Clutch basket

uneasy rider · Dec 3, 2023

Re-assembling the primary side of a 1975 Commando. Is there anything that goes on the shaft before the clutch basket? A washer or shim? I am putting an extra clutch plate in to ease the clutch pull.

Thanks

marshg246 · Dec 3, 2023

uneasy rider said:
Re-assembling the primary side of a 1975 Commando. Is there anything that goes on the shaft before the clutch basket? A washer or shim? I am putting an extra clutch plate in to ease the clutch pull.

Thanks

Yes, numbers 14 and 15 here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/130/clutch

You could need zero to some number of 16 and/or 17.

Torontonian · Dec 3, 2023

marshg246 said:
Yes, numbers 14 and 15 here: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/130/clutch

You could need zero to some numb ed of 16 and/or 17.

Part no. 11 circlip can be easily crushed when tightening down the clutch . Don't over tighten it , less is better .

ILLF8ED · Dec 3, 2023

Exactly. Those of us that have been doing Commandos for a bunch of years know the service manual says 70ftlbs on the clutch shaft nut. 40 ftlbs is all that is needed.

L.A.B. · Dec 4, 2023

Torontonian said:
Part no. 11 circlip can be easily crushed when tightening down the clutch . Don't over tighten it , less is better .

Part 14 circlip.

uneasy rider · Dec 4, 2023

It was reassembled with the extra clutch plate and the Dave Comeau clutch rod seal. It would only go on just over one turn so I think something extra was installed behind the basket? I am going to dis-assemble it myself soon and see what is there. I am guessing the clutch rod seal nut should screw on further?
Thanks for the information

L.A.B. · Dec 4, 2023

uneasy rider said:
It was reassembled with the extra clutch plate and the Dave Comeau clutch rod seal. It would only go on just over one turn so I think something extra was installed behind the basket?

rodseal2

marshg246 · Dec 4, 2023

uneasy rider said:
It was reassembled with the extra clutch plate and the Dave Comeau clutch rod seal. It would only go on just over one turn so I think something extra was installed behind the basket? I am going to dis-assemble it myself soon and see what is there. I am guessing the clutch rod seal nut should screw on further?
Thanks for the information

If there are shims between the clutch location spacer and the clutch, don't remove them without checking the alignment between the clutch basket and front sprocket. On a standard primary, I consider the chain alignment much more important than that seal.

L.A.B. provided the instructions for the seal and it gives ways to get more clearance.

If you take the basket off, double check that the clutch location spacer is installed correctly - its recess must fit over the circlip.

Some here hate the tab washer - I like it but it is imperative that #58 be used with it: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/65/chaincases-chains-sprockets-clutch-alternator The tab washer is malleable, and the nut will dig into it without #58

L.A.B. · Dec 4, 2023

uneasy rider said:
I am putting an extra clutch plate in to ease the clutch pull.

You might find one extra (plain?) plate could be too much especially if the clutch still has the original 5 bronze friction plates.

uneasy rider · Dec 4, 2023

L.A.B. said:
You might find one extra (plain?) plate could be too much especially if the clutch still has the original 5 bronze friction plates.

OK

DennisMo · Dec 4, 2023

I found my clutch handle hard to pull when I bought my 73.
I found the original plates worn by about 15 to 20 thou each and when I replaced them with new plates of correct thickness, the clutch was an easy pull.

Torontonian · Dec 4, 2023

Torontonian said:
Part no. 11 circlip can be easily crushed when tightening down the clutch . Don't over tighten it , less is better .

Yup , it's No . 14 .
If you really want to get ambitious on a boring cold winter night , 06.8072 is a stronger material circlip , but you must fetter it by thinning it with abrasive paper on a flat table source . Just enough that it fits snug into the main shaft slot . Don't bend it trying .

Torontonian · Dec 4, 2023

L.A.B. said:
Part 14 circlip.

Thanks L.A.B.

uneasy rider · Dec 5, 2023

OK, got a winer day project I guess. Thanks for all the information

TomU · Dec 6, 2023

marshg246 said:
If there are shims between the clutch location spacer and the clutch, don't remove them without checking the alignment between the clutch basket and front sprocket. On a standard primary, I consider the chain alignment much more important than that seal.

L.A.B. provided the instructions for the seal and it gives ways to get more clearance.

If you take the basket off, double check that the clutch location spacer is installed correctly - its recess must fit over the circlip.

Some here hate the tab washer - I like it but it is imperative that #58 be used with it: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/65/chaincases-chains-sprockets-clutch-alternator The tab washer is malleable, and the nut will dig into it without #58

The #58 washer doesn't allow enough thread engagement for the rod seal (if you're using the rod seal). And yeah, it grabs the tab washer, but i didn't find that to be a big deal to keep the rod seal.

TomU · Dec 6, 2023

Torontonian said:
Yup , it's No . 14 .
If you really want to get ambitious on a boring cold winter night , 06.8072 is a stronger material circlip , but you must fetter it by thinning it with abrasive paper on a flat table source . Just enough that it fits snug into the main shaft slot . Don't bend it trying .

I sanded that bugger for like 20 mins and could never get it thin enough. Went back to the stock clip. Used loctite on the nut and didn't use a 3 ft breaking bar to torque it. Think i'm good

Clutch basket

uneasy rider

marshg246

Torontonian

ILLF8ED

L.A.B.

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uneasy rider

L.A.B.

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marshg246

L.A.B.

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uneasy rider

DennisMo

Torontonian

Torontonian

uneasy rider

TomU

1972 Roadster

TomU

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