CNW electric starter, what other upgrades are needed.

htown16

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Considering adding the electric start to my 74 850. Has Pazon Surefire ignition and oem single phase alternator, single phase 120W podtronics, motobatt MB9U. I'm not trying to cheap out but don't want to spend on stuff I don't need.
 
Depending on the aircleaner you have fitted you may need to change it. You cannot retain the original aircleaner because there is not enough room. You should probably also take the opportunity to clean up your wiring if necessary.
 
Question was, will this ignition system work, bigger alternator, if so what, best rectifier to use, best battery ect. In other words what beyond the cost of the e-start kit do I need to budget for. It does already have a K&N airfilter.
 
Air cleaner and battery. 11AH is probably OK to start with but go better when it dies. cNw sells three Lithium batteries recommend for the kit - I use the middle one: cNw part # 0701-11 BTW, AGM 11ah is not the same as Lithium 11ah. You have 140CCA and the 11ah Lithium has 270.
 
I‘d upgrade the charging too, otherwise on short and / or low speed rides you might not charge the battery enough to compensate for what it uses to start the engine.

Check your ign has anti back fire protection. Tri Spark does, and this is what Matt uses.

Whilst you have everything down that far you should treat yourself to a new Barnet clutch pack too, rather than put heavy oily old stuff back into that nice, clean, dry primary. This alone may transform your ride!

Also a good time to look at a gearbox mainshaft oil seal as you’ll be running a dry clutch.

Some wiring is involved obviously, therefore if your wiring is not already tip-top it would be wise (and kinda inevitable) to invest some time in ensuring all is well in this regard.

Final tip from me is: read the instructions carefully.
Read them before doing the job.
Read them whilst laying out all the parts so you are really familiar with the parts, and the sequence of assembly, etc.
And read them whislt doing the job.
And TAKE YOUR TIME, pause at each step and check the instructions again.
The instructions are actually really good, clearly written with the benefit of experience gained from fitting many kits.
Rushing and skipping is your primary enemy here.
 
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I have recently done the same. New CNW starter, which comes with a nice new clutch pack. I already had a sparkling new wiring harness and Podtronics box the 120w alternator is still stock. To this I added the top notch Shorai battery that Matt recommends and the modded air filter to replace the plastic box. I also added his twin outlet HT coil which looks better. i Know I fitted a clutch rod seal, but I can’t recall if it was from Matt.
 
I have recently done the same. New CNW starter, which comes with a nice new clutch pack. I already had a sparkling new wiring harness and Podtronics box the 120w alternator is still stock. To this I added the top notch Shorai battery that Matt recommends and the modded air filter to replace the plastic box. I also added his twin outlet HT coil which looks better. i Know I fitted a clutch rod seal, but I can’t recall if it was from Matt.
Pretty sure you have to add the clutch pack, don’t think it’s a standard part of the kit.
 
I‘d upgrade the charging too, otherwise on short and / or low speed rides you might not charge the battery enough to compensate for what it uses to start the engine.

Check your ign has anti back fire protection. Tri Spark does, and this is what Matt uses.

Whilst you have everything down that far you should treat yourself to a new Barnet clutch pack too, rather than put heavy oily old stuff back into that nice, clean, dry primary. This alone may transform your ride!

Also a good time to look at a gearbox mainshaft oil seal as you’ll be running a dry clutch.

Some wiring is involved obviously, therefore if your wiring is not already tip-top it would be wise (and kinda inevitable) to invest some time in ensuring all is well in this regard.

Final tip from me is: read the instructions carefully.
Read them before doing the job.
Read them whilst laying out all the parts so you are really familiar with the parts, and the sequence of assembly, etc.
And read them whislt doing the job.
And TAKE YOUR TIME, pause at each step and check the instructions again.
The instructions are actually really good, clearly written with the benefit of experience gained from fitting many kits.
Rushing and skipping is your primary enemy here.
Does it need anti backfire on the ignition with the cnw kit?
 
I‘d upgrade the charging too, otherwise on short and / or low speed rides you might not charge the battery enough to compensate for what it uses to start the engine.

Check your ign has anti back fire protection. Tri Spark does, and this is what Matt uses.

Whilst you have everything down that far you should treat yourself to a new Barnet clutch pack too, rather than put heavy oily old stuff back into that nice, clean, dry primary. This alone may transform your ride!

Also a good time to look at a gearbox mainshaft oil seal as you’ll be running a dry clutch.

Some wiring is involved obviously, therefore if your wiring is not already tip-top it would be wise (and kinda inevitable) to invest some time in ensuring all is well in this regard.

Final tip from me is: read the instructions carefully.
Read them before doing the job.
Read them whilst laying out all the parts so you are really familiar with the parts, and the sequence of assembly, etc.
And read them whislt doing the job.
And TAKE YOUR TIME, pause at each step and check the instructions again.
The instructions are actually really good, clearly written with the benefit of experience gained from fitting many kits.
Rushing and skipping is your primary enemy here.
All agreed. If updating charging go 3-phase and Tri-Spark MOSFET - single-phase high output does little to help. I use Tri-Spark ignition and regulators exclusively but since I sell Tri-Spark and cNw I don't openly push them. The cNw starter system usually is fine with backfires, but backfires are generally bad so eliminating them is good. The Barnet clutch pack from cNw is the one you want - you'll love the lightness of the clutch pull.

The instructions and kit completeness are fantastic. When installing the first kit, I thought I saw a better way related to a couple of wiring steps - caused me to uninstalled half the kit to go back and di it right - follow the steps and you'll have no trouble!
 
Considering adding the electric start to my 74 850. Has Pazon Surefire ignition and oem single phase alternator, single phase 120W podtronics, motobatt MB9U. I'm not trying to cheap out but don't want to spend on stuff I don't need.
I have had the CNW starter for 2 years, about 20000 miles. I have the stock alternator with Podtronics regulator and run the same battery as in my 1999 Sportster and 1998 Dynaglide. The CNW starter is the same as the Harley starter. I have had zero problems. Unless you are looking for weight saving a high tech battery is an unnecessary expense
 
You don't "need" a new clutch pack, but it is recommended. CNW tells you not to use bronze clutch plates.
 
Can't see how installing an E-start requires any other changes. I installed an Alton and didn't make any other changes to the bike at that time. I made changes earlier/later but they were unrelated to installing an E-start. Obviously, as others have pointed out, if the bike needs other work anyway, it's a good time to do it. But I ran the Alton with the OEM charging system (rectifier/Zener) with a Shorai battery that I had installed two year prior to the E-start. I later went to a Podtroncs regulator based on posts here. That resulted in a "modern system"...that produced a LOWER battery charging voltage than the Rectifier/Zener. Yes, based on voltage readings at the battery, the antique OEM charging system is better. ;)

IOW, unless the bike needs other work or you specifically want to make some changes, just install the CNW starter per their instructions.
 
If you have bronze clutch plates you must change plates, as they are not compatible with the CNW hard anodized clutch basket. This is just one difference to the Alton.
 
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