Clutch adjustment concern

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Semitone

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Hello folks. I’m at the final stages of an overhaul of my 1973 850. I had the clutch apart for inspection and everything looked good, so I just reassembled it. Clutch (Barnett) action seems stiffer than I remembered, but maybe that’s just my left hand gone weak having not ridden it in several years! Also, to take up cable slack on the correct new clutch cable, i’m at the very end of the adjuster at the clutch lever. I put the bike on center stand on a board so that rear wheel is off the ground. I wanted to check where my clutch engagement was so I put it in first gear and pulled in the clutch. Off the bat, I was not able to rotate the wheel. I then turned the clutch rod adjuster bolt in a few turns, and was then able to rotate the wheel. Obviously I can’t leave the adjuster bolt pressed against the rod, so I’m at a bit of a loss as to what happened during reassembly. I’d post a pic of the bike, but it’s not that obvious to me how to do this. Any thoughts much appreciated. Paul
 
So,.. IF,... the clutch cable adjustment used to be well within the adjuster limits before you serviced the clutch, but NOW it's changed and the adjuster is at it's limit for the clutch to engage (and the lever is all of a sudden a heavier pull) Then, the clutch rod actuator that the ball end of the cable engages with inside the gearbox shell, has probably dropped out of it's correct alignment on reassembly....
 
o0norton0o said:
So,.. IF,... the clutch cable adjustment used to be well within the adjuster limits before you serviced the clutch, but NOW it's changed and the adjuster is at it's limit for the clutch to engage (and the lever is all of a sudden a heavier pull) Then, the clutch rod actuator that the ball end of the cable engages with inside the gearbox shell, has probably dropped out of it's correct alignment on reassembly....
Click to expand...
I was under the impression that rod was either engaged or not engaged, not something in between. Would be great if that’s the issue. I’ll check. Thank you o0norton0o
 
It's not the rod that gets misaligned. It's the weird shaped actuator with the "forked end" where the cable end seats. It sits in the slot in the shaft. It's got this curved shape on one edge that engages the ball when the clutch cable is pulled, and that edge pushes the clutch rod... (as I recall, some people have substituted the atlas motorcycle part in it's place because the curved edge shape is different than the commando version and it gives an easier pull)

but anyway, that actuator piece can drop out of alignment and it makes the clutch pull wrong... The fact that it almost works is actually a worse result than if it didn't work at all because it fools some people who've never seen it before into thinking they did something else to screw up their clutch pack
 
o0norton0o said:
It's not the rod that gets misaligned. It's the weird shaped actuator with the "forked end" where the cable end seats. It sits in the slot in the shaft. It's got this curved shape on one edge that engages the ball when the clutch cable is pulled, and that edge pushes the clutch rod... (as I recall, some people have substituted the atlas motorcycle part in it's place because the curved edge shape is different than the commando version and it gives an easier pull)

but anyway, that actuator piece can drop out of alignment and it makes the clutch pull wrong... The fact that it almost works is actually a worse result than if it didn't work at all because it fools some people who've never seen it before into thinking they did something else to screw up their clutch pack
Click to expand...
Been there, done that.
 
o0norton0o said:
It's not the rod that gets misaligned. It's the weird shaped actuator with the "forked end" where the cable end seats. It sits in the slot in the shaft. It's got this curved shape on one edge that engages the ball when the clutch cable is pulled, and that edge pushes the clutch rod... (as I recall, some people have substituted the atlas motorcycle part in it's place because the curved edge shape is different than the commando version and it gives an easier pull)

but anyway, that actuator piece can drop out of alignment and it makes the clutch pull wrong... The fact that it almost works is actually a worse result than if it didn't work at all because it fools some people who've never seen it before into thinking they did something else to screw up their clutch pack
Click to expand...
This would explain the harder pull as well. Going to check it out this eve. Tx again.
 
Semitone said:
Hello folks. I’m at the final stages of an overhaul of my 1973 850. I had the clutch apart for inspection and everything looked good, so I just reassembled it. Clutch (Barnett) action seems stiffer than I remembered, but maybe that’s just my left hand gone weak having not ridden it in several years! Also, to take up cable slack on the correct new clutch cable, i’m at the very end of the adjuster at the clutch lever. I put the bike on center stand on a board so that rear wheel is off the ground. I wanted to check where my clutch engagement was so I put it in first gear and pulled in the clutch. Off the bat, I was not able to rotate the wheel. I then turned the clutch rod adjuster bolt in a few turns, and was then able to rotate the wheel. Obviously I can’t leave the adjuster bolt pressed against the rod, so I’m at a bit of a loss as to what happened during reassembly. I’d post a pic of the bike, but it’s not that obvious to me how to do this. Any thoughts much appreciated. Paul
Click to expand...
If you can get your hands on Mick Hemmings’ gearbox DVD it will explain how to do initial setup of clutch actuator.
 
