cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?

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Trixie was pretty oil tight the first 1000 miles but last 3000 made puddle behind the tach drive to drool everywhere. Thought it the tach drive but discovered last ride its all from the base seam. I may of been a slackard on nipping those up in time but now it don't matter how tight. I'd used Hylomar which has sealed everything else fine but maybe applied too thin or the blow by oil washed it out.

Trixie smokes to hi heavens out the LH pipe last 2000 miles but only on first start up after a day or more sitting. Once warmed barely enough to ease out drive way smoke clears up and not seen again on starts or power ups till sits up 24 hr. Smoke takes a few seconds to show up, then on slight delay to blip ups but not on the throttle cuts run over. This implies rings more than valve guides, I think. Wes says its ring/bore issue with blow by forcing oil out. I've a $100 Krank PCV in combat breather tube but its not slowed the base leak at all.

So question is can I just lift barrel with head on, off cases to tend to it or does that drop the the lifters enough the push rods fall out off rocker sockets?
 
CNW offers this with engine rebuild:

Tachometer drive seal modified to prevent leakage.

Or just get the electronic gauges and put an end to tach seal issues.

Tachometer drive blanking plate

cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?


cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?

Manufacturer: CNW

Description:
- Designed to cleanly cover your tach drive cavity if you don't run instruments or if you use an electronic tach
- Show polished
- Complete with gasket and polished stainless button head allen bolts
# 111
 
I managed to pull the cylinder and head up enough to put on the stainless nuts I got from RGM, but it was recently put on and the gasket came off with the cylinder. Didn't have any problem with the rods. You may be lucky and may not be. Worst thing is the gasket breaks, and then it's your best bet what to put on it. The magic blue sauce? You may want to pull the rocker covers and make sure the rods go back in the sockets afterwards.

Dave
69S
 
Oh cool Dave your response leaves me grinning not to have to pop the head and all, hot dogT. Just when I think I've encountered all the fault and fixes on Combats I stumble on to new ones. i long ago swore off base gaskets and condoms thank you.
Not sure if just my slackness on re-nips down there or some deeper issue but I can do it your way in an evening to ride in the best fall colors we've had in 8 yrs. Bright Orange barns are dulled by their surrounds now.

cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?


Thanks for the input skyguy. I've used that plate prior to block off a Combat breather in Peel but I want Trixie factory functional. Peel will have electric tach so that looks like best clean way - unless I can think of something else to do with the drive turning
 
Nice colors here too this autum, yesterday's ride was brilliant with sidriley in the foothills of the Blue Ridge. I think he had a good time experiencing the Norty.

Dave
69S
 
Hi Steve,
Are you sure it's the base gasket and not something more sinister? my mate had this issue and it was the barrel cracked just above the flange on the right hand side, cleaning the paint of revealed a small crack that oozed out oil when hot waiting to grow into something real ugly and the 750 I have seen that broke it flange was not at all pretty, the flange broke at the weak points on the sides but it was the crankcases that let go front and back to complete the separation from top to bottom.
If it is nothing more than a leak at the join you can remove the head barrels and pistons in one go in the frame, I have done it you have to remove coils and brackets etc and remove all the base nuts and have a strong friend straddle the bike and lift the head and barrel up as far as you can, you have to then position the pistons so the gudgeon pins are exposed just below the cylinder spigots and carefully remove the outer circlips. Warm the pistons and slide out the gudgeon pins and the whole lot can be lifted out, pushrods will stay located and nothing will fall out. Can't remember but you may have to remove front iso to drop engine slightly for more clearance. I have done it twice once with the engine in frame and once with it out and it's a lot easier than unnessicarily breaking a good head joint with all the retourqing involved.
Good luck
 
I know that I'm sort of new to Norton maintenance but I wouldn't have thougt it possible. I'll file it away, as it's good to know. Recently I used these ratchet straps to help me lift stuck cylinder barrels. Might work for your problem too, that way no one is left straining while holding them up. With the head still on and the whole thing not being stuck on after having been left out in the elements for years, you could probably move the straps up a bit to leave more room to access the cylinder base nuts and also to help balance the load better once up. JS motorsports offers a copper base gasket that looks good to me. They also suggests that you not use a paper one due to the kinds of problems your talking about leaking / loosening. Cj
cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?
 
cjandme said:
I know that I'm sort of new to Norton maintenance but I wouldn't have thougt it possible. I'll file it away, as it's good to know.
Won't work on yours as you have through bolts holding the barrel so the head needs to be removed to access them, 750's only.
 
Ugh, Commando = joy - hassle events. impressed by LAB's push rod insertion from the bottom, never thought of that surgical approach away from home and heat.

Snakehips, [what a image] ratchets strap idea is good for a one man shop helper I'll keep in mind if I can just lift barrel and bungee cord it up for a while. The cracked barrel concept was not very uplifting to consider but very good point I got to check now. I'm sure the barrel will be rather free with all the oil lube evidence around it. Trixie's cases are JBWeld repaired from last rod bolt let go so when the tach drive was resealed and capped off and still leaked the same, I saw oil that seemed coming wind blown Up from front of case just below it, I expected the worse. But when I cleaned area and rode a few 100 yd at 30 mph I could see the oil 1st at the base seam, whew.

There was some cam worm drive damage I had to file smooth so hope that's not screwing with the tach drive as I've tired 2 used cables so far and neither made the tach indicate, just bonce to 1000. I found the short rod-tab connector gizmo had sheared in half ugh. Tach was working fine when she came apart a few year ago. I don't need the tach for a Combat protection, as when I feel its nice pull increase I know i'm in the 6000 zone and shift or back off. Hehe last couple of rides the speedo stopped reading smooth to bonce too much to trust now. ugh.

