CNW electric starter, what other upgrades are needed.

Htown,
I would also change the main seal on the motor if it shows any sign of leaking.
Mike
From my limited experience - change it anyway. Mine was showing no signs of a leak prior to changing the chain and sprockets for the CNW belt. Perhaps that movement was enough to make it want to let go.
easy to change while it’s apart and a pita to have to strip it all down again.

edited late to add - my engine of 11000 miles had never been opened in its 47 years and the old original seal was old and deserved to be changed out of respect.
 
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Follow the kit instructions, it comes with the crank seal, the clutch rod seal and an extra steel clutch plate. You'll need the Barnett clutch pack and an air filter, cNw sells a K&N that fits nicely. There are only about (2) pieces you will use from your current set up and these are clearly covered in the instructions. I had a 3 phase alternator & regulator laying around so I put it on. My friend did the conversion and used his stock alternator without any problem so I'd try it that way first, you can always upgrade later if you like. You'll also need some medium strength Blue loctite and some gasket sealer but these are spelled out in the instructions. I was amazed at how complete the kit is, Matt literally thought about everything
 
Follow the kit instructions, it comes with the crank seal, the clutch rod seal and an extra steel clutch plate. You'll need the Barnett clutch pack and an air filter, cNw sells a K&N that fits nicely. There are only about (2) pieces you will use from your current set up and these are clearly covered in the instructions. I had a 3 phase alternator & regulator laying around so I put it on. My friend did the conversion and used his stock alternator without any problem so I'd try it that way first, you can always upgrade later if you like. You'll also need some medium strength Blue loctite and some gasket sealer but these are spelled out in the instructions. I was amazed at how complete the kit is, Matt literally thought about everything
cNw can no longer get the K&N special filter they designed. Last I talked to Matt he was working with another vendor on an air filter but I haven't heard if that came to be yet. So, you should ask about the air filter.
 
Dealt with Matt today . On the electric start kit I bought for my project .
i guess I ordered something wrong .
explained to him what was going on , he said he would send what I needed to correct problem .
I said visa ok .. his reply
no , I will send the kit part tomorrow with a check , the bewpart was cheaper and I was also getting a refund.
then he said send the other part back when you can .
BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE EVER .
nice to deal with him , instead of so many other shit companies I have come across .
 
Dealt with Matt today . On the electric start kit I bought for my project .
i guess I ordered something wrong .
explained to him what was going on , he said he would send what I needed to correct problem .
I said visa ok .. his reply
no , I will send the kit part tomorrow with a check , the bewpart was cheaper and I was also getting a refund.
then he said send the other part back when you can .
BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE EVER .
nice to deal with him , instead of so many other shit companies I have come across .
Matt is a pleasure to deal with and stands by everything he sells.
Mike Yingling
 
I just ordered a cNw e starter kit. I was curious how some of you who have it wired up the ignition switch and starter button. My bike is a Mk2a with the black air box, battery tray combo. I have already purchased some brackets from Norvil to hold up the battery tray and locate the ignition switch in the same area when the air box is gone. I have read here that the kit is very complete, so maybe that is all covered in the instructions? Thanks in advance for any feedback or hints.
 
I just ordered a cNw e starter kit. I was curious how some of you who have it wired up the ignition switch and starter button. My bike is a Mk2a with the black air box, battery tray combo. I have already purchased some brackets from Norvil to hold up the battery tray and locate the ignition switch in the same area when the air box is gone. I have read here that the kit is very complete, so maybe that is all covered in the instructions? Thanks in advance for any feedback or hints.
Yes, covered well in the instructions.

Some homework for you to read/watch before your install that I found helpful.


If you want to use your stock switch’s, that is covered well by Grant Tiller

 
Yes, covered well in the instructions.

Some homework for you to read/watch before your install that I found helpful.


If you want to use your stock switch’s, that is covered well by Grant Tiller

Thank you. Matt is extremely helpful with any question I ask, whether about this or anything else. I just know that many here are innovative and will have good suggestions, also.
 
