CNW Electric Starter Video installation series

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marshg246 said:
Last year I worked on a 650SS with a belt drive from a well-known UK company. It was such a nightmare that I swore to never work on one again. It did not have two adjusters and and (apparently) the cradle was improperly drilled on the bottom or bent. The belt would run towards the engine, rub and smoke. With a new belt and lot of prying, tightening, trying, I finally got it to run true and told the owner to never loosen the bolts and if he did not not bring it to me to fix!

I was recently asked to add the cNw kit to a 74 850. Before pricing it I asked Matt at cNw if I needed to install a second adjuster. He said that he didn't recommend it and didn't see a need for it. The belt is captured in his kit. I just received the kit and if I have any trouble with it not tracking I'll report back.
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You need to report back regardless if it goes flawlessly and give us your impressions of the kit.
 
swooshdave said:
You need to report back regardless if it goes flawlessly and give us your impressions of the kit.
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OK, I will. Also installed their 520 final drive kit - simple job. All bikes I build from now on will have it. Expensive, but having an x-ring chain that doesn't hit anything is a worthwhile upgrade.
 
marshg246 said:
OK, I will. Also installed their 520 final drive kit - simple job. All bikes I build from now on will have it. Expensive, but having an x-ring chain that doesn't hit anything is a worthwhile upgrade.
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I didn't see a 520 sprocket in your parts list so I had to order elsewhere.
 
swooshdave said:
I think the one reason to retain the adjusters is that if the main gearbox bolt should ever come loose then the gearbox could move as it's in a slotted hole.
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The top bolt is secured by a washer, bolted or welded to the engine cradle.


CNW Electric Starter Video installation series
 
ludwig said:
It is my experience that with perfectly parallel shafts ( static) the belt still has a tendency to run out to the left.
IMO, it is better to point the 2 shafts slightly outwards.
And instead of spending time and money on adjusters and figuring out intricate ways to adjust them, determine the correct position of the gearbox and fix it permanently. Throw the adjusters in the scrap metal bin where they belong.
Less clutter, less weight.
Once set, belts don't need adjusting.
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If you were to see a close up of our clutch basket on the E Start you would see an integral belt guard. Our belt is considerable less wide than most, and this left enough room to machine a belt guard on the clutch basket. Even if the transmission and engine are perfectly aligned, there is a possibility for the belt to move outboard under heavy acceleration, the belt guard is there to help prevent that deflection.
CNW Electric Starter Video installation series
 
swooshdave said:
You need to report back regardless if it goes flawlessly and give us your impressions of the kit.
Click to expand...
The install is done except for the final adjustment and installing the primary cover. There are pictures and a bit of a write-up near the end here: https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/Norton_1974.aspx

The kit is excellent. Anyone who can change their countershaft sprocket and can follow excellent instructions and do this install. If I had a bike up on a lift untouched, I suspect that I could do the entire install in under two hours. In the video series, the alternator wire grommet was called out as hard. It's the standard grommet. It's actually easy - you cut off the bullets, coat the first 2 inches of the cable with Vasoline and push the wires through. Since they exit lower than the OEM position, you need to be sure they don't get in the way of anything, especially the drive chain. I ran mine forward of the inner primary standoff and then up. Of course, then you need to install new bullets.

I had a couple of silly problems - both my fault - I found no fault with the instructions or kit. Even the packaging was excellent - made it very easy to find the next part needed at each step.

The kit is COMPLETE! For instance, it includes a new clutch locating circlip and new tab washers for the inner primary to engine bolts. It even includes the portion of the workshop manual that tells you how to disassemble the primary drive.

