- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Not much else interests me as funnest safest turns with some reserves for the minor textures and object crossings or dodgings. To me braking while leaning is the most risky loose state to put a cycle in. For those that use leaned front braking fully the fork dampening is critical. My factory roadholders will bounce til tire chrip skips scares me on leans so they are my worse case baseline. My SV650 with Race Tech emulators are much much better but still bounce at hi freq. on far leaned front tire squealing till jumps around on its poorly oriented patch shape to wash out, then save by a rear brake stable to jerk upright while also flinging forks back inline To NAIL front enough to carry on. Takes 50-60 mph for me to have ballistic inertia enough the wheel gryo's don't let bike instantly hit ground but falls delayed just enough humans can react too. Keep working up on this you may find that the bigger rear patch + some over powering engine torque can trip a bike down lean faster to turn sharper more predicable than the wimpy unpredictable front trail brake loss can lean ya over and no momentum lost niether. THE Gravel washboards teaches about fork bounce while both tires braking drifting so twists bike on its vertical CoG w/o hardly any leaning at all. Then the phenomena of how far out mass is hanging away form CoG helps or hinders the spin rate on CoG axls, whoowoooo... The faster ya go the faster the damper valves must switch functions in shorter distance. The dual acting fork dampers are limited by valve mass, so race is on for the lightest. Makes good sense to me to have the compression and expansion damper separated in each leg so each is always active no instants of delay for valves to opens or seal. Another way beyond valves is tapered needle in a jet.