loosened the junction box up a little bit, the throttle line is now exactly in line with the input..

looks like you have engineered a good solution!

now, about that 40 year old head steady of yours.............just kidding!

1up3down said:

looks like you have engineered a good solution!

now, about that 40 year old head steady of yours.............just kidding!

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Haha I need to get the thing on the road fast enough to know where the performance is lacking before I start adding the trick stuff! I see those cool head steadys out there... Dont tempt me as I have been buying crap like a mad dog. (at least for me)

I have some leaks to deal with first!

OK last night I went for a first test ride that had its ups and downs. I have gone down the street more than a few times without issue but now this time I was headed for distance, a whole way around the block! I got pretty far before I fouled a plug real bad and coasted home. I make it a point on test rides to leave my house uphill....


I think I reverse engineered my issue though .this pain was self inflicted.

I had the thing dialed in pretty good with the points timing but then my credit card took me over and ordered the powerarc. So I ended up tearing into it again and placing the ignition on. Somewhere between that and the test ride I have thrown the carb settings off on one cyl. This morning I doublechecked everything and set the carbs back to factory defaults and fired it up. I have everything somewhat dialed in from sitting in the garage so I will take another test ride today to try again.

In between I did the fork seals too and from yesterday to today they are not leaking so thats a plus.