Clutch rod and norvil seal

I seem to remember some while ago someone on these pages of much wisdom ! That somebody fitted as I did a Norvil clutch rod seal in an attempt to prevent the oil from the gearbox finding its way onto the clutch. I understand that in normal circustances this isn't to much of an issue but if you do as I do use a Norman White belt drive it's not helpful to have oil between the plates as it's supposed to be dry,whoever it was had extended the clutch rod using silver steel.......what I would like to know is by how much and whether it was sucsessul...... :?: Thanks in anticipation..

Hi - I fitted a seal on my bike & the rod needed no adjustment. The seal is meant to be a direct fit with no modifications.

Have you tried installation yet?

Yes but there is no room for adjustment, the Norman White clutch has an extra plate.....so I have removed the rod seal but I am getting ep90 seeping onto the plates and this is causing them to stick and not disengage.....

Hi again - I am not familar with that clutch. I installed stock Norton fiber plates & I didn't experance your situation... Clutch works good though.

Dyno Dave Clutch Seal

I fitted a Dyno-Dave (Dave Comau) clutch rod seal to my 850Mk11. I have had no clutch slipping or dragging problems since. I do run a std primary chain and havn't checked to see if there is oil still seeping through to a smaller degree.
But I recomend the seal and it is easy to install comes complete with installation instructions and measurements needed for fitting.

If you say you can't fit the Comeau seal have you thought about grooving the pushrod and installing an 'O' ring? I crudely cut a shallow groove with a hacksaw blade several yrs ago and fitted a ring that looked about right, tight in the groove and just a bit larger OD than the rod. It's about 1" in from the mainshaft end and 030" wide and 040" deep. I didn't expect it to last but have about 12000 miles on it now. It works well but there is a little oil coming up between mainshaft and sleeve gear. That goes down the back and gets flung out away from the clutch plates.

T'was I - I think?
I made my own seal years ago and instead of an O ring I used a lip seal. The lip seal was 5mm thick so I extended the pushrod by 5mm.
The seal and pushrod were fitted 20,000 miles ago at least and so for without a problem.
If you do make your own pushrod don't forget the ends will need hardened. Heat cherry red and quench in salty water.

The next time I take the gearbox to bits I'm going to replace the mainshaft ball bearing with a sealed type and remove the inner seal plate. That should prevent the gear oil flooding through the bearing and over the pushrod.

Cash

attention of dyno Dave

re my problematic clutch all now appears to ok I have measured the clutch rod and its the correct length for the commando. I have stripped the clutch and using the web address you posted me checked the measurments and stack height of the clutch twas then I noticed that there was one too many of the plain plates 5 instead of four, this I think has reduced the amount of lift and separation plus there was evidence of gearbox oil between the plates which probably compounded the problem. Anyway the clutch has been reassembled with the oil seal, and adjusted correctly. The gear changes are smoother and the bike is not so fierce on the uptake when pulling away......many thanks for your help..

I found smearing high temp thick grease on the clutch pushrod inserted into the mainshaft on all my Pommie bikes seemed to keep the gear oil out, never had a problem with the Commando.

Mick