Commando = Joy - Has$le.
 
hobot said:
impressed by LAB's push rod insertion from the bottom, never thought of that surgical approach away from home and heat.

That was ludwig-not me. I own an 850 and the head must be removed first on the 850 models.
 
Ugh, Ok just glossed over that detail of identity. You are definitely an extremist to pay attention to too. Refreshing to read about your own learning curve balls. Today is rainy cold, which will add more blaze to this great yr's foliage colors, and company is coming so getting work inside done, like switching out glued down bathroom sink, which somehow feels like warm up for lifting Trixie's barrel soon after then glued back. One reason I'd not been Nortoning about till this year is I'd done about 5 yr of major repairs in open tin shed in winter misery so I swore that off 3 yr ago. Expected to have SV650 in interim, then goats shut us down till who knows when.

I think I can leave carbs hung in air box by just freeing the manifold at head. Might be able to get to the seam with just the barrel nuts holding the works up on the fins.
One of the advertising claims of Hylomar is excess bead don't break off like RTV, I hope, for a clean machine.
 
I did find small pieces of Hylomar in my sump filter first oil change.

Dave
69S
 
Hylomar in the sump huh, well just can't trust them advertisers. I think my mis trust of that was the source of Trixie's barrels developing into an oil well, smeared on too skimpy. But looks like oils well will end well. Got the real work horse out, propane torch, after a few strong attempts for nothing on cold exht rings and the barrel nuts. Exht rings backed off so the pipes came out and just rolled out the way on the floor w/o touching the muffler hangers. Then side plates of head steady. Then barrel nuts gave up nicely with heat too. Left the carbs alone as bellows gain plenty enough. Four side nuts lifted barrel about 3/8" or more so easy to rag it and spray it clean but mostly already was with just hints of Hylomar left. The only wrench that fits the bigger nuts the best is 9/16 btw, get a good one of those and also 5/8" which fits a whole bunch of other the Whitworth just don't. I find a short still brush works best, 3/8" glue type and pin stripe brush that's had paint harden it up, trimmed to ~1/4 long. Stuff is snot like and tends to roll up on itself. Have not had the discipline to inspect the oil filter yet.

So just in for a breather from squatting and wrench flipping a half flat at a time then back to try my faith in more Hylomar again. So far no obvious fracture anywhere and JBWeld holding its own. I didn't paint it over but working all around the cases ain't noticed the patches at all, so I won't tell if yo'all don't. I'm pleased with myself for not just flaking out this late and putting it off till weather too cold to ride. Crossing wrenches she's clean machine once again.
 
Well my lazy ways with the short list of encourager's Trixie is a clean machine again, oil wise. Still some blood stains on new peashooter that I think is now part of the chrome plate. Nipped barrel down last am and waited till last minute before 2 pm for appointments to wham bam the exhausts back on, tank up and head out. Nice crisp air in peak of colors 20 miles - steep chase into a mini IOM course then river valley snaking into village square. All good till I short cutted a mild sweeper at 80's crossing double yellow twice on purpose mostly upright, to get two cycles of whohoo reversed steering weaves, after, each pass across. Then remembered in haste I'd forgotallabout the head steady. Danced a bit more on THE Gravel and lumpy rutty pavement too but a non issue as long as not pressing any limits its a self correcting ghost trick or treat. Also was mindful on last legs of this summers tires.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2769253 ... 1179QFZwoK
cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?


http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2992135 ... 1179YxTFSv
cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?


Lazy trash empty'r too...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2811797 ... 1179noMbjG
cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?
 
Ride the crap out of your tires :lol: At least you do ride enough to wear them out... and you worry about a small leak :!:

Jean
 
If it holds air between rides in and out then its good enough for me. I'm being sent an old hard rear tire thats still got good meat left to use it up for cost to ship. Wes tends to stifle my lane weaving ways as he got ticketed doing that himself in past so don't anymore but boy howdy he's a task to follow in a hurry. The wider the tire the easier it is to lean to remove the chicken strips but the more risky to lose its length wise tire foot print so squirms and slip skips easier too. The fatso used race tires are only worn some on the very edges plenty of meat in the centers. So I have enough fun and wits and places to wear em all the way down, ~2000 in center, ~1000 on each side. I've still 5 big rears to use up if ever get goat screwed SuVee recovered. These racy babies go for ~@250 each new, I get em $50 a pop shipped a few at a time. in order of my preference
150 to 170 SV likes the 160's best but getting harder to find as tire fad widens.
Pirelli Diablo Corsa II
Dunlop 209 GP
Bridgestone Battlax
Michelin Power One

Here's how they come, messed up to the very rim, not all smoothed over like my stack. I don't melt them like racers even when pressing to my max I feather slip em less so they don't abrade away nor melt to grease globs, I get the groove edges to smear out and still adhere 1/8"+ lips. It just gives me best fun pull that way. These get removed crossing the Gravel of course even w/o any on purpose spin. I am past that phase in public though, learned enough to give it up for a real motorcycle as my tool of choice. I get to pavement on both warmed up and sand blasted furry tires : ) Ozark's offer places a plenty if you can risk the blind fates.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32x0P6CVnBU
 
hehe Trixie and me were leaving a bad impression here and there before the gusher sealed. Now I can park w/o a trace.

cylinder base oil leaks lazy corrections?
 
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