Frame paint - epoxy spray can

jseng1

jseng1

Joined
Nov 26, 2009
Messages
3,216
Country flag
After chasing lacquer and enamel chips with touch ups I finally found something that holds up better. Cheap and available at your local hardware store. Also sticks to chrome better than lacquer or enamal.

Frame paint - epoxy spray can
 
Good recommendation as I have used this paint when fixing up old condos. I never would have thought about its use for a frame
Mike
Jim,would you use a primer with this?
 
YING said:
Good recommendation as I have used this paint when fixing up old condos. I never would have thought about its use for a frame
Mike
Jim,would you use a primer with this?
Click to expand...
It doesn't seem to need a primer. I was impressed by the way it adheres to chrome which has always been a problem because a previous owner chromed the oil tank and other paints would chip or flake off.
 
used rustoleum painter's touch on my BSA project - no complaints, no issues. stuff's probably better than anything the factory used. on my norton, used duplicolor's universal gloss black for some touch-up work - seemed to work out OK. i found some 2K gloss black in rattle cans at my automotive paint supplier that i might try on my next project. i with KiwiShane on th UV light thing, so keep that in mind epoxy paints. POR-15 is a similar product, but must be top coated for outdoor use.
 
My issue with most spray paints has been their extended drying and recoat times- Rustoleum appears to be especially sensitive to this and can be prone to crazing and lifting if recoated too early. I regularly give sensitive items 4-6 days of cure time before risking a respray- especially if I need to tape a paint line.

Much of this is likely due to my location and the fact that my work area tends to be chilly, so your results may be a lot more positive than mine.

For my present project I will be trying out SprayMax 2-part sprays… these allegedly cure fast, spray well, and are very durable, but can be harder to source and are $3x the cost.

Will report back with results.

It’s this stuff:
www.spraymax.com

2K Topcoat Black - SprayMax

www.spraymax.com www.spraymax.com
 
When coating manufacturers test for UV resistance they cover part of the sample (shade) to later measure/observe the degradation of the coating
 
I wonder if this paint is actually epoxy? That usually needs a catalyst mixed in to kick off the polymerization to harden. Maybe the can is designed with two internal chambers and sprays out the resin & catalyst together, mixing upon leaving the nozzle?

Also, since this is sold for indoor appliance use, it may not have UV inhibitors normally in epoxies made for sun exposure.
 
Elfix said:
My issue with most spray paints has been their extended drying and recoat times- Rustoleum appears to be especially sensitive to this and can be prone to crazing and lifting if recoated too early. I regularly give sensitive items 4-6 days of cure time before risking a respray- especially if I need to tape a paint line.

Much of this is likely due to my location and the fact that my work area tends to be chilly, so your results may be a lot more positive than mine.

For my present project I will be trying out SprayMax 2-part sprays… these allegedly cure fast, spray well, and are very durable, but can be harder to source and are $3x the cost.

Will report back with results.

It’s this stuff:
www.spraymax.com

2K Topcoat Black - SprayMax

www.spraymax.com www.spraymax.com
Click to expand...
Many of the better paints for our purposes specify that all coats must be applied within one hour, or wait seven days. Most have a temp and humidity range for application as well.

I mostly use VHT Rollbar and Chassis paint, but have used several Rust-o-oleum no primer required paints and am happy with them all. However, if you don't follow the instructions, it's sand it off and do it right the second time :-(. The VHT paint can easily be handled in one hour even at the bottom of the temp range, is tough in 24 hours, and is cured within seven days.
 
marshg246 said:
Many of the better paints for our purposes specify that all coats must be applied within one hour, or wait seven days. Most have a temp and humidity range for application as well.

I mostly use VHT Rollbar and Chassis paint, but have used several Rust-o-oleum no primer required paints and am happy with them all. However, if you don't follow the instructions, it's sand it off and do it right the second time :-(. The VHT paint can easily be handled in one hour even at the bottom of the temp range, is tough in 24 hours, and is cured within seven days.
Click to expand...
Do you need to heat up VHT type paints to fully cure them? I know certain brake caliper and engine paints state to do that if not actually used on hot surfaces.
 
Tornado said:
Do you need to heat up VHT type paints to fully cure them? I know certain brake caliper and engine paints state to do that if not actually used on hot surfaces.
Click to expand...
The Rollbar and Chassis paint does not require it and it is 250F paint.

The Barrel paint doesn't either but I usually do as it seems to get tougher and tougher as heated (not pertinent to your question). I REALLY like the barrel paint (550F). When building an engine it's easy to get little chips, especially at the edges of fins. Once the Barrels are on, I spray a little in a lid and dab it on any chips with a q-tip - never had a problem with it. Also, if you find a missed spot, give it a wipe with alcohol and paint it will a q-tip - any minor surface rust won't matter.
 
jseng1 said:
I have a painted sample in direct sunlight for testing over time.
Click to expand...
If this is black, then it may do reasonably well in UV as black pigment generally blocks damage below first few microns of epoxy resin. Might take months to years to make visible surface dulling/damage.
 
Tornado said:
I wonder if this paint is actually epoxy? That usually needs a catalyst mixed in to kick off the polymerization to harden. Maybe the can is designed with two internal chambers and sprays out the resin & catalyst together, mixing upon leaving the nozzle?

Also, since this is sold for indoor appliance use, it may not have UV inhibitors normally in epoxies made for sun exposure.
Click to expand...
The Rustoleum Appliance paint is not a strict epoxy as one would normally think. That is, it is not a polymer of epichlorhydrin and bisphenol. This paint is what they describe as an epoxy modified alkyd that uses a cobalt drier to cure. In layman's terms this is basically an alkyd paint (as most Rustoleum products) that has some functionality of epoxy polymer grafted into the alkyd resin. This likely means it will have better UV resistance than straight amine catalysed epoxies, but maybe less so than straight Rustoleum alkyd paint. The epoxy functionality gives the some additional hardness to the film.

Polymer chemistry hat off.

I have used this paint for a number of brackets, side stands, etc. with good results, but not on an entire frame.
 
The appliance epoxy was the answer to my problem with an oil tank that had been chromed by a previous owner. The chrome wasn't perfect and I didn't like it anyway. Sandblasting it only marginally helped the paint to stay on. - but it always seemed to be coming off. The appliance epoxy seems to have solved that problem.
 

Similar threads

joe czech
  • Locked
matching original frame paint
Replies
6
Views
1,346
jimbo
jimbo
G
  • Locked
Frame paint?
2
Replies
39
Views
2,359
Geeto 67
G
M
  • Locked
Frame paint for Commando
Replies
8
Views
3,838
pommie john
pommie john
Back
Top