Clutch basket

uneasy rider

uneasy rider

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Oct 29, 2023
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Re-assembling the primary side of a 1975 Commando. Is there anything that goes on the shaft before the clutch basket? A washer or shim? I am putting an extra clutch plate in to ease the clutch pull.

Thanks
 
Exactly. Those of us that have been doing Commandos for a bunch of years know the service manual says 70ftlbs on the clutch shaft nut. 40 ftlbs is all that is needed.
 
It was reassembled with the extra clutch plate and the Dave Comeau clutch rod seal. It would only go on just over one turn so I think something extra was installed behind the basket? I am going to dis-assemble it myself soon and see what is there. I am guessing the clutch rod seal nut should screw on further?
Thanks for the information
 
uneasy rider said:
It was reassembled with the extra clutch plate and the Dave Comeau clutch rod seal. It would only go on just over one turn so I think something extra was installed behind the basket? I am going to dis-assemble it myself soon and see what is there. I am guessing the clutch rod seal nut should screw on further?
Thanks for the information
Click to expand...
If there are shims between the clutch location spacer and the clutch, don't remove them without checking the alignment between the clutch basket and front sprocket. On a standard primary, I consider the chain alignment much more important than that seal.

L.A.B. provided the instructions for the seal and it gives ways to get more clearance.

If you take the basket off, double check that the clutch location spacer is installed correctly - its recess must fit over the circlip.

Some here hate the tab washer - I like it but it is imperative that #58 be used with it: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/65/chaincases-chains-sprockets-clutch-alternator The tab washer is malleable, and the nut will dig into it without #58
 
I found my clutch handle hard to pull when I bought my 73.
I found the original plates worn by about 15 to 20 thou each and when I replaced them with new plates of correct thickness, the clutch was an easy pull.
 
Torontonian said:
Part no. 11 circlip can be easily crushed when tightening down the clutch . Don't over tighten it , less is better .
Click to expand...
Yup , it's No . 14 .
If you really want to get ambitious on a boring cold winter night , 06.8072 is a stronger material circlip , but you must fetter it by thinning it with abrasive paper on a flat table source . Just enough that it fits snug into the main shaft slot . Don't bend it trying .
 
marshg246 said:
If there are shims between the clutch location spacer and the clutch, don't remove them without checking the alignment between the clutch basket and front sprocket. On a standard primary, I consider the chain alignment much more important than that seal.

L.A.B. provided the instructions for the seal and it gives ways to get more clearance.

If you take the basket off, double check that the clutch location spacer is installed correctly - its recess must fit over the circlip.

Some here hate the tab washer - I like it but it is imperative that #58 be used with it: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/65/chaincases-chains-sprockets-clutch-alternator The tab washer is malleable, and the nut will dig into it without #58
Click to expand...
The #58 washer doesn't allow enough thread engagement for the rod seal (if you're using the rod seal). And yeah, it grabs the tab washer, but i didn't find that to be a big deal to keep the rod seal.
 
Torontonian said:
Yup , it's No . 14 .
If you really want to get ambitious on a boring cold winter night , 06.8072 is a stronger material circlip , but you must fetter it by thinning it with abrasive paper on a flat table source . Just enough that it fits snug into the main shaft slot . Don't bend it trying .
Click to expand...
I sanded that bugger for like 20 mins and could never get it thin enough. Went back to the stock clip. Used loctite on the nut and didn't use a 3 ft breaking bar to torque it. Think i'm good 🤔
 
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