Hi Guys I am late to this, but first of all I suggest you need to do your homework, I have just been through this as I had a Mk2A and a bung Knee which way did I go, from previous racing experience I had no confidence in belt primaries nor do I like Lithium batteries [I don't need a hot arse]. As I had looked into freight and purchasing costs I decided it was cheaper to sell my Mk2A and buy a dismantled Mk3. I updated the starter motor, as I didn't have the zeners I fitted a Trispark Mosfet Reg/rec which is a "shunt type i.e. once the battery is fully charged it shorts the stator and as in my country, I do not need to day ride with lights on and I rarely ride at night I chose to stay with the 180 watt single stage stator which is less stressed.
 
Hi Guys I am late to this, but first of all I suggest you need to do your homework, I have just been through this as I had a Mk2A and a bung Knee which way did I go, from previous racing experience I had no confidence in belt primaries nor do I like Lithium batteries [I don't need a hot arse]. As I had looked into freight and purchasing costs I decided it was cheaper to sell my Mk2A and buy a dismantled Mk3. I updated the starter motor, as I didn't have the zeners I fitted a Trispark Mosfet Reg/rec which is a "shunt type i.e. once the battery is fully charged it shorts the stator and as in my country, I do not need to day ride with lights on and I rarely ride at night I chose to stay with the 180 watt single stage stator which is less stressed.

Question: “what else do I need to make my E start kit work”?

Answer: “sell your bike and buy something else” o_O
 
I have had mine to long to do that, I know every bit of my Norton and all history from new, not to many can make that claim, one and only owner.
 
I have had mine to long to do that, I know every bit of my Norton and all history from new, not to many can make that claim, one and only owner.
I agree and think that for most people it’s not the most desirable option IMHO.
 
As I had looked into freight and purchasing costs I decided it was cheaper to sell my Mk2A and buy a dismantled Mk3.
Extracts of a diary belongs in a thread of its own. I won't rub the salt in. You are not the first person to derail in a discussion.

- Knut
 
Just for clarification the cNw kit does include the crank seal and the clutch rod seal. However, it does not include the small profile air cleaner (which is available from cNw, but is no longer K&N) or the Barnet clutch pack, these will need to be purchased. The only other changes I did was to add a three-phase alternator. Unless it has already been changed, I would recommend replacing the wiring harness.
 
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cNw can no longer get the K&N special filter they designed. Last I talked to Matt he was working with another vendor on an air filter but I haven't heard if that came to be yet. So, you should ask about the air filter.
I got mine from BCS that looks and fits exactly like the K&N one awhile ago.....for twin Amal's
 
Would like to know what batteries 750 owners are using with their starters? I'm think of a Li-Fe in a YB14L case.
 
Just for clarification the cNw kit does include the crank seal and the clutch rod seal. However, it does not include the small profile air cleaner (which is available from cNw, but is no longer K&N) or the Barnet clutch pack, these will need to be purchased. The only other changes I did was to add a three-phase alternator. Unless it has already been changed, I would recommend replacing the wiring harness.
drp,
I don’t know why you want to replace the wiring harness unless it has been butchered up at some point in its life. I installed the CNW kit and converted to 3-phase system with LI battery and didn’t have to rewire the rest of the bike.Just my 2 cents.
Mike
 
Would like to know what batteries 750 owners are using with their starters? I'm think of a Li-Fe in a YB14L case.
Yak,
I am using the Shorai LFX21A6-BS12.It has been in there for over 3 years with no problems.3-phase system.
Mike
 
Would like to know what batteries 750 owners are using with their starters? I'm think of a Li-Fe in a YB14L case.
When I install for others I recommend the LFX18L1-BS12 (270 CCA) rather than the LFX14L1-BS12 (210CA), but I'm sure the LFX14L1-BS12 will reliably start the bike. IMHO, the LFX21L1-BS12 is overkill.

Not knowing which battery you're considering in the YB14L case means I can't say much. I guess as long as Lithium Iron and CCA of 200 or more it should work. Just be sure the terminals are up to having the thick cables attached.

Not sure where to buy now. I was buying them form Amazon but their price is through the roof now and cNw is out of stock. I'm looking for one right now myself.
 
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