Commando Frame Paint?

elefantrider · Jun 7, 2014

Is the frame paint supposed to be gloss black or semi gloss?

Hobot · Jun 7, 2014

I've seen the protected dust under gas tank of unmolested 750 wiped off in Baxter's shop to see it instantly reminded me of women's black patent leather gleam ya like a black mirror gloss. i could not believe my eyes either on how fine and ordered and well thought out and routed the Lucas wire loom and bullet connectors all was. Truly I about swooned but mostly realizing a DIY attempt to service back in the day would be like poking a hand though nice spider webbing no way to stick it back nice as once was. Next question is how thick and type a layer to cover and how easy to repair layer, if not just wiping off good.

gortnipper · Jun 8, 2014

Paint it gloss, and it will clean more easily.

Plus, you will go faster. ;-)

DogT · Jun 8, 2014

elefantrider · Jun 8, 2014

Picked up the VHT brand chassis and roll bar paint in gloss black so will just use that, thanks

Guido · Jun 9, 2014

I found the Hi-Temp engine paint to work best and flow best. More resistant to fuels.

elefantrider · Jun 9, 2014

Guido said:
I found the Hi-Temp engine paint to work best and flow best. More resistant to fuels.

Better than the VHT roll bar and chassis paint?
VHT brand also?

Guido · Jun 11, 2014

Try this.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=paint+-+engine+enamel

lcrken · Jun 11, 2014

I've had great luck with using plain old Rustoleum gloss black on frames. It takes a couple coats, with 15 minutes or so in between to avoid runs, and it does take 24 hours to cure, but it's really durable, and easy to touch up.

Ken

mike996 · Jun 11, 2014

lcrken said:
I've had great luck with using plain old Rustoleum gloss black on frames. It takes a couple coats, with 15 minutes or so in between to avoid runs, and it does take 24 hours to cure, but it's really durable, and easy to touch up.

Ken

Totally agree; I did the same on my original '71 Commando back in the day and couldn't tell any difference between that and the factory. If you want a bike frame that looks like a new bike frame did at the time, Rustoleum will do the job.

htown16 · Jun 11, 2014

Another one for Rustoleum black. For me the gloss version dries not all that glossy, sort of between semi-gloss and gloss, looks fairly close to protected areas of original paint. Certainly its not clear coat glossy.
I use the Rustoleum etching primer on any bare metal areas.
In fact I'm repainting an oil tank and some other bits this afternoon.

DogT · Jun 11, 2014

You guyz using the rattle cans or the quarts? I've been wondering how that quart enamel stuff will work in my electric Wagner, I'm assuming I'll have to thin it down. I've had good luck with the Wagner on wood stuff using thinned enamel. I use the rustoleum to touch up my powder coat and it works too, usually I just use a brush if it's a place that's not too visible.

mike996 · Jun 12, 2014

Rattle can is all you need There is nothing on the frame that needs a "real" spray gun since there are no large, flat areas that would show inconsistent application. Rattle can is easier, faster and looks as good as oem.

batrider · Jun 12, 2014

You don't want to be doing this again anytime soon. Get it painted right.

gortnipper · Jun 12, 2014

batrider said:
You don't want to be doing this again anytime soon. Get it painted right.

+1

DogT · Jun 12, 2014

I tried the rattle can paint back in the 70's. I wasn't happy with it, maybe it's improved.

mschmitz57 · Jun 12, 2014

The OEM frame paint was like shoe polish. Not too good.

I resprayed the rear loop, front iso, and down tubes on my 850 last winter. It turned out great.
I think I used engine enamel which was supposed to be gas resistant.
I had the exhaust pipes and rear fender off the bike anyway so I carefully masked off everything and
placed newspaper over the engine and rear wheel. Dismantled the iso.
Careful surface preparation is the key to a nice finish. Also helps to warm the can in hot water to thin the paint somewhat.
Black Rustoleum enamel is probably a good a match as anything.

DogT · Jun 13, 2014

I found the factory paint pretty tough. Especially the oil tank, it was really difficult to get that off, acetone wouldn't even attack it. Don't know what kind of rattle can paint I used on my first re-paint, but it didn't work out very good. That was in the late 70's. I've found the Valspar pretty good lately if a bit pricy.

elefantrider · Feb 7, 2015

Tested two paints on my frame which needs to be touched up or redone.

1. VHT roll bar paint:
Of these two, seems more durable but is not quite glossy enough.

2. Rustoleum Gloss Black:
Seems a lot more glossy than factory.

Will pick up a can of Rustoleum Satin or Semi flat to see how it compares.

Hobot · Feb 7, 2015

Hm I've seen a number of factory 750 frames with protected paint areas to be wide eye'd awed how smooth glossy the black that always reminds me of spit polished patent leather. Might want to check a few others frame still in factory finish if that's what ya trying to match. I think factory used Black Stove enamel. Clear wheel paint on auto shop clear mix would look like patent leather mirror.

Commando Frame Paint?

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