Unlike some other belt drives, this one has the belt captured on both sides on the front pully and free to self-align on the rear pully. Unless there is something very wrong with your cradle, this belt will track.
 
marshg246 said:
The install is done except for the final adjustment and installing the primary cover. There are pictures and a bit of a write-up near the end here: https://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/Norton_1974.aspx

The kit is excellent. Anyone who can change their countershaft sprocket and can follow excellent instructions and do this install. If I had a bike up on a lift untouched, I suspect that I could do the entire install in under two hours. In the video series, the alternator wire grommet was called out as hard. It's the standard grommet. It's actually easy - you cut off the bullets, coat the first 2 inches of the cable with Vasoline and push the wires through. Since they exit lower than the OEM position, you need to be sure they don't get in the way of anything, especially the drive chain. I ran mine forward of the inner primary standoff and then up. Of course, then you need to install new bullets.

I had a couple of silly problems - both my fault - I found no fault with the instructions or kit. Even the packaging was excellent - made it very easy to find the next part needed at each step.

The kit is COMPLETE! For instance, it includes a new clutch locating circlip and new tab washers for the inner primary to engine bolts. It even includes the portion of the workshop manual that tells you how to disassemble the primary drive.

Unlike some other belt drives, this one has the belt captured on both sides on the front pully and free to self-align on the rear pully. Unless there is something very wrong with your cradle, this belt will track.
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Your solution for the grommet is... interesting. :cool:
 
A friend rang me yesterday who has a Mk III in bits, but without any of the starter gear. He asked if there was the ability to adapt one of the new electric starts to his bike. Some time next year he will probably start to rebuild it.

Dereck
 
Dereck,

Unfortunately, there is really no way to make the cNw e-start kit work on the Mk3. The inner cover will not fit on the Mk3 case, the crank is to long and the gear box is stationary on the Mk3.

Sorry I cant help

Matt
 
kerinorton said:
A friend rang me yesterday who has a Mk III in bits, but without any of the starter gear. He asked if there was the ability to adapt one of the new electric starts to his bike. Some time next year he will probably start to rebuild it.

Dereck
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coloradonortonworks.net

Mk3 Starter Drive Upgrade

Extremely high quality steel Vaccum heat treated for best uniform strength all the way through the core No modifications needed to install. Parts will drop in as stock Kit includes a front sprocket, drive gear with needle bearing and a sprag gear/clutch There is a 5 year conditional warranty on...
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coloradonortonworks.net

cNw Clutch Rod Seal

Shallow nut CNC machined from alloy Threads are cut to ensure proper clearance between the nut and end of main shaft High quality o-ring (easily replaced) A must for belt drive applications and when using fiber clutch plates
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coloradonortonworks.net

cNw 4 Brush Prestolite Starter

Replace your old 2 brush unit with a brand new 4 brush to ensure consistent starting This is not a rebuild but all components are new Black wrinkle finish for close to an original look Polished stainless hardware Billet primary side end cap with a sealed ball bearing instead of a bushing, for...
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or a dynodave starter


I am sure there are odds and sods not covered on this list - https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/133/electric-start
 
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Thanks Dave.

Hows that collar bone. Are you all set for the Port Waikato Rally.

All the best fro Christmas

Dereck
 
kerinorton said:
Thanks Dave.

Hows that collar bone. Are you all set for the Port Waikato Rally.

All the best fro Christmas

Dereck
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yeah, ready. shoulder is still somewhat screwed. getting cortisone shot tomorrow. found out last week that there is a tear in a tendon that no one saw before.
 
gortnipper said:
found out last week that there is a tear in a tendon that no one saw before.
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Well hopefully now they’ve found it they can address it?

Tempting to be critical with them missing this, but shoulders are very complex, easy to miss something like that.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Well hopefully now they’ve found it they can address it?

Tempting to be critical with them missing this, but shoulders are very complex, easy to miss something like that.
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Yeah, and this was first ultrasound. Not really being critical as frozen shoulders take a long time anyway.

Sports Med doc I talked to for first time a couple weeks ago referred the scan and directed the cortisone and originally wanted flow up next year. After the scan he booked me in for chat next week, so will know more then.
 
Good luck.

I broke my shoulder years ago and it healed slightly wonky and causes occasional issues now.

Had a bad frozen shoulder episode a little while ago, no doubt as a result.

Did several things to try and sort it. So although it did get better I don’t know what did it. Maybe nothing other than time and the bodies own self healing ?
 
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