Crankcase Sealer

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kommando said:
I have been using 515/518 for the last 10 years on all engines including crankcase halve joints and it works fine, any bead from excess application stays a liquid and dissolves in oil so no danger of a solid bead breaking off and then blocking an oilway, plus it seals well.
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just finished the case assembly on my Enfield with 518, it seems to be OK, hope it doesn't clog any oil passages, as it sqeezed out , and on the inside there is no way to wipe it off. Supposedly it will not clog.
 
How do you get the sealant between the crankcase halves without pulling the motor apart ?
 
Al, you dont, it has to come apart, clean the old silicone shite off and re seal with the recommended ones in the thread above.
Loctite 515 for me, purple one, red one is the 518 and I use that on surfaces that on more likely to come apart more often.
Regards Mike
 
43 years and my crank cases have been pulled apart 3 times and put together with 3 Bond and have never had a leak in all those times and the cases pull apart easy and cleans up easy, over the years many have said to me bloody Nortons they just leave their droppings when parked and they always look under mine and there is never any oil to be seen and they ask if I have oil in it and when I tell them it has never leaked oil since new they always give me a look of disbelieve, but after sitting for 6 months now my drain plug has a drip, no sealent on that plug just a old copper washer.

Ashley
 
G'day .. I want to use loctite 518 on my Barrels to crank cases . How much is needed for a good seal , just a small bead ? And i'd be thinking you would put the bead on the inside of the stud holes between the barrel sleeve .. Would a 50ml bottle be enough or more ..

Cheers Fred
 
Generally, all you need on GOOD mating surfaces is a smear of sealant, not even a bead. Obviously, if you have dented/warped/pitted surfaces, more sealant in those areas may be required. Of course, dressing/truing the mating surfaces is a better way to address that. 50ml is plenty...should be enough to do the entire engine! :)
 
When I use 518 I just put a bead, the std hole in the dispenser gets it right but the bead must be continuous.
 
I've only ever used wellseal on a commando crankcase,never had a leak
On other engines I have used 3 bond where the mating faces are not great
Generally Norton commandos are good at keeping their oil inside and even better these days with new types of breather available
Pre unit triumphs and pre unit BSA s give me the most greif when it comes to oil leaks (especially when you thrash them!)
 
I was having an MOT done on my commando and there was a bloke pulled up on a guzzi
He told me he couldn't ride a Norton commando because he couldn't put up with the vibration !
And that they all leak oil etc etc
I told him it doesn't vibrate and dosent leak oil
But he didn't believe me and it was a pointless conversation that I'd had many times with people over the years, he had never owned or ridden a British bike !!
Sorry for getting off the subject it just came to mind
 
I have used Permatex I, II and IV. They all start out fine but in my experience, they harden over time and fail. I'll use my Vincent as an example. After the initial build in 1980 using Permatex Form-a-Gasket II, it was oil tight, only a drip from the crankcase breather tube. Over the years, it went from oil tight to a small leak to an excessive leak. I am using Three Bond in the current build.

Conway motors in the UK makes an anti-sumping valve in-house for Vincents. I have inquired if they are suitable for Norton Commandos as well. Will follow up here with their response.

The link to Conway's parts page is: http://conway-motors.co.uk/wp/?page_id=296 The valve is about half way down the page.

Ride safe!
~998cc
 
998cc said:
Conway motors in the UK makes an anti-sumping valve in-house for Vincents. I have inquired if they are suitable for Norton Commandos as well. Will follow up here with their response.

The link to Conway's parts page is: http://conway-motors.co.uk/wp/?page_id=296 The valve is about half way down the page.
Click to expand...

998 - it's interesting in the photo of the installed valve (which appears to be an in-line sprung check valve with inherent risks) it shows what appears to be an Alton e-start whereas they sell different brand (Grosset)
Cheers
Rob
 
Their starter is a Grosset (Grosset are fitted to the 1330cc Godet Egli’s and work very well even without and form of de-compressor).

The Alton you see in the other picture is the alternator replacement for the dyno.

Some nice looking stuff on that web site!
 
Made a living rebuilding vw/Porsches back in the 80s and 90s.....over the years tried everything..silk, permtex, Indianhead etc.....best I've used is Rectorseal #5 plumbers paste.....used it on many Beetle motors,a couple shovelheads, all sorts of rebuilds, transmissions, seals well, fuel resistant, comes apart and cleans up easier after years of service....cheap and available....hardware stores, Lowes etc...thats what Im using on this bike now.....
 
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