Clip-on handlebars size?

Hello all,

I'd rather add this question to an old thread about clip-ons but every thread I have found is so old that I am no longer able to reply to them. So I plan to install clip-ons onto my Commando 750 and I would like to try the emgo brand ones. I THINK I should order the 35mm ones but I read a few threads on here making me think otherwise. I would/should measure the upper fork tubes on my bike to be sure, but my poor excuse is that the bike is in storage and I'll have to take the top yoke and headlamp mounting brackets off to measure. I'm sure that simple task will take me at least an hour since I'm lacking both confidence and probably tools. I swear I have a zillion wrenches/sockets but nothing ever seems to fit. That and I have a hell of a time differentiating between the millimeter lines on my vernier caliper.

Has anyone here used emgo clip-ons? If so, then do you know which size they are? All friendly thoughts are appreciated. My gut says 35mm but I read somewhere about a person needed brass shim stock to hold them in place.

Thank you!

Beaneater said:

I would/should measure the upper fork tubes on my bike to be sure, but my poor excuse is that the bike is in storage and I'll have to take the top yoke and headlamp mounting brackets off to measure.

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The stanchion diameter is 34.518/34.410mm O/D, as stated in the workshop manual. The diameter is the same below the lower yoke, so there shouldn't be any need to strip the upper yoke and brackets to measure.

L.A.B. said:

The stanchion diameter is 34.518/34.410mm O/D, as stated in the workshop manual. The diameter is the same below the lower yoke, so there shouldn't be any need to strip the upper yoke and brackets to measure.

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Thank you very much. I'm all set now. As soon as I posted this thread I started thinking what you just said, and how I'll have to take the yoke off anyway to install them. I was typing faster than thinking.

Beaneater said:

Thank you very much. I'm all set now. As soon as I posted this thread I started thinking what you just said, and how I'll have to take the yoke off anyway to install them. I was typing faster than thinki

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What year is your 750?
Don't forget the disc type yokes are upside down
Meaning the stem nut is under the lower yoke
The easiest way to fit clipons is to drop the stanchions until you can turn the top yoke enough to pull the headlight brackets off
Then put your clipons on and whatever new headlight brackets you prefer
And slide the stanchions back up into the top yoke
Keep all the parts ready to change back when you're back tells you too

baz said:

What year is your 750?
Don't forget the disc type yokes are upside down
Meaning the stem nut is under the lower yoke
The easiest way to fit clipons is to drop the stanchions until you can turn the top yoke enough to pull the headlight brackets off
Then put your clipons on and whatever new headlight brackets you prefer
And slide the stanchions back up into the top yoke
Keep all the parts ready to change back when you're back tells you too

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I got me a '71 with them fancy drum brakes! Thanks very much for your help. The ape hangers currently on the bike don't match well with the NYC Norton rearsets.

Beaneater said:

I got me a '71 with them fancy drum brakes! Thanks very much for your help. The ape hangers currently on the bike don't match well with the NYC Norton rearsets.

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I'm not familiar with the drum front end
But I believe it has a conventional top yoke
So you can probably just remove the top yoke to fit the clipons
Take care breaking the taper where the top yoke joins the stanchions

Tank clearance is usually a problem when fitting clipons to a road bike, and altering the stops to reduce the lock might not be easy.

Good point above. Cross-over or fixed to the front of the clamp type bars will help with clearance of the bar ends to the tank. See link of type I’m talking about. Straight out from the side of the clamp will hit the tank unless the tank has reliefs or the bars are mounted way out and then look awkward and not swept back in appearance.

Or you could go the easy route and use Ace bars?

Hello all,

Having a bit of trouble sliding the fork tube back up into the top yoke and securing it. I'm unable to screw the big cap onto the threaded rod inside the fork tube. I can only screw it on about 2 full turns before it starts to bind, and the rod itself starts turning. I tried applying downward pressure onto that little ring above the spring but unfortunately that didn't help stop the rod from spinning. Is there a way to hold something on the smooth part of the rod, between the spring coils? I supposed I could use narrow pliers to hold the threaded part of the rod but I'd likely damage the threads. Should the rod itself be secured somehow down in the fork to prevent it from spinning? I'm using the old Norton service guide, which has been helpful, but it doesn't mention this problem. Please provide any advice/suggestions.

I should probably get one of those thread chaser tools and clean up the threads but I'm hesitant to because I've never used one before and I'm afraid I may make it worse.

It may be a good idea for me to make a new thread about this, but I'll hold off for a moment.

Thank you all very much.

Beaneater said:

Should the rod itself be secured somehow down in the fork to prevent it from spinning?

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No, but then the cap bolt should turn freely on the damper rod thread so I'd guess the threads need cleaning up.

L.A.B. said:

No, but then the cap bolt should turn freely on the damper rod thread so I'd guess the threads need cleaning up.

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Yeah I'm sure you're right. Funny thing is that the orignal cap bolt was tough getting out of the fork tube. I needed to use a wrench the whole way and was unable to put it back on with my hand. I figured the threads in the cap bolt weren't good so I got a new one online. This new one spins into the fork tube super well but binds up on the rod. The old one spins nicely onto the rod but binds up going into the fork tube. Figures...

You need a 3/8" UNF tap to clean it.

L.A.B. said:

You need a 3/8" UNF tap to clean it.

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Right on! Thank you very much. The available knowledge in this forum is amazing. I'm attempting to work on my bike as much as possible now because I'm thinking in 10 years or so, here in the USA, there will be an even smaller amount of classic bike mechanics to do the work for me. Thanks again.

Okay so I'm looking into thread specifications and getting a bit confused. Apparently UNF means Unified Fine Pitch. Does that mean that all UNF threads on a 3/8 tap are essentially the same? https://www.machiningdoctor.com/threadinfo/?tid=39

I'd prefer to purchase a tap through a more professional grade tool distributor such as McMaster as opposed to Amazon so if anyone can recommend the proper tap for me then please do so.

Might this one work? https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/70647458

Beaneater said:

Does that mean that all UNF threads on a 3/8 tap are essentially the same?

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Yes, 3/8" UNF is 24 TPI.

Beaneater said:

Might this one work? https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/70647458

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You shouldn't need to pay anything like $113.
In the UK I could get a carbon steel tap for about £2 or £6 for high speed steel and I'm sure you can find similarly priced taps in the US.
https://www.tracytools.com/product/3-8-x-24-tpi-unf-spiral-flute-point-fluteless/

Have a look at Tommaselli clip-ons…think link here will give you an idea of price etc.
also do a size to fit Commandos.

or Laverda type adjustable Ace bars;