Re-assembling the primary side of a 1975 Commando. Is there anything that goes on the shaft before the clutch basket? A washer or shim? I am putting an extra clutch plate in to ease the clutch pull.
Thanks
Thanks
Yes, numbers 14 and 15 here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/130/clutchRe-assembling the primary side of a 1975 Commando. Is there anything that goes on the shaft before the clutch basket? A washer or shim? I am putting an extra clutch plate in to ease the clutch pull.
Thanks
Part no. 11 circlip can be easily crushed when tightening down the clutch . Don't over tighten it , less is better .Yes, numbers 14 and 15 here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/130/clutch
You could need zero to some numb ed of 16 and/or 17.
Part no. 11 circlip can be easily crushed when tightening down the clutch . Don't over tighten it , less is better .
It was reassembled with the extra clutch plate and the Dave Comeau clutch rod seal. It would only go on just over one turn so I think something extra was installed behind the basket?
If there are shims between the clutch location spacer and the clutch, don't remove them without checking the alignment between the clutch basket and front sprocket. On a standard primary, I consider the chain alignment much more important than that seal.It was reassembled with the extra clutch plate and the Dave Comeau clutch rod seal. It would only go on just over one turn so I think something extra was installed behind the basket? I am going to dis-assemble it myself soon and see what is there. I am guessing the clutch rod seal nut should screw on further?
Thanks for the information
I am putting an extra clutch plate in to ease the clutch pull.
OKYou might find one extra (plain?) plate could be too much especially if the clutch still has the original 5 bronze friction plates.
Yup , it's No . 14 .Part no. 11 circlip can be easily crushed when tightening down the clutch . Don't over tighten it , less is better .
Thanks L.A.B.Part 14 circlip.
The #58 washer doesn't allow enough thread engagement for the rod seal (if you're using the rod seal). And yeah, it grabs the tab washer, but i didn't find that to be a big deal to keep the rod seal.If there are shims between the clutch location spacer and the clutch, don't remove them without checking the alignment between the clutch basket and front sprocket. On a standard primary, I consider the chain alignment much more important than that seal.
L.A.B. provided the instructions for the seal and it gives ways to get more clearance.
If you take the basket off, double check that the clutch location spacer is installed correctly - its recess must fit over the circlip.
Some here hate the tab washer - I like it but it is imperative that #58 be used with it: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/65/chaincases-chains-sprockets-clutch-alternator The tab washer is malleable, and the nut will dig into it without #58
I sanded that bugger for like 20 mins and could never get it thin enough. Went back to the stock clip. Used loctite on the nut and didn't use a 3 ft breaking bar to torque it. Think i'm goodYup , it's No . 14 .
If you really want to get ambitious on a boring cold winter night , 06.8072 is a stronger material circlip , but you must fetter it by thinning it with abrasive paper on a flat table source . Just enough that it fits snug into the main shaft slot . Don't bend it trying .