Did you set the adjuster screw and lock nut through the opening in the primary case as per workshop spec, with lever end adjuster slack or mid point?
 
Semitone said:
Ahh, so you ran into this too?
Click to expand...
Ya, probably 4 out of every 5 gearboxes I do!

Open the inspection hole in the gearbox outer cover, the end of the mechanism where the cable is attached should be in easy view near the bottom right of the hole. If it comes out of place the whole back end drops down. Wiggle, wiggle, wiggle and get it back into place. Then with the cable fully slack at the handlebar, turn the clutch adjuster in until you feel it touch the rod. Back off 1/2 turn and go back to the other side and you should be able to move the lever up and down a little.

If so, it's in place and you can follow the book which says turn the adjuster in until it touches and the back off 1 turn (IMHO, 1/2 turn is better). Only then do you adjust the slack at the handlebar.

From the workshop manual (click to see big):



Clutch adjustment concern
 
Tornado said:
Did you set the adjuster screw and lock nut through the opening in the primary case as per workshop spec, with lever end adjuster slack or mid point?
Click to expand...
I actually had the primary cover off because I disassembled the clutch pack to make sure everything was kosher!
 
So I finally got to inspect the the clutch actuator lever this eve. It had lifted out of position, whereby the semi circular edge was no longer pressed against the bearing. Basically what you guys were saying. In my a attempt to reposition it, I found another position that looked right at first, but when you pull clutch, the actuator moves at almost 60 degrees off center of the clutch cable angle. Barely moved the clutch rod at all. Finally got it correct position. I knew it was right because cable adjuster at the lever was now about in the middle, clutch was easier to pull and most importantly, clutch was fully disengaged when lever was pulled in! I did not do my do diligence when initially putting the clutch back together. I thought if you pull the clutch and it moved the rod, that was it. There are actually two ways to do it wrong. Thank you all very much for the quick and salient advice. Very much appreciated. -Paul

PS, can anyone tell me how to post a pic from my computer?!
 
Semitone said:
So I finally got to inspect the the clutch actuator lever this eve. It had lifted out of position, whereby the semi circular edge was no longer pressed against the bearing. Basically what you guys were saying. In my a attempt to reposition it, I found another position that looked right at first, but when you pull clutch, the actuator moves at almost 60 degrees off center of the clutch cable angle. Barely moved the clutch rod at all. Finally got it correct position. I knew it was right because cable adjuster at the lever was now about in the middle, clutch was easier to pull and most importantly, clutch was fully disengaged when lever was pulled in! I did not do my do diligence when initially putting the clutch back together. I thought if you pull the clutch and it moved the rod, that was it. There are actually two ways to do it wrong. Thank you all very much for the quick and salient advice. Very much appreciated. -Paul

PS, can anyone tell me how to post a pic from my computer?!
Click to expand...
If you upgrade to VIP member youcan attach images directly to posts. If not vip, you must first upload to an image hosting site, then put a link to that image location here.
 
Here is my Commando. Almost done. I just spend the last month painting the tank and covers. Other than some of the basic common mods, (isolatics, single carb, head steady) and a beehive tail light, I was intent on keeping it stock, including the paint. When I acquired the bike 30 years ago, it was flat black, but I saw remnants of the original red metallic under the tank. I was torn between returning it to red or going with the venerable black and gold scheme. Well, I blew the whole originality thing out of the water when I saw a pic on the web of a commando with this color combo! When I got quotes of $2000 or more to have it painted, I decided to do it myself. Never attempted this before and the process shaved years off my life, but it’s presentable and now I have great respect for custom painters and understand the money they charge!
 

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Semitone said:
Here is my Commando. Almost done. I just spend the last month painting the tank and covers. Other than some of the basic common mods, (isolatics, single carb, head steady) and a beehive tail light, I was intent on keeping it stock, including the paint. When I acquired the bike 30 years ago, it was flat black, but I saw remnants of the original red metallic under the tank. I was torn between returning it to red or going with the venerable black and gold scheme. Well, I blew the whole originality thing out of the water when I saw a pic on the web of a commando with this color combo! When I got quotes of $2000 or more to have it painted, I decided to do it myself. Never attempted this before and the process shaved years off my life, but it’s presentable and now I have great respect for custom painters and understand the money they charge!
Click to expand...
Very nice - well done!
 

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