Clutch adjustment

Trying to adjust my clutch & cable. With the handlebar lever adjuster completely undone, I.E. no tension at all in the cable, I screw in the adjuster in the diaphragm spring centre till it just starts to register on the push rod, and back off 1/3, 1/2 and even a whole turn.
The result is the forked cable end of the lever i9n the outer cover is actually touching the inside of the cover.
I have to back it right off to lift the lever forward in order to lift and seat the cable nipple in the fork.
There is so much free play in the cable that with the handlebar cable adjuster fully extended it only just lifts enough to change gear.
I have replaced/tried different cable, central bush in roller, primary end adjuster all to no avail.
I have checked the lever hasn't dropped down numerous times, cable run, pushrod length, clutch stack height and all to no avail.
What am I missing?
Bike is 850 MK3 with 5 speed Quaife and standard primary.
all theories and advice welcome as it is taking to sparkle of the riding pleasure round town.

Was this working well previously and has starting behaving badly recently?

When I did my mkII tranny last year (to replace layshaft bearing) I discovered the fork-lifter was badly worn where it contacted the roller ball. I believe Mick Hemmings Gearbox Rebuild DVD mentions there being more than one type of lifter made for our bikes, with slightly different dimensions giving different leverage etc. Since you have a 5 speed quaife you might need a different lifter? In that same DVD he mentions and example of a pushrod becoming self-welded to the ball due to improper cable adjustment.

look at # 36 and 37 i have seen #37 go flat on one side but an issue with either will let the lever move to far outward also look at the whole mechanism to make sure all is OK and tight.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/208/gearbox-outer-cover-kickstart-gearshift-lever

Did the cluch operate correctly before you attempted to adjust .
Is this ball correctly locating in the clutch operating lever.
Is the clutch operating body fully located to the inner cover and is the lockring fully tightened.
Is the bearing ball the correct 1/2 inch in diameter?
Is the clutch operating lever a Commando component and not from a pre-Commando or AJS/Matchless outer gearbox cover.
Is the clutch cable a standard Norton component ,what is the free length of the inner cable .

everything has been in bike for 15+ years, the only change was clutch cable, but the problem has been there to a greater or lesser degree for a long time. I thought it may be the pushrod length, but I checked that and was standard. I think the cable is to a degree irrelevant in this issue as the clutch adjuster on spring is pushing the actuating lever in outer cover so far that it is coliding with said gearbox outer cover. The Quaife is only cluster and strengthened shell, rest is standard Norton MK3 components. I have a seal on mainshaft clutch end to prevent gearbox oil migrating into primary, and didnt look like it was interfering with anything, but perhaps I need to remove as a elimination...

How much clutch lift (measured at the diaphragm spring centre)?
How much cable movement (at the handlebar lever)?

Sounds like the "stickout" is too long. In other words, the length of the inner cable (wire) is too long or the conduit is too short.

Do you have a non-standard clutch lever? Different pivot points in the lever will affect how much pull you get on the cable.

I installed a Quaife 5 speed gear set into a '71 back in the day with, essentially, no issues. I like both LAB's and HRD's suggestions and would add that you insure that the 04-0059 Clutch Release Body is securely fastened by the 04-0003 Clutch Release Body Locking Ring, your main shaft should not demonstrate any free movement when properly installed.

Additionally, it would help to know how much longer the the clutch cable inner is than the sheath that it runs in. Lastly the center to center distance between the clutch lever pivot and the drum end of the cable, as mentioned above can make a big difference in the amount of free play. 7/8" and 1" were common in many Brit bikes, the real experts should know if this is a possible error on a Commando of your motorcycle.

Good question, should give us all (most of the members) an opportunity to learn something new.

Best

RoadScholar said:

Lastly the center to center distance between the clutch lever pivot and the drum end of the cable, as mentioned above can make a big difference in the amount of free play. 7/8" and 1" were common in many Brit bikes,

Click to expand...

1 1/16" for the Mk3.

" I think the cable is to a degree irrelevant in this issue as the clutch adjuster on spring is pushing the actuating lever in outer cover so far that it is coliding with said gearbox outer cover. " johnny Lagdon, Saturday at 6:08 PM

Is the sleeve -clutch op ( 04.0065 ) located within the clutch op.roller ( 04.0060 ) and is the clutch operating lever (06.0715 ) locating with said roller( 04.0060 ) and is this correctly locating with the 1/2 " ball .If all is correctly assembled then the clutch operating lever ( 06.0715 ) will not be in collision with the outer cover.If the clutch operating lever (06.0715 ) slips down from the correct position you will have a situation similar to what you have .

I have replaced sleeve (04-0065) and roller, lever and body all look good. However, I have managed to do my lower back in moving the bike the wrong way so may be a while before I can pull it apart to check everything